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Old 07-18-2022, 10:34 PM   #21
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I did NOT design in a transfer switch in my system. Instead I made it impossible to simultaneously feed the power controller with shore power and inverter power.

I simply did not wire the inverter into my system. Instead, I installed an exterior 20amp outlet, powered off my inverter, on the street side of my camper. When I wish to use the inverter to power my camper I run a custom power cable "jumper cable" from my 20amp outlet to my 30amp power inlet, which is also on my camper's street side.

Since only one cable can be hooked-up to my 30amp power inlet at a time, no one can screw it up. Keep it simple stupid.

This solution does require you to physically plug in the jumper cable, which is actually quite simple.

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Old 07-18-2022, 10:57 PM   #22
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Did you watch the video i posted? I discuss why a transfer switch is important to keep from frying your inverter if you happen to be connected to shore power and maybe accidentally turn on the inverter. I went with the Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 because it has a built in transfer switch and charger.

I spent $1300 for the inverter and all wiring and components needed to do a self install. I already had a second battery so this didn’t factor into my cost above.
Actually, I did watch the videos. We have very different trailers, and I am amazed at how much equipment you were able to install throughout your trailer.

Looks like I’ll be reading about Transfer switches this week. You planted a bug in my brain: inverters with built-in transfer switches. Thank you… maybe.

Just looked up the Xantrex. I’ll definitely spend some time researching it. Assuming “true” sine wave is the same as “pure” sine. My initial thoughts are it’s price - even considering the built-in transfer switch.
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Old 07-19-2022, 03:19 AM   #23
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Great! True sine wave and pure sine wave are the same.

Yea, having a transfer switch and charger built into the inverter makes the install and usage so much simpler if you are wanting to connect your entire trailer like i did. I feel mine is dummy proof. If we don’t have shore power, i press a button and then the camper is like if i have shore power. I still need to make sure i don’t run too many devices but that’s it. If i plug the trailer into shore power, it assesses the connection to ensure it’s stable and then transfers automatically over to shore power and stops using the batteries for power. It then automatically starts charging my batteries.

If you wire it directly without the setup above you’ll need to figure out two things.

1. How not prevent shore power and inverter powering the trailer at the same time.
2. How to have the converter on to charge your batteries only when connected to shore power.

If you don’t wire it directly into the trailer, then that fixes both issues and the inverter will have an outlet on it and whatever you want to run while boondocking you just connect to that outlet. But that means you may be running extension cords in the camper so your appliances can reach the inverter and you won’t be able to run your a/c or any other outlet or hardwired device in the trailer.
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Old 07-19-2022, 05:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP View Post
Microwaves are notoriously inefficient. Most of us have small,700w microwaves which typically draw 1100w. Combine that with a 75% efficient inverter and we're looking at an overall efficiency of about 48%. Yikes.

Walt
Why not use a 12VDC microwave? This would at least cut out the inverter losses.
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Old 07-19-2022, 12:55 PM   #25
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My understanding is the Novakool 4500 4.3 cu ft compressor fridge requires 60 amp hrs per day. That's a minimum of 200 amp hrs battery or 200 watts of solar? Therefore a 340 watt solar power system and a 220 amp hr battery might work. I see Battlborn has dropped their 100ah battery price to $874. Hmm.
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Old 07-19-2022, 04:15 PM   #26
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Unfortunately, not. I know you have been having problems running on propane; probably altitude related, but you will need far more battery to run the refrigerator on electricity. You would do better (and maybe cheaper) switching to a 12V compressor refrigerator. The RM8555 is the same size as the RM8551 and a couple of Escape owners have replaced the RM8555 with a Dometic 10.5 X, which is an almost exact fit or a Norcold N2175 which is an exact fit. Both use efficient compressors, but still require around 30 - 50 amp hours per day. This would be a tight fit with one 100 amp hour battery, but a lot less than trying to run an absorption refrigerator on electricity.

Check this post for a description of installing the Norcold, and this one for the Dometic.

Anyone having propane problems should check their propane regulator. They only last around 10 years. My 2020 bigfoot needed a new one already. I was having furnace problems and after spinning in circles a bit I found out it was the regulator.
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Old 07-19-2022, 07:00 PM   #27
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Any one own, have info regarding Progressive Dynamics 2000W inverter with auto transfer switch?

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Inverter...cs/PD64FR.html

Would appreciate feedback.

Thanks,
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Old 07-19-2022, 07:48 PM   #28
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Looks good, only concern is transfer switch is only 20A vs 30A.

I know with mine being plugged in and running the hot water heater, fridge on ac and a/c running pulls over 26A. With this version you would need to limit the number of devices you run while connected to shore power.
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Old 07-19-2022, 10:58 PM   #29
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Looks good, only concern is transfer switch is only 20A vs 30A.

I know with mine being plugged in and running the hot water heater, fridge on ac and a/c running pulls over 26A. With this version you would need to limit the number of devices you run while connected to shore power.
I was wondering the same thing. Called PD’s tech support. He assured me 20A wouldn’t be a problem. I’m putting together a schematic on how everything will connect, then do a followup call.

One thing of concern is whether I can mount the PD or Grendel inverter horizontally on the wall adjacent to the power center. (Forgot to ask PD). As an aside, how nice you were able to mount yours upside down.

If I decide to purchase the Grendel 2200w inverter I’ll pair it with the WFCP T-30. It has great reviews, meets all my needs, and it’s priced under $100. Sadly, the price of several inverters (including the Grendel) on Amazon have increased.

Amazon doesn’t sell the PD 2000w inverter/ATS. Hoping to find someone on this forum or the Escape forum who has used it.

Also found a combo inverter/ATS on Amazon for $400. But I never heard of the manufacturer. Plus it’s huge: over 20” long. Progressive dynamics is a known entity, and it’s 2000W inverter is relatively compact.

The inverter will be located (horizontally hung) on the back wall of the electrical bay. I’m concerned how much area heats up. So I’m going to place a Bluetooth enabled thermometer in there.

Well, that’s my progress report.
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Old 07-20-2022, 04:23 AM   #30
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Interesting they said it wouldn’t be a problem. How did they explain the fact you could be pulling over 20a from the shore but their switch only supports 20a and they tell you it will be fine…??

Yea,, i had a hard time trying to find the best spot to put an inverter. I looked at lots of inverter models but when i found the Xantrex and it said i could mount upside down and have the other features i wanted, i felt like the money was worth it.
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Old 07-21-2022, 02:32 PM   #31
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I found this ad/article while through my newsfeed. Lists several possibilities for off grid AC goodies. Kind of like the egg cooker as I like poached eggs cooked in the microwave) for breakfast. This also cooks hard & soft boiled eggs. Smaller than round electric egg poachers.

Also intrigued with the mini air fryer

Can’t tell how many volts needed for these goodies.

Potential Xmas gifts for the trailer owner in your life.

Check it out!

https://www.travelwith2ofus.com/gadg...apartments.php
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Old 07-21-2022, 04:06 PM   #32
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I can pretty much guarantee those are all household devices running off of 120V AC. The big question is how many amps do they pull and for how long. That will tell you how much battery they will consume.
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Old 07-21-2022, 04:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shocksll View Post
I can pretty much guarantee those are all household devices running off of 120V AC. The big question is how many amps do they pull and for how long. They will tell you how much battery they will consume.
My bad. Logged off & realized I meant watts.

Watts, amps, volts… so much to keep track!

Thanks for the catch. Usually it’s John from Santa Cruz who follows up on my gaps.
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