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Old 06-19-2018, 04:18 PM   #1
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Using automotive primary wire for 30a outlet

Hello community,

Looking for some advice.
I have a 30a receptacle port that will be connected from its backside to the ground, and neutral bus bars in my converter, hot being connected to a single pole 30a circuit breaker.

I understand that you can run 30a on a 10 gauge wire but will be using 8 gauge just to be more careful as I have some kicking around. The distance from the plug to the converter is less than 3ft.

The 8 gauge wire I have is your standard primary wire used for all 12v wiring.

My question is, will this be acceptable? Or will I need to go out and grab some of that rigid romex style wiring?

Thanks for your thoughts!
-MarkClick image for larger version

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Old 06-19-2018, 04:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fofobraselio View Post
Hello community,

Looking for some advice.
I have a 30a receptacle port that will be connected from its backside to the ground, and neutral bus bars in my converter, hot being connected to a single pole 30a circuit breaker.

I understand that you can run 30a on a 10 gauge wire but will be using 8 gauge just to be more careful as I have some kicking around. The distance from the plug to the converter is less than 3ft.

The 8 gauge wire I have is your standard primary wire used for all 12v wiring.

My question is, will this be acceptable? Or will I need to go out and grab some of that rigid romex style wiring?

Thanks for your thoughts!
-MarkAttachment 120760



Inside the trailer ALL wiring should be automotive. The insulation is the main reason. Automotive wire does NOT sustain fire, that's whey it's used in automobiles and it's a good idea to do the same in our trailers.
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Old 06-19-2018, 04:40 PM   #3
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Make sure that both the connector & Converter terminals (and the breaker) are rated for stranded wire. Generally, not a problem...
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:24 PM   #4
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Your photo shows a male receptacle . The receptacle should be a female otherwise the exposed metal prongs will be energized . A very dangerous and hazardous issue .
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Your photo shows a male receptacle . The receptacle should be a female otherwise the exposed metal prongs will be energized . A very dangerous and hazardous issue .
ahhh.. the male side is on the camper, no? And the female side on the shore power cord.... Unless I missed something.
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Your photo shows a male receptacle . The receptacle should be a female otherwise the exposed metal prongs will be energized . A very dangerous and hazardous issue .
I will be connecting to the female of this receptacle.should have posted this.
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:45 PM   #7
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Thanks for the advice folks. Much appreciated
Happy camping / renovating
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:50 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by fofobraselio View Post
I will be connecting to the female of this receptacle.should have posted this.
Attachment 120761
The connection terminals are not the issue
If you plug an extension cord into the outlet you pictured the prongs on the male end of the extension cord will be exposed and energized
Again if the outlet is fed hot you need a female receptacle !!!!
Your picture shows a male receptacle
Are the receptacles in your house male or female ???
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:56 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by fofobraselio View Post
I will be connecting to the female of this receptacle.should have posted this.
Attachment 120761
That is the side of the receptacle that is inside the camper right? With the male side on the outside of the camper, and that the shore power cord plugs into? No problem then.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:05 PM   #10
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Correct if you are using the part shown as an inlet
I have seen people add twistlok male receptacles to there trailer and fed them from a 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker . Thusly when the trailer was plugged into shore power or an inverter the exposed metal prongs were hot
The way I misread your post that is what you were attempting to do
I was wrong and I apologize
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:10 PM   #11
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Correct if you are using the part shown as an inlet
..
Make sure you are using it as Steve describes.. he's a great authority on RV electrical.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:14 PM   #12
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I am reading this right? You are going to run 120 volts ac through wire that is rated for 12vdc? If it were mine I would go buy a spool of wire properly rated for the correct voltage and amperage. You don't need to Romex you can get wire that is just a single conductor.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Inside the trailer ALL wiring should be automotive. The insulation is the main reason. Automotive wire does NOT sustain fire, that's whey it's used in automobiles and it's a good idea to do the same in our trailers.
Any wire with csa or ul listing will not support fire either. That's why we use it in your house.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:21 PM   #14
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Normal building wire is rated for 600 volts and is labeled as such
I would just use # 10 THW or THWN / THHN stranded copper wire.
For added mechanical protection you may want to enclose the wires in Carlon smurf tube which also is flame resistant
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:34 PM   #15
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Why not just use a small section of your 30A shore power cord?
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:40 PM   #16
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Why not just use a small section of your 30A shore power cord?
For the same reason the outlets in your trailer use NM cable (Romex )
The NEC states that cord is not be used as a permanent wiring method or in concealed locations . The service entrance cord is an exception to the rule .
The insulation on cords has a bad habit of drying out and failing , that’s why it is supposed to be exposed and open to visual examination / inspection .
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:47 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Doug Arthurs View Post
I am reading this right? You are going to run 120 volts ac through wire that is rated for 12vdc? If it were mine I would go buy a spool of wire properly rated for the correct voltage and amperage. You don't need to Romex you can get wire that is just a single conductor.

Misunderstanding going on here.
The voltage rating only refers the maximum voltage you can have a wire next to another wire. It's the point where arching can occur. Not all but most 12vdc automotive wire is rated for 500 to 600volts. The maximum voltage in 120 volt ac circuit is about 174 volts. (peak voltage = RMS voltage x 1.414)


The maximum voltage should be printed on the insulation.
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Old 06-19-2018, 07:48 PM   #18
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Why not just use a small section of your 30A shore power cord?



Will it sustain fire. If so don't use it.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:52 PM   #19
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the marine wire I use for DC wiring is rated for 600V. its 12/2 stranded, and I'll use it for up to 30A DC circuits as long as the run isn't too long.
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:13 PM   #20
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Will it sustain fire. If so don't use it.
It is the OEM wiring on nearly every trailer including yours.
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