Scamp 16' Converter Problems

[camaertens]

Hello All,

So recently I plugged in my trailer to shore power and realized my battery was not being charged while plugged in. I figured it had to be something to do with the converter. Here is all that I have checked out thus far.

1. Checked all fuses and they were good. (Unless the filament can be connected and still be bad).

2. Unhooked the battery and saw what was being powered by the converter. Only the outlets worked. None of the 12v systems worked without the battery connected. Honestly, I don't know for sure if they are supposed to work with the battery disconnected.

3. Checked the plug that goes into the breaker box and the black and white wires for a connection. All was good.

Does this mean my converter is bad? Is there anything else I need to check? Thanks!

Craig

[TomK]

Craig, look at the controller in your street side dinette seat hatch. There is a 110 A/C outlet on the converter. There should be a cord from your shore power cord plugged into that outlet. It's probably laying on the floor next to the controller. They have a tendency to fall out from all the bouncing when rolling down the road. Some will tell you to bend the blades on the plug out to make it fit tighter. Floyd had a better idea and suggested hard wiring the cord into the controller. I will do that on the next trailer. Hope this helps...

TomK

[charleeb]

We had a similar problem with our 2015 Sixteen-footer. Shore power would run the A/C and the Refrigerator, but would not recharge the battery or power the 12-volt lights and pumps. I'm not that handy, so I took mine to a local RV shop. They troubleshooted/traced the problem to a "Ground-Fault" behind the power converter, which they repaired. We're good now.

As an aside -- for the couple of days our trailer sat on the lot at the RV shop, the owner said at least ten people came in asking about the SCAMP!!!

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by camaertens

Hello All,

So recently I plugged in my trailer to shore power and realized my battery was not being charged while plugged in. I figured it had to be something to do with the converter. Here is all that I have checked out thus far.

1. Checked all fuses and they were good. (Unless the filament can be connected and still be bad).

2. Unhooked the battery and saw what was being powered by the converter. Only the outlets worked. None of the 12v systems worked without the battery connected. Honestly, I don't know for sure if they are supposed to work with the battery disconnected.

3. Checked the plug that goes into the breaker box and the black and white wires for a connection. All was good.

Does this mean my converter is bad? Is there anything else I need to check? Thanks!

Craig

It's probably a grounding problem. No ground = no power to charge anything.

[sweendog]

I just had to replace the converter in my 2002 13' Scamp after hours of diagnostics to find the cause of multiple electrical problems . . . and a $875 bill, ouch! Now I'm wondering if we need to add one of those expensive surge protectors with "enhanced diagnostics." Any recommendations?

[rbryan]

Originally Posted by sweendog

I just had to replace the converter in my 2002 13' Scamp after hours of diagnostics to find the cause of multiple electrical problems . . . and a $875 bill, ouch! Now I'm wondering if we need to add one of those expensive surge protectors with "enhanced diagnostics." Any recommendations?

We're very happy with the Progressive Industries HW30C that was installed by the factory. It has shut down the power maybe 3 times in the last two years due to a power issue at the campground pole.

Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea

[sweendog]

Thanks Robert!

[clintonTN]

Craig etal;
Something you said in your post about fuses saved me a lot of hassle and money. Last time we took out our Scamp 16, the 12V-powered lights were pulsing and the red short-indicator light on the face of the American (Enterprises) voltage converter unit was lit up. One of the first things I did was look at the fuses and they all "looked" okay and I was finally convinced we needed a new converter. I just went back and looked very closely again at the fuses and, though none of them were obviously burnt through, one of the 20 amp fuses had a slight irregularity in the middle of the fusible link. I changed it and problems solved! Thanks! So I guess fuses can "look" okay yet still be bad.

[floyd]

What year is your Scamp?
What converter?

[clintonTN]

Floyd, We have a 2004 Scamp 16. The converter is an American Enterprise. I think it is the Model CS 3000 XL (30 amp) but not sure. Face-plate and spec. sheet list 4 models (12, 20, 30 and 35 amp) and no-one marked which of 4 models was installed. Johnny

[Byron Kinnaman]

Just for your information. I turned off my converter about 5 years and never turned it back on. My reasoning. When I traveling, that is moving my trailer to another campground the my truck is charging the battery. If I'm in one place for an extended period of time I use a 65Watt solar panel to top off the battery. All light are low current, mostly LED, except running lights which are powered by the tow vehicle. When at home I connect a Battery Minder to keep the battery charged. For at least the last 5 years this has worked for me.
The other thing is I'm never is an RV park or RV resort with hookups. Therefore the converter is of no use to me.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by clintonTN

Floyd, We have a 2004 Scamp 16. The converter is an American Enterprise. I think it is the Model CS 3000 XL (30 amp) but not sure. Face-plate and spec. sheet list 4 models (12, 20, 30 and 35 amp) and no-one marked which of 4 models was installed. Johnny

Mine is a 2004 with the same converter.
A few things to check...
1] pull the cover (one tiny screw on the cover) and check for giant dust bunnies.
2] if you have a side dinette your converter location prevents good ventilation and you should put a vent in the front of the seat in which the converter is installed.
3] plug the trailer in, and check the fan to see if it is running.
it is common for the fan to fail or get plugged up with dust.
That will overheat the board and if you are lucky it will blow the glass "Little Fuse" at the bottom center.
look carefully at the board, there is at least one aluminum heatsink. If the heatsink has fallen off the board, it has overheated and the board must be replaced.
If you replace the fuse and the board works without the fan, you can replace just the fan. or if the board is burned up you can replace the board without all that disassembly.
The best way is to buy the whole unit and just use the parts (a lot less work! and a lot cheaper!) It is almost certainly a 20A.
PM me if you like, you never know what I may have in the loft of my shop.
Once fixed be sure and remember the extra vent!
Note to EVERYONE who owns a side dinette with the converter in the bench... Install the extra vent before you have the problem.

OH! there is a little red LED on the cover which must be unplugged when removing the cover. Is it lit when on shore power?