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Old 06-21-2018, 12:17 AM   #1
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RV porch light switches

are *ALL* of the common RV porch lights, like used on Casita and Escape (and most every other RV I've seen) flakey with a couple years of age?

both my Casita and Escape have a flakey switch. if I've not used th elight for awhile, I have to 'flick' that switch a dozen times before the light comes on. I squirted some DeOxit D5 on/into my Casita's switch and it worked better for a few months, but its back to just as flakey.
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:22 AM   #2
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I've had mine for about 12 years and no problems with the switch.

Many years ago I saw a relay filled with ants that stopped it from working. I believe it had been someplace in the south, maybe even southern California.


Spiders can also wreck havoc with electrical switches.
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:07 AM   #3
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Original 40 year old porch switch in my Trillium 4500. The ON and OFF lettering is partly worn off. It is a panel mount, snap in and out, so easy to replace.
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:26 PM   #4
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my 2 samples are from 2008 and 2014, and they both look the following...

if I've not used them for a few weeks, just switching them on, nada. I hold one finger lightly on the 'on' side, and use another finger (other hand) to repeatedly flick the off side so the first finger acts as a spring and hammers the 'on' side until they light. half dozen of these, then the switch starts working again.

on the escape, there's an indoor switch also, so if I leave the outdoor switch on, and use the indoor switch, I've not had any issues yet.

btw, both of mine have an amber/yellow LED in them. Maybe its the much lower current of the LED (probably 80mA for about 1 watt?) thats exasperating the problem, the standard bulb is likely 1 amp or so.
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Old 06-21-2018, 01:47 PM   #5
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Open them up and put a little dialectric grease on them, they will work fine.
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:18 PM   #6
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Open them up and put a little dialectric grease on them, they will work fine.

Dialectric grease does not conduct electricity. It is an insulator meant to be used on the rubber boot of a spark plug to keep water and debris out.
I use electrical contact cleaner in a spray can for problem contacts.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silico...lectric_grease
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:04 PM   #7
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Both our Scamp's and this Parkliner's porch light switches have gotten hard to turn on. But once on made good contact. Turning them off is easy.
A squirt of WD40 seemed to help.
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:09 PM   #8
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Replacement switches are pretty inexpensive. If you want an interesting project, replace the switch with a Single Pole, Double Throw, add an interior SPDT switch & wiring, and you will be able to turn on & off the light from either inside or outside.
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:48 PM   #9
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Here's a picture to visualize what Jon said.
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Old 06-21-2018, 07:19 PM   #10
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on the escape, I'm very tempted to bypass the switch on the light, and just use the doorjam switch, its only a couple feet away.

on the casita, well, we're selling that
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:17 AM   #11
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2017 Scamp Porch Light

I was hoping to respond to a previous thread, not to start a new one. That said, the problem I have is getting water inside the porch light. This happens even if the Scamp 13 is just sitting on my driveway and there is a moderate rain. I'm sure that eventually I will have a problem with the switch. Any suggestions on what to use to get a better seal around the switch are more than welcome.
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:48 AM   #12
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John in Santa Cruz, another option is to replace your porch light with an identical porch light WITHOUT the switch. I found the switchless version of the porch lights available at etrailer and also at delcity:

https://www.delcity.net/store/Utilit...iABEgKzS_D_BwE
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Greene View Post
I was hoping to respond to a previous thread, not to start a new one. That said, the problem I have is getting water inside the porch light. This happens even if the Scamp 13 is just sitting on my driveway and there is a moderate rain. I'm sure that eventually I will have a problem with the switch. Any suggestions on what to use to get a better seal around the switch are more than welcome.
While it might be the switch that is leaking, it is more likely the lens, or condensation. I drilled a drain hole in the bottom of mine, which seemed to help.

As to adding the 3 way rather than using the door switch, in my 2011 17, no door switches, and I wanted to be able to turn it on from the bed.
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:57 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Greene View Post
I was hoping to respond to a previous thread, not to start a new one. That said, the problem I have is getting water inside the porch light. This happens even if the Scamp 13 is just sitting on my driveway and there is a moderate rain. I'm sure that eventually I will have a problem with the switch. Any suggestions on what to use to get a better seal around the switch are more than welcome.
Re-install the fixture after covering the backside with butyl tape OR seal the top and side edges with polyurethane sealant
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
As to adding the 3 way rather than using the door switch, in my 2011 17, no door switches, and I wanted to be able to turn it on from the bed.
I also completely removed the switch in my porch light and filled in the switch hole with white marine grade sealant. The ONLY switch to turn it on or off is now located inside my entry "hallway" where only I, and not someone outside, can turn it on or off. After all, why would anyone want a porch light with an outside switch? If some unknown stranger is knocking on your trailer door at night, are you really going to open the door to reach outside to turn on the light? Do you have to go outside to turn your porch light on in your home? To me it makes no sense and could be dangerous. I want total control over my porch light, not someone outside.
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Old 06-22-2018, 01:23 PM   #16
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Dielectric grease is used on insulators, yes, but it also prevents switch contacts from corroding and failing. Say what you may, I have been using it for over 40 years with no problems and good results. If the light switch contact is cleaned a little with sand paper and dielectric grease or lithium grease is applied there will be no more problems!!
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Old 06-22-2018, 02:57 PM   #17
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Dielectric grease is used on insulators, yes, but it also prevents switch contacts from corroding and failing. Say what you may, I have been using it for over 40 years with no problems and good results. If the light switch contact is cleaned a little with sand paper and dielectric grease or lithium grease is applied there will be no more problems!!
The problem with using dielectric grease, or any other "coating" lubricant, is that the swipe contacts on the switch would have to push the grease out of the way and off the contact surfaces to make an electrical connection. These little RV light switches are so cheesy and weak, it would be debatable as to whether they had sufficient spring strength to do it. We're not talking "heavy duty" equipment here.
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:13 PM   #18
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The best contact cleaner for small electronics is DeoxIT. Fairly expensive for the cheap switches in these lights.


DeoxIT® D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator
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