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Old 09-25-2019, 06:18 PM   #21
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It’s your trailer, set it up the way you want, my 1300 had a 12v circuit for the 3 way fridge (if you used it on 12v) it could run on propane without , the furnace didn’t need power, and it had 1 12 volt light We used it for years like that, and enjoyed it most 1300’s did not have electric brakes, so no need for a breakaway switch
A lot of the 1300’s had a single 110v light above the sink.

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Old 09-26-2019, 05:25 PM   #22
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Do the Trilliums not come with a Power Converter? My Boler has one. All the lights, the Fantastic fan, etc. are 12 VDC. When I only have 110 service the Power Converter converts the 110 VAC to 12 VDC to run those--with or with a battery.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:04 PM   #23
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Some trilliums did not have a power converter, mine had only a box with a single 15 amp breaker for ac plugs and lights
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:54 AM   #24
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Hello I have a 1976 Trillium and would never go without 12v power in it. You are assuming that every campground has 120v available. Most have serviced and un-serviced sites. Arrive late and you won't have service for your stay because the full service sites are all taken. 12v power+ propane allows you to stay anywhere you want with the advantage of peace and quiet, starlit sky and views to remember forever. Don't forget you can pull over in a rest area and have a meal or coffee anytime too. Good luck with your renovation ! Happy camping ! Duane
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Old 09-29-2019, 05:16 AM   #25
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Although I understand everyones issues about travelling without batteries, I dont see why I couldnt travel with a Lithium Power Generator like a Goalzero Yeti which would provide days of power for a 110v fridge. They weight barely anything too and can be recharged with solar panels.

It is more expensive but a 3 way fridge is $1000 for a decent one vs $150 for a better 110v fridge and that alone pays for the Yeti - although there is bonus savings of not running an inverter (the power dynamics one I was going to buy was $300).

Am I missing anything else that would make me want 12v?
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:10 AM   #26
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I've been considering replacing my 3way fridge with a 110 compressor type since we haven't used it on propane for years. The Yeti makes great sense price wise, could travel with the fridge running,, plus off grid would be an option should we ever go there.
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:27 AM   #27
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I am reading reports of the 400 version running a pre-cooled 110v mini fridge + led lighting for 20-30 hours from customers actually using it for camping, and I was planning to go for the 1000 (I want it to serve dual purpose for power outages at home as well).
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Old 09-29-2019, 12:16 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by thrifty bill View Post
Do the math. It doesn't work ..
OK, lets do some math. But lets use a different Yeti

Goal Zero Yeti 1400: 1425 watt-hours (Figure at least 100 amp-hours for a 12 volt system)

Danby 1.6 Cubic foot "Dorm Fridge" 207 kWh yearly
or 567 watt-hours a day.

So 567 watt-hours a day load on the 1425 watt-hour Yeti, assuming 85% inverter efficiency, comes out to 2.1 days. > (1425*.85)/567 <

By the way, my Indel B "truck fridge" uses about 250-280 watt-hours a day if set on about 40F and not opened much, not in the sun, etc. So running it on 12 volts from the Yeti instead of 120 it would likely run five days, maybe a little more, from the 1425 watt hour lithium battery.

With the lower power consumption of the Indel B, keeping it going with solar becomes practical. Keeping even the smallest 120 volt "dorm fridge" going on solar is more of a problem, since you would need at least an average of 567 watt-hours a days (cloudy ones also) - I figure at least 200 watts of panels and good days of sun, and even then the sun will let you down sooner or later.

Then there is the cost of the set up.. Danby fridge: $130, Yeti 1400, $1,800, 300 watts of solar, maybe $740 for everything. Total: over $2,600.

Please let know if my math is not right.
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Old 09-29-2019, 01:18 PM   #29
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Out of curiosity, how long would a traditional deep cycle battery (the type your would consider running in a trillium 1300) run that same fridge?
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Old 09-29-2019, 02:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Wackyrooster View Post
Out of curiosity, how long would a traditional deep cycle battery (the type your would consider running in a trillium 1300) run that same fridge?
Which fridge are you asking about.. the discussion was about two very different ones.

Speaking about the Indel B 31 portable fridge...

It really depends... there is a lot of difference between setting it at 32 vs 40F, opening it a lot or not at all, ambient air temp of 50 or 90, food prechilled or not, the size of the battery, etc.

But my answer is usually a day or two.
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:10 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Wackyrooster View Post
Out of curiosity, how long would a traditional deep cycle battery (the type your would consider running in a trillium 1300) run that same fridge?
For my part, my answer would be "don't know, don't care". I get adequate, if uninspired, performance from the Dometic on propane. Not an option here, apparently. My sense is if I lost use of the propane reefer my alternative would be a couple bags of ice and a good cooler. The ice would probably last as long and is pretty competitive, pricewise (with an ice run every 2-3 days). Trying to run a dorm fridge seems not much more than an excuse to put a thumb in someone's eye. But still, knock yourself out. My eyes do glaze over when people try to prove to me it's good science.
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:15 PM   #32
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You can always use the dorm fridge at home as a beer fridge, when it fails to cool on the road.
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Old 09-29-2019, 03:43 PM   #33
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I agree with you steve - I never plan to be away from civilization for any significant duration and plan to be on serviced sites almost exclusively.

But for the rare times, I am not going to freak out if I have to put a bag of ice in a fridge for a day or 2 - could even leave the fridge on min to draw very little power to supplement the ice.
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Old 09-29-2019, 11:27 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Wackyrooster View Post
Although I understand everyones issues about travelling without batteries, I dont see why I couldnt travel with a Lithium Power Generator like a Goalzero Yeti which would provide days of power for a 110v fridge. They weight barely anything too and can be recharged with solar panels.

It is more expensive but a 3 way fridge is $1000 for a decent one vs $150 for a better 110v fridge and that alone pays for the Yeti - although there is bonus savings of not running an inverter (the power dynamics one I was going to buy was $300).

Am I missing anything else that would make me want 12v?
yes you are. You will get more hours of use out of your battery running a 12v fridge than running a 120v one.

https://sciencing.com/run-fridge-sol...-12319074.html
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Old 09-30-2019, 04:39 AM   #35
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Although you are correct in theory, it doesnt apply to my case.

No matter what I do I will be using a Yeti lithium generator as my off grid power solution - I am not interested in wiring in a heavy battery that I need to truck with me even if I know I am camping on grid. Since it has an inverter in it to 110, if I get a 12v fridge (which is much more expensive), I would have to convert again to 12v which would have double loss in conversion, which would come close to or exceed and gain in power efficiency (which I still dont believe is a significant one anyway.
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:54 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Wackyrooster View Post
... Since it has an inverter in it to 110, if I get a 12v fridge (which is much more expensive), I would have to convert again to 12v which would have double loss in conversion, ...
Which Yeti are you getting? I think the 1400 is the size required to practically run a dorm fridge. (And BTW, its almost 48 lbs). But even the 400 has 12 volt outlets. I think the 400 would not even power a dorm fridge for a full 24 hours but should power a "Truck Fridge" type 12 VDC fridge for about two days.

The 1400 has 12 VDC outlets and it appears that the inverter and 120 VAC outlets can and should be turned off when using only 12 volts. So no, you would not be doing double conversion with a Yeti's with 12 volt outlets and 12 VDC fridge.

But there is more to it than that. The 12 VDC fridges I am talking about use a Danfoss style compressor which is more efficient than the compressor in "dorm fridges." Thats the big advantage, with the icing on the cake being no inverter loss. I estimate these fridges use half the power of the drom fridge on average, and yes, they cost 3-4 times as much. There is no free lunch, at least not if you want to keep the lunch refrigerated.


Goal Zero says this in the 1400 manual and FAQ:

Another factor in the math is how much power is being converted going from the Goal Zero Yeti battery to the device you are powering/charging. In some situations, like when running a 12V device, such as the LAL 350, directly off the 12V port, there will be no conversion and so no additional losses.

...when using the AC power output, the Goal Zero Yeti will be converting the energy from the DC power of the battery to the AC power needed by your device. Although your Goal Zero Yeti has a highly efficient inverter, there is still some energy lost in the conversion and you will not get the full rated capacity of the battery.

Our Yeti's inverters will pull 3-7 watts/hour by themselves when they are left turned on. This means that if the Yeti 1400 is fully charged and you accidentally leave the AC outlets turned on, even though nothing is plugged into them, the Yeti will drain to 0% in roughly 280 hours.
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:01 AM   #37
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Even the smallest Goalzero Yeti weighs in at 100 lbs plus and looks to be half the size of a dishwasher. I'd rather haul around a 42 pound Honda gennie.
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Old 09-30-2019, 09:36 AM   #38
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The Smallest goal zero is not Lithium - yeti 400 weighs under 3lbs
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:06 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Wackyrooster View Post
.. yeti 400 weighs under 3lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
Even the smallest Goalzero Yeti weighs in at 100 lbs plus ...
I dont know where you are getting your information...

Lithium Goal Zero 400: Weight: 16.3 lbs (7.4 kg)
Per the tech specs on their website.

And the non-Lithium Goal Zero 400: Weight: 29 lbs (13.2 kg)
Per the tech specs on their website.

Even the smallest one is 12 lbs. Perhaps you are judging the weight without a battery. Even then, the largest one I see (3000) is 68.6 lbs, not 100 lbs plus.
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Old 09-30-2019, 10:10 AM   #40
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Mine was supposed to say 30lbs -but the point stands that it is lighter and can be run on any camp ground unlike gas generators.
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