RV wiring basics - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-17-2013, 08:25 AM   #1
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RV wiring basics

Since our rv's and boats share the common fiberglass parents, here is a good video on basic boat wiring that should also apply to our own Egg's wiring. Courtesy of Jamestown Distributors.
Sorry the video did not upload- here is the link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...gn=email011713
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:33 AM   #2
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Lets try this
Wiring Simplified - YouTube
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #3
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Good video. I like that they start out with warning against using Romex in an environment with vibration.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #4
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I saw that, but I think it was in the context of 12v wiring, because later on it mentions other rules applicable to 120v systems, I'm sure romex is still okay for those 120v systems in a boat and or rv.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #5
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Good Video!
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I saw that, but I think it was in the context of 12v wiring, because later on it mentions other rules applicable to 120v systems, I'm sure romex is still okay for those 120v systems in a boat and or rv.
I'd be surprised, as the objection is that the solid wire breaks from exposure to vibration. Seems like a broken 110 volt wire would be just as problematic as a broken 12 volt wire.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #7
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For marine applications I have used braided romex style wire, tinned copper. So its out there and honestly...if I was gonna add anything 110 volt I would use the braided wire cause trailers def get some vibration lol

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:30 PM   #8
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Good video. I like that they start out with warning against using Romex in an environment with vibration.
Trillium used 14 AWG solid wire for all their 120VAC wiring. What did they say was the problem? Is it metal fatigue? On my first 4500, the stranded 12VDC wire has suffered from corrosion. It looks like water wicked up under the insulation. It could just have been heat from the corroding crimp connection though. There are places where the last inch, under the insulation is badly corroded. The 14 AWG solid is still in good shape after 35 years.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:40 PM   #9
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.........What did they say was the problem? Is it metal fatigue? ........
Video said metal fatigue from vibration and cited the marine standards that prohibit it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:41 PM   #10
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Tinned braided copper will last the longest... but they have only been doin that for so many years... but I always figure your better off useing better quality parts when you do a job so hopefully you wont have to ever redo it.

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #11
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Tinned stranded, (braided?) makes sense. Easier to solder as well.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:22 PM   #12
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On my first 4500, the stranded 12VDC wire has suffered from corrosion. It looks like water wicked up under the insulation. It could just have been heat from the corroding crimp connection though.
A vintage trailer restorer convinced me to always shrink wrap all my connections and bare wires to avoid corrosion and to avoid connections from vibrating lose. I had found that some of my original tail light connections had come loose. Have used the shrink wrapping on all electrical changes since, may have to wait another 20 years to see if it really works though .
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #13
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Great video! I'm going to look for the rest of them. Thanks for posting
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #14
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I've always understood that 12v must be stranded wire as the electrons only travel on the outside of the wire and stranded wire offers more surface area for them to travel.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:10 PM   #15
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A vintage trailer restorer convinced me to always shrink wrap all my connections and bare wires to avoid corrosion and to avoid connections from vibrating lose. I had found that some of my original tail light connections had come loose. Have used the shrink wrapping on all electrical changes since, may have to wait another 20 years to see if it really works though .
It will only work if you don't routinely punch holes in the insulation to test if its live. I watched a how to video on you tube that showed how electric brakes work. The guy kept recommending punching holes in the wiring to test the circuit. He was working on a flatbed, so all the wire was essentially outdoors and exposed to the elements.

Stay tuned. In a few years this guy is going to be posting a video on how to rewire a trailer because his whole electrical system will have turned to green mush. In a lot of ways the video was well done. He did an excellent job on how to work on trailer brakes. Sadly, anyone who follows his hole punching methods is going to have a wiring mess.

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Old 01-19-2013, 03:40 PM   #16
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Interesting video!
Gives a good basic understanding of 12v wiring principles.

But lest some think that boats/trailer wiring is the same in all important ways it should be pointed out that there's at least one big difference:

In most cases ground on RV trailers is white, and ground on boats is black.

Also, and maybe this is only true of the older trailers many of us have, but isn't 110v wiring aboard RV's usually solid "housewire" (Romex)?

Francesca
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:39 AM   #17
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I've always understood that 12v must be stranded wire as the electrons only travel on the outside of the wire...
No, the electrons move in the conductive material.

If the idea is that current moves only near the surface, this is skin effect; it has nothing to do with voltage, and it only applies at high frequency. It is unimportant at 60 Hz for small-gauge wires (anything in your house, car, or RV), and non-existent for direct current (of any voltage, in any size wire).

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... the electrons only travel on the outside of the wire and stranded wire offers more surface area for them to travel.
Even at a combination of high enough frequency and small enough conductors for skin effect to matter, bundling a bunch of bare wires together does no good at all because they just act as one big conductor - you would need to leave a gap or insulation between the parallel wires.

Wikipedia has a decent article on this subject: Skin effect

Stranding in low-frequency (and thus certainly DC) wiring is just for flexibility.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:26 PM   #18
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Thanks Brian - the Wikipedia article you refer to was very interesting. I had not understood the effect of frequency on the skin effect before.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:30 PM   #19
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Electrons, schmectrons! Everyone knows that the way electricity works is based on the conduction of smoke.

The proof is that whenever the smoke is allowed to escape from the wiring - like the time I crossed two hot circuits - the electricity stops working.
Don't let the smoke escape!
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:40 PM   #20
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RE: Romex... JMHO:

I have never heard of a problem with using properly installed Romex type wire in a trailer or a motorhome.

As boats, especially smaller ones, have a known source of engine vibration I can guess there is some concern, but not in a motorhome and certainly not in a trailer.

My rule of thumb is to anchor Romex type wire with screw down clamps at least every 16-18"



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