Trillium 74 - Propane/Smoke/Monoxide detector suggestions

[wysiwyg]

Hey guys,
I bought a Trillium 74 one month ago. It has a gravity furnace, 3 way fridge and a stove. All three are working but are old. Since I have absolutely zero knowledge on how to verify the security of those appliances, I decided to start by buying detectors.

I would like to have some thoughts on what to buy for the monoxide/fire detector.

Right now, I have this for propane already installed:
https://www.amazon.ca/MTI-Industries...mti+industries

I was going to buy this for monoxide:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...K6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Or is it best to buy both fire and monoxide all in one but without display screen?
https://www.amazon.ca/First-Alert-Op...+alarm+battery

Please let me know if you have any thoughts on those products and if you have any hints on what to check before leaving on a trip to increase safety.

Thanks alot for your inputs,

[Jon in AZ]

Smoke alarm should be mounted high and LP detector low, so they should be separate. CO is neutral in relation to air, so it's less picky. It is sometimes combined with the LP detector.

[J Ron]

Follow what Jon said. Propane is heavier than air and hot gases from fire go up.

[Carl V]

My trailer didn't have any detectors. I installed a combined LP/CO detector. It is mounted near the floor, as LP is heavier than air, but CO readily mixes with air and will be detected at just about any height if present.

[Gilles]

Do not forget, the propane gas sensor must be replaced every five years.
I have the same model that you present ..

[Mike_L]

Propane is much heavier than air and will collect near the floor so the sensor should be located about four inches above the floor. Carbon monoxide has a similar density to air so the placement of this sensor isn't as critical. Smoke detectors use optical density and aren't necessary in a trailer.
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for maintenance and replacement as these sensors have a definite life span.

[wysiwyg]

Thanks guys for your feedback,

Here is the monoxide alarm I bought:
https://www.rvpartscanada.com/index....5#.WaWXWiiGMuU

Also, from your comments and from what I have read online, the placement dont seem to matter so much for the CO. At first, I thought about installing it in the upper part of the kitchenette but I'm not quite sure how I would hide the wires.

Here is where I installed my propane and USB:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ldg3502vz...ector.jpg?dl=0

And finally, here is where I intend to install the CO detector - Photoshop (I might have to move the USB and Propane detector to the left and redo the wood plank). This way, all the wires come from the same place!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/39b47p82yu...ector.jpg?dl=0

Does that makes sense?

Thanks again!

[Jon in AZ]

Looks good. Have to say, though, that's a lot of money for the CO detector, when you can get a basic battery-powered unit for around $15-20 from a big box store. But it won't be neatly flush-mounted like yours.

[wysiwyg]

Hey Jon,

You are probably right, and its probably too late (already ordered).

In fact, while reading articles about detectors, I have read that I need a CO detector designed specifically for RV because the readings would vary depending if its a home versus a small trailer (which I thought made sense).

Is that true? I'm not sure. Although, I figured that having something designed for a trailer would feel more safe (using 42 years old propane appliances that I dont even know how to maintain) :-)

Thanks for your feedback!

[Jon in AZ]

If so, that's a new one to me (which proves nothing). Scamp installs the basic battery-powered kind on their new trailers (which may not prove anything, either).

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by wysiwyg

Hey Jon,

You are probably right, and its probably too late (already ordered).

In fact, while reading articles about detectors, I have read that I need a CO detector designed specifically for RV because the readings would vary depending if its a home versus a small trailer (which I thought made sense).

Is that true? I'm not sure. Although, I figured that having something designed for a trailer would feel more safe (using 42 years old propane appliances that I dont even know how to maintain) :-)

Thanks for your feedback!

You are wiser than you think. Yes detectors for RV's are better. Some are the same for house and RV and it should say for RV use. A smoke alarm is a complete necessity also. We just came back from a rally that had a class on alarms. The smoke detector is so needed because the smoke will kill you before you wake up if sleeping. You only have about 2 minutes to wake up and get out if a fire starts and maybe less if it is a small trailer. We mounted a smoke alarm above the side dinette in our Casita. In an RV a smoke detector for them is necessary. An ionization and heat detector is needed. If the fire is smoldering say in a cushion you can die of the toxins but the alarms will wake you. If it is hot heat then you better be getting out immediately. I've seen fires in RV's and it's not pretty. They are rarely saved. We also carry 3 fire extinguishers in the foam type. The dry type allow a fire to restart, is very toxic and you can't never clean up the mess. We learned all this from Mac the Fire Guy that has done speaking on this subject for years. He is now retiring because he didn't use breathing apparatus in his programs when he used powder extinguishers showing the difference and it destroyed his lungs. This is proof how toxic powder extinguishers are. You can look him up under the above name. We've seen his programs 3 times across the country and believe him above anyone else especially someone saying a smoke alarm is not needed. In our motor home we have smoke alarms by the bed, on the ceiling above the dinette and one is going in just above the engine area. All in a 21 1/2 ft unit. I'd rather be safe than dead. Our friends lost their 34 ft class A due to a fire underneath it. Four extinguishers of the powder type were emptied but the fire kept restarting. They were driving and they said they had about 2-3 minutes to stop and get out. They lost everything in their RV except their lives. Get a good RV alarm and foam extinguishers. At least if a small fire started you might have a small chance to save the trailer.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by wysiwyg

...In fact, while reading articles about detectors, I have read that I need a CO detector designed specifically for RV because the readings would vary depending if its a home versus a small trailer (which I thought made sense)...

Originally Posted by Jann Todd

You are wiser than you think. Yes detectors for RV's are better...

Being the kind of person who always asks why, I did a little searching. The answer that seemed clearest and most factual was here:
Choosing a CO Alarm

According to the article, the main reason for choosing an RV-rated unit is the sensor is designed and UL tested to operate in "unconditioned" spaces. It will perform as designed in extremes of temperatures to which RVs in storage are subject- think winter storage in Calgary and summer storage in Phoenix.

I read in the manual for my (non-RV-rated) CO detector that it should not be exposed to extremes of temperature because it shortens the sensor life. That appears consistent with the information in the article. Because of that I have always removed and stored it in the house when we're not camping (battery in the fridge to prolong its life). Of course, that adds a step to the preparation for a trip, but it also means I never forget to check the battery and expiration date and test the alarm at the beginning of every trip. I am comfortable that I am adequately protected.

The bulk of the article, and a number of other sources I found, put more emphasis on the type of detector. A higher quality unit that has a readout indicating when low levels of CO are present (below the threshold for an alarm) is a good thing, since long-term exposure to even low levels of CO is cumulative. That might be something to consider if you full-time or spend long months in your trailer.

I love this forum! It raises questions I wouldn't have thought to ask, and I am learning so much.

[Glenn Baglo]

Last I read on batteries said not to refrigerate or freeze them, which is what I used to do.

[Jon in AZ]

Seems you're right, Glenn, although there is little harm in it, as long as the batteries warm up to room temperature when placed in service- condensation inside an electronic device isn't good. Since our house sometimes gets quite warm when we're out of town, there may be some small benefit as well.
Battery Myths vs. Facts

An added benefit is I always know where to find them!

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Being the kind of person who always asks why, I did a little searching. The answer that seemed clearest and most factual was here:
Choosing a CO Alarm

According to the article, the main reason for choosing an RV-rated unit is the sensor is designed and UL tested to operate in "unconditioned" spaces. It will perform as designed in extremes of temperatures to which RVs in storage are subject- think winter storage in Calgary and summer storage in Phoenix.

I read in the manual for my (non-RV-rated) CO detector that it should not be exposed to extremes of temperature because it shortens the sensor life. That appears consistent with the information in the article. Because of that I have always removed and stored it in the house when we're not camping (battery in the fridge to prolong its life). Of course, that adds a step to the preparation for a trip, but it also means I never forget to check the battery and expiration date and test the alarm at the beginning of every trip. I am comfortable that I am adequately protected.

The bulk of the article, and a number of other sources I found, put more emphasis on the type of detector. A higher quality unit that has a readout indicating when low levels of CO are present (below the threshold for an alarm) is a good thing, since long-term exposure to even low levels of CO is cumulative. That might be something to consider if you full-time or spend long months in your trailer.

I love this forum! It raises questions I wouldn't have thought to ask, and I am learning so much.

Great information. We talked to Mac the Fire Guy at a rally and some of the CO detectors are ok but doesn't say for RV's because of the cost of testing. The Kidde is good. That is what he sells. We've know of Mac for at least 15 years and have been to several of his classes. If things change he updates his class. This is where we learned about foam fire extinguishers vs dry type. The dry type has damaged Mac's lungs to the point he has had to retire. He used them in a demo.

[wysiwyg]

Thanks guys for all your answers. Something I realized is that many detectors seems to be exactly the same from the outside (casing, screen, vents, buttons, fonts) but under different company names.

Here is an example:
Kidde battery operated CO 20$
http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/...kn-copp-b-lpm/

Atwood 32703 60$
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...wZSqceOyCMLpag

While they look the same, the Atwood claims to be suited for RV and work under extreme conditions. I guess the sensor is different? 3 times the price of the Kidde.