Scamp - Fuse under bunk?

[Vinny D]

Hi There.

I am rewiring my entire Scamp 12v and 120v systems and I can't understand the role of the second fuse (12v black wire) located under the front bunk. What is the difference with the one already in the battery box?

My wiring diagram shows these two fuses but i've seen other diagrams (on this forum) only showing 1 fuse at the battery.

I also asked the question directly to Scamp and they recommended to just remove that second fuse.

What the hell is this "under-the-bunk-fuse" for!??

Thank you

Vinny.

[Casita Greg]

I don't have a Scamp, but in my Casita, there are two 30 Amp fuses in the Converter itself, which will blow to protect the Converter from Reverse Polarity wiring hook-ups if that were to occur. Could be something similar in function.

[Vinny D]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

I don't have a Scamp, but in my Casita, there are two 30 Amp fuses in the Converter itself, which will blow to protect the Converter from Reverse Polarity wiring hook-ups if that were to occur. Could be something similar in function.

Yes, i have these two on my converter as well. But i'm talking about those on the 12V circuits from the trailer battery and the vehicle battery. Shown on the left side of this diagram:

[CharlesinGA]

Virtually all trailers have two circuit protection devices. One on the wire from the battery to the 12v fuse panel, and the other on the incoming power from the 7 way plug.

Charles

[Vinny D]

Thanks Charles.
Isn't this fuse on the 7-way circuit redondant with the ones in the car? My car has dedicated fuses (x3?) for the hitch harness.

[CharlesinGA]

The ones I have seen were either auto reset circuit breakers or manual reset CB's. The Vehicle mfg provides one to protect the wire in the vehicle, back to the connector. They have no way of knowing the size of the wire in the trailer or the amp draw of the trailer, so they cannot provide for protection of trailer wiring.

By the same token, the trailer manufacturer has to provide for protection of the wires they installed, they don't know what the vehicle does or does not have in the circuit.

Pic is of a Bigfoot 25RQ. The red wires are from the trailer battery to the 12v fuse panel in the trailer, thru the Intellitec battery relay. The black wires are the 7way positive feed to the 12v fuse panel. They both have those gray circuit breakers, which have manual reset buttons in the RH end of them.

Sorry for the pics being sideways. They were provide to me, and while they are upright on my computer, they always come out sideways when uploaded. However, if you click to expand it, it will upright itself.

Charles

[computerspook]

I think a lot of this has to do with following code. But then again there is a saying that every line of the code is written in the blood of dead people. And there's a lot of Truth in that snarky comment.

I would suspect it has something to do with the fact you have a battery and a converter. Not sure that removing it is a very good idea. Although I did up mine under the bunk in the really b***** place to get to by 5 amps. That way I'm not going to have to worry about it unless I actually get into the situation where I really really needed it. In most cases the battery and or the converter fuse is going to blow before it does and so you're good to go.

[Tomcat58]

Originally Posted by Vinny D

Hi There.

I am rewiring my entire Scamp 12v and 120v systems and I can't understand the role of the second fuse (12v black wire) located under the front bunk. What is the difference with the one already in the battery box?

My wiring diagram shows these two fuses but i've seen other diagrams (on this forum) only showing 1 fuse at the battery.

I also asked the question directly to Scamp and they recommended to just remove that second fuse.

What the hell is this "under-the-bunk-fuse" for!??

Thank you

Vinny.

First test the wire to see if it has power with a test light. Disconnect the fuse and see what no longer works ! Everyone that owns a rv should have a $10 12 volt tester....

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Tomcat58

First test the wire to see if it has power with a test light. Disconnect the fuse and see what no longer works ! Everyone that owns a rv should have a $10 12 volt tester....

Maybe $20 to get a good one and then get clip on leads. ;-)


OK My profession so I have one in the Scamp that is about $100. But that because the Scamp goes to out of state jobs and that way I have backup for the one in my tool backpack. But probably $10 would not really get a good one.

[Tomcat58]

Originally Posted by computerspook

Maybe $20 to get a good one and then get clip on leads. ;-)


OK My profession so I have one in the Scamp that is about $100. But that because the Scamp goes to out of state jobs and that way I have backup for the one in my tool backpack. But probably $10 would not really get a good one.

My point is that a simple affordable tool can make finding and fixing electrical rv problems much easier. https://www.amazon.com/Anyongora-Aut...%2C264&sr=8-10

[computerspook]

I just find that very limiting. And someone with a camper should be able to work one of these, at least of they check it out before they have a problem and it can give you A LOT MORE answers than yours. For one thing it can check AC voltages. And it can check fuses a lot easier than yours.


https://www.amazon.com/Crenova-Auto-...5-5db9f871bef5

Then I also would get something like this to check outlets at camp sites and etc



https://www.menards.com/main/electri....htm?exp=false

Just make sure you have enough testing ability to get good answers.