Replacing Pump switch with a push button lighted version - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-27-2024, 03:03 PM   #1
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Replacing Pump switch with a push button lighted version

Has anyone ever replaced the 2 wire single pole pump switch with a lighted push button one? We are tired of the switch being turned on or left on. I was hoping I could find a simple wiring diagram for a 2015 17ft spirit deluxe to see where it is best to tap in a new lighted 4 wire switch.
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Old 04-28-2024, 06:11 AM   #2
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Here's a simple fix. I just added a small red LED light above the water pump switch
which is wired in front of the sink. Just drilled a small hole above the switch and mounted the LED there. Instant ON/OFF indicator. Bought a couple of "piggy-back" saddle spade terminal clips to install on the back of the switch terminals to hook up the LED, and voila!
No need for any more elaborate changes. This works.
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Old 04-28-2024, 06:37 AM   #3
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Just to clarify, you don't want the usual lighted rocker switch? Those work pretty well IME as a visual reminder and easy to install.
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Old 04-28-2024, 06:48 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyM View Post
Just to clarify, you don't want the usual lighted rocker switch? Those work pretty well IME as a visual reminder and easy to install.
So what's wrong with adding an LED and simply having a visual indication of whether its on or off? Really no need to change out the switch.
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Old 04-28-2024, 07:20 AM   #5
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Don't know, that's why I asked OP. Seems he doesn't want a rocker switch for some reason.
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Old 04-28-2024, 07:22 AM   #6
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Agreed, but there really isn't a reason, or need, to swap out the switch itself. Just add an LED across the hot and ground terminals. Simple solution. No need to change anything out. When the switch is on, the light is on.
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Old 04-28-2024, 07:37 AM   #7
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Old 04-28-2024, 08:20 AM   #8
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Our 2010 had the lighted switch already installed, but the factory switch only had two wires, the positive 12v in and positive 12v out to the pump leaving the installer looking for a place to connect a ground for the new lighted switch.

Their solution which worked fine was to tie it to the gas line feeding the stove.
That connection sort of bothered me.

I was adding another circuit and added a bus bar for power and ground connections, followed by a redo of some other switches into one recessed panel where switches can't accidentally be turned on.

The old lighted switch wasn't very bright, so if I was doing it again I would do as Greg suggests and install a separate LED, you can purchase LED's and switch connection tabs doublers at any auto parts store.

After you find a ground connection (usually white), attach the doubler to the switch, if you connect it to the wrong terminal the led will stay on continuously and just move it to the other terminal.
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Old 04-28-2024, 08:39 AM   #9
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But if you really want the pushbutton switch, Autozone can accommodate you.

Also you mentioned a four wire switch, the new switch will only have three, pos12v in, pos12v to pump and the third one to ground, you only need to add the ground wire.

Some aftermarket lighted switches use black or yellow for ground
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Old 04-28-2024, 09:14 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the helpful hints. I had already purchased a push button switch. It does have 4 wires. If you hook to the on side the LED light stays on all the time, the other side only when the pump is on which is what I want.



I'm ready to test it out! I'll post some pictures when I'm done.
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Old 04-30-2024, 08:29 PM   #11
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I installed illuminated rocker switches for my water heater and pump. The pump has an LED but it is difficult to see, the rocker switch is easy to see, especially at night as you go to bed.

Charles





Quote:
Originally Posted by daveandalice View Post
Our 2010 had the lighted switch already installed, but the factory switch only had two wires, the positive 12v in and positive 12v out to the pump leaving the installer looking for a place to connect a ground for the new lighted switch.

Their solution which worked fine was to tie it to the gas line feeding the stove.
That connection sort of bothered me.
Brilliant move on someones part (NOT)
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Old 05-12-2024, 01:28 PM   #12
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HWH switch light indication

As Greg suggested, I added LED above the water pump switch. Ground wiring was connected to furnace case. It worked well. Now I need to add LED above the Water Heater switch, but I am not sure where the ground wire would attach to. Anyone?
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Old 05-12-2024, 01:59 PM   #13
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I added an inside On/Off switch to power my electric WH element. No need to go outside to flip the breaker On/Off anymore. The outside WH breaker is just left on all the time. I mounted a 120 VAC switch with a pilot light under my rear side dinette bench. No need to go outside anymore to switch it on or off, and I can see at a glance if the electric element is on or off. Very handy, especially if the weather isn't good outside as well.
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Old 05-12-2024, 04:55 PM   #14
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I like that setup too but I wanted to see how the electrical wiring & connections were done
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Old 05-13-2024, 07:03 AM   #15
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Casita Greg posted a detailed summary of installing a combination switch/light assy to control the electric (120vac) heating element without having to flip the circuit breaker on and off or go outside, open the water heater cover and flip the little hidden switch on and off.

Post #10 in the following thread details his install.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...med-97854.html

He also posted a modification on installing an indicator light near the propane switch assy to let you know when the system is running on propane since the light (reset) on the switch panel turns off after the burner is lit.

Also adding to confusion is the Suburban switch is "on" in the down position whereas most switches in modern civilization are off in that position.

You probably don't want to travel down the highway with your water heater firing up randomly.

Post#13 below has a photo of connecting a light to the propane switch circuit

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...wer-70851.html

I drew a simple schematic of the light modification, all you need is a light and some tab doublers to connect to the switch.
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Old 05-13-2024, 08:54 AM   #16
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Thanks Dave, I remember posting it some time ago, but I lost track of where it was. Glad someone's looking out for me.
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Old 05-13-2024, 09:13 AM   #17
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Glad to help out, some folks prefer the Suburban dual switch panel with a switch for gas and another for electric as installed in those stick and staple trailers.

Those panels require a separate relay, adding another component to fail, and if the wire connectors aren't crimped properly they will overheat and melt. (see photo)

Your electric switch mod is the most reliable simple solution.

Makes you wonder why trailer manufacturers don't think in terms of reliability versus ease of installation.
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Old 05-14-2024, 06:49 AM   #18
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Exactly what I was looking for. I connected LED to water heater switch and it works. Unfortunately I went back to check on the water pump switch, and the pump did not turn on. Switch was verified good (ohms reading) and there is no voltage at the switch wires. Fuse is good, Battery is good. Other 12V systems work. I am at a loss.
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Old 05-14-2024, 07:43 AM   #19
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To take a voltage reading at the water pump switch you must put one test lead on ground, such as the furnace case and the other lead to the pump switch connections one at a time.

If you installed a lighted pump switch you should have a ground wire to use in the test.
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Old 05-14-2024, 08:22 AM   #20
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With Switch in OFF position, I get 0V from top terminal and 13V from bottom one
With Switch in ON position, I get 13V from top terminal and 13V for bottom one
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