Setting up a System - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-11-2020, 05:57 PM   #21
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Name: Larry
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A shunt does not draw any current unless a load is connected and drawing power as it is in series with the loads.
A general rule is about as many watts of solar as amp,hours of batttery. If you are not tilting your panels or use the unit in the winter double is better. I’d say you will be fine. It does depend on how you,use your power though.
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Old 07-12-2020, 05:55 AM   #22
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Great for a home, but to carry all this would be a burden.....
I carry one 75 watt panel; one large deep cycle battery and one inverter mounted inside the trailer. When we camp, we put out the panel while we are around and we point in the direction which the controller tells me. If we go out somewhere, we have a chain and lock to lock the panel to the trailer hitch. I have 12 years experience with solar system and have built a fair size system for the house.
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:01 PM   #23
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Name: Mel
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Texas
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My system has only three parts usually installable or transferable in 4 hours:
A. POWER MANAGER holds the solar control, 50A converter, logic, positive buss bar, negative buss bar, and single 11-terminal connection strip. All Battery and Solar controller info sent to free phone app. All control through B. below.
B. CHARGE SELECTOR SWITCH: A 3-position toggle switch
C. POWER PACK with 125Ah Smart Battery, Anderson plug connection, two accessary plugs, and 60A trolling motor connection. Use for RV, trade booths, tailgating, inverters, etc. Battery is equipped with Bluetooth to display SOC, Cycles used, Volts, Current, cell-by-cell voltages.
Private Message me if interested in the system info and my latest newsletter "Hard RV Battery Questions". System proven in 10 wks of Boondocking to Alaska and Canada this time last year. Happy Boondocking!
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Old 07-12-2020, 09:06 PM   #24
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Good to know. The shunt does have a battery meter that must draw some power so I will install a switch to cut it off when not needed.



Many of the systems have already been installed in the camper and have been working great for several few years.


This luxury glamping pod isn't being designed to rough it out but I am designing it to be capable non-the-less.



As far as space management, I am building a tongue box to hold most of the other electrical equipment in my design, so not to take up any additional storage space inside the camper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lhunter View Post
A shunt does not draw any current unless a load is connected and drawing power as it is in series with the loads.
A general rule is about as many watts of solar as amp,hours of batttery. If you are not tilting your panels or use the unit in the winter double is better. I’d say you will be fine. It does depend on how you,use your power though.
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:01 AM   #25
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This is a great system, but, beyond most campers and the average Joe to run....I can imagine the cost... but, how would you get two deep-cycle batteries in a Boler trailer box outside, as it is not allowed inside the trailer....??? I could barely get the battery and propane tank in the hitch box...
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:43 AM   #26
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Name: Gowyn
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Originally Posted by Markz View Post
Good to know. The shunt does have a battery meter that must draw some power so I will install a switch to cut it off when not needed.



Many of the systems have already been installed in the camper and have been working great for several few years.


This luxury glamping pod isn't being designed to rough it out but I am designing it to be capable non-the-less.



As far as space management, I am building a tongue box to hold most of the other electrical equipment in my design, so not to take up any additional storage space inside the camper.

Gotta ask, what is the copper thing? Some sort of coffee maker?
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:58 AM   #27
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I looked at the photos.....having trouble nailing it down that you see....
Only thing I can think of is the two infrared hot plates that require magnetic pots to work....
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:05 AM   #28
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I looked at the photos.....having trouble nailing it down that you see....
Only thing I can think of is the two infrared hot plates that require magnetic pots to work....
Haha. Copper coloured container with a spigot on the top with small gauge on it. Handles on the side too.
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:47 AM   #29
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I'm looking at all the pics....the only thing that comes close to your info is the toilet or the water bottle with a spigot on top and a thermometer gauge leaning on the bottle. My best guess is the bottle which we buy for the trips. It is safer than drinking the campgrounds water. Sheezz, that was a task. Would love to see your project when done...too bad you're in Ontario right now. Folks from outside the Atlantic bubble are not allowed inside, yet. H
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:25 AM   #30
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Gotta ask, what is the copper thing? Some sort of coffee maker?
UKeg from Growlerwerks, 64oz Growler
https://www.growlerwerks.com/
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:30 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ln41211 View Post
This is a great system, but, beyond most campers and the average Joe to run....I can imagine the cost... but, how would you get two deep-cycle batteries in a Boler trailer box outside, as it is not allowed inside the trailer....??? I could barely get the battery and propane tank in the hitch box...
It takes a lot of aluminum welding and creative thinking but it does fit. I'll have pictures up soon of that part of the project.
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:22 AM   #32
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Sneak peek at the box. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-14-2020, 10:37 AM   #33
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I will be placing a peice of plexiglass over the Reflectix on the battery box door as Reflectix is conductive. However, all battery connections will be sealed in rubber and plastic.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:59 PM   #34
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Added the plexi and laying out the electrical board.
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I will be placing a peice of plexiglass over the Reflectix on the battery box door as Reflectix is conductive. However, all battery connections will be sealed in rubber and plastic.
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Old 07-21-2020, 10:09 PM   #35
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Building the battery heating system during a heat wave. Both batteries will have heating pads on a thermostat. Heating pads may be used on the LP tank as well. Still thinking through this... ATTACH]136167[/ATTACH]Click image for larger version

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Old 07-22-2020, 05:27 AM   #36
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since there is a power meter, the shunt will be drawing power, and it will kill the battery.
I made that mistake with my Xantrex power meter and shunt, it took only about 4 days to run the battery to a very low point. That is why I mentioned putting in a switch

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Old 07-22-2020, 08:34 AM   #37
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Too much is never enough! Are you thinking about running for office?
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:36 AM   #38
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I will be using a switch to shut it off when in storage. Thank you, I didn't know.
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Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald View Post
since there is a power meter, the shunt will be drawing power, and it will kill the battery.
I made that mistake with my Xantrex power meter and shunt, it took only about 4 days to run the battery to a very low point. That is why I mentioned putting in a switch

Joe
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:15 AM   #39
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A shunt will not drain the battery as it is in series (usually in the negative lead) and draws no power itself. The voltmeter and control electronics would draw some power, but not much.
A shunt is only a very low resistance carefully calibrated, that a meter reads the voltage drop across in the millivolt range. No voltage drop if there is no load. no power loss other than the power to operate the control and monitoring system. You should see the parasitic load and look for what is causing it to be excessive.
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Old 07-22-2020, 10:25 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
A shunt will not drain the battery as it is in series (usually in the negative lead) and draws no power itself. The voltmeter and control electronics would draw some power, but not much.
A shunt is only a very low resistance carefully calibrated, that a meter reads the voltage drop across in the millivolt range. No voltage drop if there is no load. no power loss other than the power to operate the control and monitoring system. You should see the parasitic load and look for what is causing it to be excessive.
this!

to kill a single RV battery in 4 days, you'd need to be drawing a constant 1 amp. a dual golf cart battery, about 2-3 amps. the 'volt meter' and display part of the battery monitor MIGHT be drawing 0.01 amps, that might draw battery down in a year.

so, something else was drawing power to kill your battery, NOT the battery monitor, unless it was grossly defective.
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