Quick way to run 12-110 volt inverter in Scamp 13. - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-23-2020, 09:40 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
is is a TaoTronics TT-AP001
This looks like a good choice in that it has a carbon HEPA filter. Ionization devices tend to be oversold, to put it kindly.

Carbon filters function by a process called adsorption, (something folks can read up on if they are having any problems sleeping at night).

Quote:
Due to its high degree of microporosity, one gram of activated carbon has a surface area in excess of 3,000 m2 (32,000 sq ft)
If you are in a high AQI area with the smoke, you will likely have to replace the filter much more often than the 3 to 6 months cited on the product data.

However, I am now a bit puzzled about this whole discussion of the current draw on an inverter. None of the pictures I found illustrate the power cord.

The product data states that it has a battery, and also that it operates on 12 volts.

Quote:
1 Lithium ion batteries required. (included)
Quote:
Voltage: DC12V Power
Then the owner's manual goes on to state that it has a polarized plug, which is standard for a 120 VAC power cord.

Quote:
• IMPORTANT - This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the
other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician. Do not attempt to
rig this safety feature.
So, maybe it has a 120 VAC power cord but operates internally on 12 VDC?

Also, with a battery, wouldn't you be dealing with a higher charging current for some limited period of time?
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:05 PM   #42
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12 volts!

Civil guy: The battery they refer to is, I believe, very small and not a primary power source. Regarding the 12 volt thing: you are totally right!!! Wow. Thanks a lot for researching that. I am a little embarrassed but mostly thrilled. I had not realized that the AC power cord was actually a 110vac to 12vdc converter. So I think you are right that I can power it directly from a 12 v battery without using an inverter, which will obviously be way more efficient! Thanks again!

Now I just need to figure out what type of plug it has so I can make a power cord with appropriate connectors on it to connect in to my 12 volt panel. Perhaps using 15 amp Andersons for that. The wire gauge on the power cord that comes with it is pretty small, 24 AWG. I'll try to post pictures of that.
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:10 PM   #43
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power cord, connector

Here is the power cord. I need to figure out what the connector is and where I can get one. It is 5.4 mm o.d..
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:34 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
Now I just need to figure out what type of plug it has so I can make a power cord with appropriate connectors on it to connect in to my 12 volt panel. Perhaps using 15 amp Andersons for that. The wire gauge on the power cord that comes with it is pretty small, 24 AWG. I'll try to post pictures of that.
You might want to check the label on the (presumed) power brick and/or put your meter on the output and make that sure you have 12 volts DC and not AC.

Unfortunately the coaxial barrel connectors come in different sizes. You need to measure the barrel with a micrometer or caliper to determine the sizing.

You could just cut the cord and add crimp-on connectors so you could use the existing barrel connector with the brick or with your new 12VDC cord. Personally, I am troubled by such inelegant approaches. But I have done it; just don't tell anyone.
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:52 PM   #45
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pictures

I measured 5.4 mm od and then rounded up to 5.5 mm since that seems very common. That can come with a number of different id, so I ended up ordering a 2.1x5.5mm and a 2.5x5.5mm. Hopefully one of those will work and I won't have to cut and crimp. I wouldn't mind as much going the inelegant route if the wires were larger diameter, but they are only 24 awg and Andersons would seem pretty large and awkward on such small wire. Is there a preferable type of connector I could use with that 24 awg wire? if it comes to that?
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:43 PM   #46
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We have a "booster" for our TPMS that has similarly fine-gauge wire. It came with a pair of puny alligator clips which would dependably spit out whatever you tried to attach them to.

I put crimp connectors on the booster and on one branch of an 16+/- gauge splitter that fits into a lighter-style receptacle in the trailer.

I "may" have doubled the conductor back along itself or alongside the insulation on the fine-gauged wire to give it a bit more thickness or mechanical strength, I don't recall.

I'm "okay" with the arrangement because it just lays on the bed while we travel, then gets unplugged and put into a cabinet when we arrive at a site.

It's decidedly inelegant. I'll try to post a photo tomorrow.
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Old 09-24-2020, 12:01 AM   #47
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yeah, powerpole would be total overkill for something thats like 1 amp or less.

and yeah, you already figured out those coax power connectors come in a gazillion OD and ID combinations, god I hate that, there's NO standards but it is what it is. for that skinny gauge wire I'd probably solder rather than crimp. not sure what sort of power jack i'd put on the trailer to support that, maybe just a RCA phono, or mini-phone plug as long as you clearly mark it 12V (as someone might think its audio). Do be sure to get the polarity right, most of those coaxial power connectors have the center pin positive and the outer sleeve negative, but I've seen a few that were the other way around.

if that air cleaner has an internal liIon rechargable battery, it probably runs for some hours without even being connected, then needs recharging. 3 18650 sized liion batts (just a bit bigger than a AA cell) can provide 12 volts at around 3 amp*hours, which would give you 6 hours at half an amp, or whatever....

I do second the emotion, bad air like the western state's reacent rash of nasty fires, that charcoal filter will be saturated in a day or two, so you could go through dozens of filters a month under those sorts of conditions. Thankfully here, at least, we only had a couple days with a PM 2.5 AQI over 150, and a week or so of 'moderate' (60s/70s/80s). I understand parts of oregon and the California Sierras spent week or more in the 'very hazardous' range of 500+
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Old 09-24-2020, 12:07 AM   #48
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those bullet connectors in the post above my previous, ugh. red is 20-16 gauge, blue is 16-14 gauge, yellow is 12-10 gauge. most of those crimp connectors are poor quality, and do not make reliable connections with smaller wires. and those bullets have a rather high insertion force, making it quite easy to break thinner gauge wires when unplugging them.

when I do have to use the red/blue/yellow style crimps, I try and find the marine grade ones that have heat shrinking insulation that has a heat activated sealing adhesive on the inside. after crimping the connection, you hit them with a hot air gun to shrink the insulator around your wire insulation, and get a fairly secure seal.
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Old 09-24-2020, 10:57 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
It's decidedly inelegant. I'll try to post a photo tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
those bullet connectors in the post above my previous, ugh.
Sigh. After John posted pictures of his elegant receptacle installation, this is like showing up at Sturgis on a Vespa.

It's an "interim" fix that I implemented in a hurry before departing on a trip as the alligator clips on the TMPS signal booster were not getting the job done.

Of course, some of my "interim" fixes will probably be unearthed by future generations of archaeologists...

...like the blue painters tape I put over the receptacle LED to dim it. The discerning will further note that I didn't even cut the tape, but tore it "more or less straight".

In my defense, I do tin the stranded conductors on 120V light fixtures before installing them.
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Old 09-24-2020, 06:34 PM   #50
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Looks great
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FWIW, my Escape had several spare fuse spaces, and I used like 4 of them to power a triple-marine style plate with a pair of 2A USB charging ports (fused at 10A), a cigar outlet (fused at 15A), and a dual powerpole, each powerpole fused at 30A. my portable 200W inverter has a powerpole on its 12V input (it originally had battery clips, I do have a pair of battery clips on a powerpole, so I can plug those into the inverter if needed).




(yes, they are upside down, I did that so the flaps would hang down instead of being in the way when open)

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Old 09-26-2020, 03:56 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Sizing a conductor is not based on ampacity alone - ...battery
Thanks Steve. I heeded your words on that end went with a 12 AWG pair. I will try to post pictures.

In response to Gordon and Steve, it does seem that the power distribution system and the converter are separate. Thanks very much for your education on that among other things. Your posts were so helpful and so appreciated.
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:07 PM   #52
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What I ended up doing, was connecting a 12 AWG pair to wire nuts associated with the light, with 30 amp Anderson connectors at the other end. So then, that is my source of power, 12 V power. The pair is about 8 feet long and runs from the back corner down two along the side of the sink. I’ll try to post pictures.
I looked at the power distribution system in the rear on the port side, and that looked a bit intimidating for me to access at this time. Like very tight and difficult to get in there and work on. So that’s why I ended up doing it the way I did, wiring into the wire nuts in the corner, which was so much easier.The PDS and the converter do appear to be separate.
Keeping track of polarity, I cut the 12 V power cord going to the air purifier, and was a short splice to a slightly larger wire then cramped Anderson connectors onto that. So now I can easily plug that in to my 12 V power source coming from the wire nuts. Again I will try to post pictures, but at this time I’m Boondocking and not sure if I can do that.
So the bottom line is, it works great. And I learned a lot. I so appreciate everyone’s help with this, Steve, Gordon, John and civil guy... You guys are amazingly helpful and really good teachers. Truth is, starting out, I didn’t even know what a converter was or how converters and Power distribution systems are configured, etc. I had a lot to learn and really appreciate your help!
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:15 PM   #53
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Also, Gordon, I really appreciate your pointing out the colors and advising me to use the correct colors. I wasn’t able to do that this time because I didn’t have a white wire of sufficient length and gauge. But your comment help me remember that white black convention, And to be really aware of that. That white is ground and black is +12 V in the Scamp. Because that can be tricky when some other things use a red black system with black as ground. I haven’t really done anything permanent or internal yet, but when I do wire some thing into the PDS I will use the correct colors as you advised.
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:20 PM   #54
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12 awg pair. 12 volts.
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Old 09-26-2020, 04:28 PM   #55
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Taotronics Air purifier.
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Old 09-26-2020, 08:42 PM   #56
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Thanks civil guy for the advice about how to post pictures. Next time I’ll try to get my pictures to post in the right orientation.
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