Please advise, Wiring on CT13 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:37 PM   #1
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Name: Diane
Trailer: Casita, previously u-haul ct13
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Please advise, Wiring on CT13

I feel very humble in asking for your advice. I know there has been much discussed on this subject. I still am at a loss as I know nothing about AC-DC wiring. I do try to do as many things as I can myself but ...Electric Stupid I have read the U Haul manual and Parts manual someone so graciously provided on this site under the Documents center. Still stupid and maybe trying to do too much. I will post some pics as everything is loose and wires are cut everywhere. I need 12 volt system working as I camp primitively. Previous owner cut out the back window and put a window airconditioning unit in. Will get a fantasitic sometime in the future instead.
1. I have bought a battery, an Optima 24 group agm
Not sure where to start. Do I need a vented battery box? Is it safe to sleep on top of it.
I will post some pics and show you what is there or not.
Attached Thumbnails
UnderBunkOne.jpg   CutWires.jpg  

BunkThree.jpg   BackofBunkOne.jpg  

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Old 02-20-2012, 07:49 PM   #2
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You need to get a fuse panel to hook to the battery, then run wires from the fuse panel to each of the lights, fans, etc. You can make one with a sheet of metal and a bunch of these.

2 Pcs Electrical Locking Nut 6 x 30mm Fuse Holder Black | eBay

or buy one all made up at a boating or camper place.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:58 PM   #3
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Get a fuse block as suggested by Thomas G. AGM batteries do not outgas so do not need a vented battery case(but still need to be strapped down).I would use stranded wire(I prefer 12awg, but some use a smaller guage), color code your work-red or black for hot and white from common.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:15 PM   #4
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Thank you Thomas and Dennis for sharing. I think I will divide this work into little blocks, one step at a time as I am getting overwhelmed. Will start with the Fuse panel first. I thank you so much for your advise.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:34 PM   #5
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The Uhauls had a battery box with a vented cover located center rear. If it is gone I would buy one, at Walmart or auto parts store or boat place. Screw it to the floor. How about the power converter, is it still there, but I'm guessing it's not. What about the original 12 volt lights. Otherwise from your pictures it looks like a wiring butcher job that someone did there. Uhaul's original wiring wasn't so great from what I'm seeing in ours. Right now I'm doing the 110Volt wiring, then going to upgrade the 12 volt and add a couple more lights. And what about the rear window, I'm looking for a replacement for ours as it is in bad shape, but haven't made a final decision yet. If you need to talk to someone about the wiring let me know. How about joining us at Jane's Uhaul rally in SC in April for a wiring lesson. Bob
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:11 PM   #6
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I just put in a LifeLine AGM battery. This is one of the warnings they give:

----------------------------
Battery Charging:

WARNING: All batteries must be adequately vented during charging to avoid accumulation of explosive hydrogen gasses. Never install or charge in a sealed container or room.

-------------------------------

The uhaul battery box has a vent tube to the outside. It is important to have it connected. AGM's vent less but it can still happen.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouse View Post
...........

The uhaul battery box has a vent tube to the outside. It is important to have it connected. AGM's vent less but it can still happen.
You can buy a replacement battery box at an RV or boat place. It should have a gasketed top.There should be a vent on the back of the UHaul to attach a 3/4" or so diameter tube to the box.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:09 AM   #8
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NAPA auto parts has a 6 circuit fuse block with a single input for a wire from the plus side of your battery. It is part # BK7825316, price is about $18.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:31 AM   #9
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Just a caution to the OP, you should get a book or other learning material and understand basic DC circuits. That battery has the capacity to do great damage (think burns, fire) if shorted out. Understand about minimum wire gauges, fuse sizes, how to wire a switch.

It is not complicated, but you really owe it to yourself to get down the basics. Plus you will save yourself from doing the job twice.

Amazon.com: Used and New: Basic Electricity and Dc Circuits
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:02 AM   #10
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Here's a real easy solution, buy a few of the stick-on LED lights that use AAA batteries. No wiring required. We have a couple in our teardrop as we don't have room for a big battery in that.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:46 AM   #11
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DC Overcurerrent

Make sure any overcurrent devices you buy are rated for DC when used in your 12 Volt system Standard home circuit breakers are rated for AC only and will not function properly on DC . The spacing and design of the contacts in DC devices are designed differently because of the way DC arcs
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:09 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Here's a real easy solution, buy a few of the stick-on LED lights that use AAA batteries. No wiring required. We have a couple in our teardrop as we don't have room for a big battery in that.

That's a good temporary solution. I've found the ones at Dollar Tree to be of reasonable quality. I peppered the underside of my closet shelves in my linen closet with them. No black hole corners.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:37 AM   #13
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i sugjest you go to the local library and get a book. "the 12 volt bible" is a good one. its really not hard stuff. but its good to study a little first.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:10 AM   #14
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i suggest you go to the local library and get a book. "the 12 volt bible" is a good one. its really not hard stuff. but its good to study a little first.
I'm a big fan of buying used books online.

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Old 02-21-2012, 11:45 AM   #15
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I drove into my local RV shop and had them in stall a new 30amp 110 system (so I have the capacity for AC if I decide to). It is also wired through my existing inverter (converter?) that allows me to also have 12v lights and charges the battery. I feel much better with all new wiring in the trailer.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:41 PM   #16
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Fuses

I just bought a ct13 and replaced the burned out florescent light over the closet with a light from an rv dealer that has a plug to add a bunk light. Once the light was installed it lit great but then I plugged in the bunk light and they all lit for a second then blew out. Is there a fuse box somewhere I can't find, or any ideas. Now I cant get either to work. Everything else seems fine, (hood light, furnace fan, etc.)
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:27 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by lanegr8 View Post
I just bought a ct13 and replaced the burned out florescent light over the closet with a light from an rv dealer that has a plug to add a bunk light. Once the light was installed it lit great but then I plugged in the bunk light and they all lit for a second then blew out. Is there a fuse box somewhere I can't find, or any ideas. Now I cant get either to work. Everything else seems fine, (hood light, furnace fan, etc.)
I replied to your other post, same topic. Best not to add on to some one else's thread.
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:31 PM   #18
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My fuse box is under the bed/table just in front of the battery compartment. You don't need to open any of the cabinets. There is an original door with a twist lock on mine. You need to look for the burned out fuse and find an identical replacement. Mine say up to 32 v and 15 amps.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:15 PM   #19
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Best solution, get someone that knows how to show you. Not a lot to it, a few tools, basic knowledge, and some time to do a neat job.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:24 PM   #20
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Diane I'd rather stick a needle in my eye than try to sort thru all that. I'm collecting all the stuff to redo my wiring and change over to 30 amp from 15 but I'm going to wimp out and have someone connect all the wires for me once I get everything bought. I would probably just sit there and whine if I had to do it. I'm scared of doing it wrong and having a fire or something but kudos to you for trying!
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