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Old 05-04-2012, 09:04 PM   #21
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Name: richie
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some have that Lighted switch---my cassie doesn't,, but Radio shack sell them---and if your's had a lighted, they Have the Bulbs for them.
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:24 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Large led warning light for the shower sump (Scamp), .
Gezzz Floyd isnt the fact your feet are getting wet a good enough warning to you????
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:50 PM   #23
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Gezzz Floyd isnt the fact your feet are getting wet a good enough warning to you????
The light for the shower pump is on the bulkhead next to the microwave, to remind me to shut it off after a shower. It can only be seen when outside the head...
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Old 05-05-2012, 07:59 AM   #24
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The light for the shower pump is on the bulkhead next to the microwave, to remind me to shut it off after a shower. It can only be seen when outside the head...
That's interesting! Did you add the light? as mine does not have a light and the switch is on the bulkhead in the bathroom. When the pump is on there is no way you could forget to turn it off as it is very loud! What brand of pump do you have?
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:41 AM   #25
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That's interesting! Did you add the light? as mine does not have a light and the switch is on the bulkhead in the bathroom. When the pump is on there is no way you could forget to turn it off as it is very loud! What brand of pump do you have?
I added the light. The back of the switch is in the closet behind the light and is easy to access. Both the shower pump and the freshwater pump are Scamp factory issue Shurflo brand. If we were not running anything else,like A/C, television, stereo, and the ambient noise was low, we could hear ours as well.

Hearing can be selective as well,I have nine mostly antique face wound clocks running in my house. That which is, to visitors, a cacophony on the hour, is often missed by those who are enured to the sound, or even those enamored with the clocks and determined to listen!
I don't think the pumps are inherently noisy, rather I think they must induce a vibration into the structure around them to produce significant noise. Maybe your pump could be as quiet as a mouse pad by simply mounting one under the pump... but then you might need to add the light!

I plan to change the switch on the freshwater pump to one with a built-in LED to prevent accidently leaving it on, since it shuts off under pressure and there is no need to assume that unnecessary wear or risk in the event of a leak.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:11 AM   #26
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Both the shower pump and the freshwater pump are Scamp factory issue Shurflo brand. If we were not running anything else,like A/C, television, stereo, and the ambient noise was low, we could hear ours as well.

<cut>
I plan to change the switch on the freshwater pump to one with a built-in LED to prevent accidently leaving it on, since it shuts off under pressure and there is no need to assume that unnecessary wear or risk in the event of a leak.
Thanks Floyd - I am actually considering switching out my pumps for newer models as I thought they may not be as loud & as mine are the originals they may be getting close to the end of their shelf life. Rather not have them fail while out on the road.

Agree the fresh water pump is an issue as it only makes a sound when its first turned on and after that only when I run water. So its an easy one to forget about it & as its located under the back seat area the sound is somewhat buffered. The shower pump on mine on the other hand is much louder and it seems to run on and not shut down even when there doesn't appear to be any water left in the shower area - I tend to shut it off manually before leaving the shower so I am not sure if I was to leave it running if it would ever stop pumping or not, I have never left it running as when I use the shower in the trailer it is usually because I am camping in a location without power and I dont want to run the battery down more than necessary using the pump. Now you have me thinking that I should test it at home one day to see if it will actually stop pumping at some point on its own.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:44 AM   #27
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I have a few electrical features I like: two batteries with shut-offs, LED llighting, stereo/TV, Speakon 12v outlets, heated towel warmer, true sine-wave inverter, shutoff switch for solar panel , etc.

I also wired the incoming AC with a shut off switch after an always-on outlet. That way I can have lights, etc. while safely working on the wiring. The battery shutoffs do not shut off the stereo (keeping the memory settings intact).

My favorite quirky mod is the set of redundant pushbuttons next to the bed which control the heating systems, one degree at a time (hacked into the digital thermostats).

After all that, the most fundamental device which makes things possible is the Xantrex Link 10 battery meter. Makes things electrical clear and takes anxiety out of boondocking and such.
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:52 AM   #28
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Thanks Floyd - I am actually considering switching out my pumps for newer models as I thought they may not be as loud & as mine are the originals they may be getting close to the end of their shelf life. Rather not have them fail while out on the road.

Agree the fresh water pump is an issue as it only makes a sound when its first turned on and after that only when I run water. So its an easy one to forget about it & as its located under the back seat area the sound is somewhat buffered. The shower pump on mine on the other hand is much louder and it seems to run on and not shut down even when there doesn't appear to be any water left in the shower area - I tend to shut it off manually before leaving the shower so I am not sure if I was to leave it running if it would ever stop pumping or not, I have never left it running as when I use the shower in the trailer it is usually because I am camping in a location without power and I dont want to run the battery down more than necessary using the pump. Now you have me thinking that I should test it at home one day to see if it will actually stop pumping at some point on its own.
The shower pump , pumps through an open line to the gray water tank, it will not pressure-up the line and will run (wet or dry) as long as the switch is on and the battery/converter supplies power.
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Old 05-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #29
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My favourite electrical changes would be the addition of the AM100 solar panel in 2005, change over to LED lights a year or so later (a mix of bright white, warm white, and amber), and the addition of two more batteries to a total of three. I have also added a rear backup camera which will be changed out to a night vision one, a security camera near the door, and additional inside and outside 120V and 12VDC outlets. Sitting in the shop is another 100W solar panel to be mounted to act as a window awning when deployed and a small vertical wind generator to be used when I am setup for an extended period.
One of these days I'll get the small solar battery tender attached to the suntracker installed. Meanwhile they are nestled down in their boxes on the work bench.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #30
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Some of my favorites came as options when I purchased the Escape 17. I have a 95 watt solar panel & LED lighting, as well as dual 6V batteries, and the electric option for the hot water heater.

I did do some additions & modifications - My old eyes that like to read small print paperback books convinced me to change out the LED fixtures over the bed & front dinette to dual LED Fixtures. Twice the light at the push of a switch.

I completely agree with Donna on Coffee. I really like drip coffee, and although I know there are gas stove versions, I opted to add a 1000W sine wave inverter. I pretend it is for anything I might want to use it for but it is really there to make one pot of coffee in the mornings I don't have hookups.

I've also added some receptacles, both AC & 12V to the places I found made more sense than I planned them for when I had the trailer built.

I already had a battery disconnect switch installed by Escape, however I added a much larger one (200 amp) for the inverter.

I added some LED lighting strips, one outside along the awning & short lengths in each overhead cabinet. A page describing these and some other modifications is here.

If you are not into cell phone & internet connections, you can skip this:
Because I maintain a travel & RV web page & daily updates to a blog & travel page on my site, I wanted dependable internet connections on the road. On top of that I am really addicted to my Oswego NPR station, WRVO. Since they have an app that lets me listen to it anywhere I have the internet, that's even more reason for good connections.

I have a Wilson Sleek in my RAV4 that boosts the signal to my AT&T iPhone, and a combination of a Wilson Trucker/RV antenna & their Vehicle Booster Kit in the trailer. The booster kit has an amp, exterior & interior antenna. If you are within 5'-7' of the internal antenna, you have a boosted signal on most cell phones & 3G data.

I use Millenicom USB modem - while no longer advertised, I have a 20GB per month 3G connection no contract through the Verizon network for $60.00 per month, including fees & taxes. The USB modem is plugged into a WiFi Ranger router which provides a local network around the trailer & tow vehicle that gets an internet connection from either the modem or a campground WiFi. You choose which ever is best. The signal is strong enough that if I don't have an AT&T signal while driving, I can use theWiFi signal from the router & cell modem (everything is 12V powered).
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:23 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
WHat's the purpose of a battery disconnect?
I use an inline fuse holder (looks like the one in the picture below) as a battery cut off switch, attached right at the battery positive terminal. That way I can cut off all the power from the battery to every circuit in the trailer without wondering if I have missed anything, by pulling the fuse. In the trailer I have a fused circuit box for my 4 Ė 12V circuits, but no master switch on that. This inline fuse operating as a master switch is quite convenient when I am working on stuff. It is also small and relatively weatherproof, so it fits into the battery box without any trouble, unlike an actual master switch that I was going to use for the purpose. I also like having yet another fuse on my circuitry just in case I get an unexpected short circuit somewhere.

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