Simple(?) Boler Electrical Options - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-28-2020, 10:10 PM   #1
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Name: Ben
Trailer: Boler
Alberta
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Simple(?) Boler Electrical Options

Hello, I am a brand new owner of a '74 13' Boler trailer. I'll be towing the trailer with a Subaru Outback 3.6R. The main reason why I jumped on purchasing this Boler is that it came with a rebuilt frame and trailer brakes. Electrical components confuse me in terms on amps and volts and all that jazz so please be gentle. Basically (i'm pretty sure), the Boler has a interior plug for 120v service, and an upgraded 12v deep-cycle battery powered service for interior lights, mini-fridge, and water pump (why?). All the electrical components were working fine, but today have stopped working... I bought the Boler a week ago. I've attached the solar panel to the Coleman 7 amp charge controller for about 4 hours, and no LED lights on the controller turned on.. There's a little led test light that you can plug directly into the solar panel which DOES turn to indicate that the solar panel is functioning. Any thoughts on what could be going wrong?
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Old 05-28-2020, 11:46 PM   #2
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
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What voltage is at the battery?

Did you run the battery down or blow a fuse? After years of modifications it is hard to help, Most RVs have three electrical systems. One for the lights that DOT requires for the road and to run the brakes, that comes from the 7-pin car connector. Second is the 12-volt battery powered interior lights and fan and water pump. This is the one you need to test for power. The third is the 120 Volts that you plug into. Most RVs will power the interior lights, fan and a converter to charge the battery with that 120-volt cord. If you do not have a voltmeter, Harbor Freight sells one for about $6. (The refrigerator may run on 120 volts. 12 volts, or gas depending on the model.) (and the water pump pumps water from the fresh water tank to the sink if so equipped.)
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Old 05-29-2020, 04:32 AM   #3
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Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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You must keep track of your battery voltage. This is the most basic indication of how much power, if any, is available. And it will help you keep your battery from failing very early in its life.

You don't mention if you have a battery charger, besides the solar. If not, go get a cheap automotive one at Walmart of about 6-15 amps. If one is already built into the trailer, find out how to turn it on.

Go get a simple and cheap volt ohm meter at Home Depot and learn how to check battery voltage, or get a cigarette lighter volt meter from Amazon and plug it in. If you have no battery charger, get one and get it hooked up before your battery is ruined. You can also connect a set of jumper cables from the car battery to the trailer battery, as a test. If things start working, your batter was/is dead. If not, something else is the problem and you need help.

These things are the most basic starting points, and are critical to trailer ownership where any 12 volt power is being used.

You have to budget your power use to not exceed the available power, just as you cannot just drive your car without re-fueling it.

If you don't put fuel in the car, it will stop running. The gas gauge indicates how much you have. Same thing with the battery. The battery must be "re-fueled" to keep working. The volt meter is your fuel gauge.
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Old 05-29-2020, 07:02 AM   #4
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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Originally Posted by LeadBenny View Post
...the Boler has...an upgraded 12v deep-cycle battery powered service for interior lights, mini-fridge, and water pump (why?). All the electrical components were working fine, but today have stopped working... I bought the Boler a week ago. .
..if you were running a mini fridge for a week without an outside source of power or charging the battery then the battery is dead.

So, dead battery and/or blow fuse.
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