These Solar Generators Are So Confusing

[joecf]

I have an Indel B65 12 vdc compressor fridge. - Dan Foss compressor — .my current current draw is .1 amp sitting idle and 2.1 amp with compressor running — .4 amp interior light. This is based on the readings of a Victron smart shunt.

[Jamie June]

My trailer doesn't have a battery and I don't think it ever did, my grandparents used shore power at campgrounds. I am having trouble with some of my interior lights and am considering rewiring, changing the fixtures to LEDs and updating the power converter. If I do that, it seems to make sense to add a battery and some kind of solar possibilities, or at least setting it up so that could be added. Seems like a 100Ah Lithium battery runs around 1000$ USD and one of those Jackery or portable type ones runs approx the same. One of those has it's charger on board and you don't have to get a separate one, and can those still be plugged in to run your interior lights and outlets? Wouldn't it make sense to just get one of those all in one? I'm probably missing something but would love to hear your take on it. https://www.amazon.com/EF-ECOFLOW-Po...-2-spons&psc=1

[John in Santa Cruz]

the power converter *is* a charger. if you're going to go lithium, you want a power converter like a PD46xx that has the lithium mode jumper.

[Jamie June]

So if I want to set up/fix wiring now, and plan to add battery and potentially solar later, what are some converters I should consider? My original 1978 one is a Progressive Dynamics "Solid State" that I guess all the Trilliums had.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Solar is nearly always a separate module, two wires to the solar panels themselves, and 2 wires to the battery.

re: power center, I don't know if you can get a modern converter that fits in your old power center. This is a complete power center, with a 45A converter, lithium or lead acid compatible, AC distribution breakers, up to 12 fused DC circuits, etc.
https://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4000-series/