Wires Won't Stay in Charge Controller

[Huck]

Originally Posted by sarahspins

I am using 10g wires for my solar connections, battery connections, as well as my load to the the fuse block, so everything connected my charge controller is 10g.

Including from the terminal block to the charge controller?

[sarahspins]

Yes, they are only about 6" apart.

[Huck]

Originally Posted by sarahspins

Yes, they are only about 6" apart.

Are you saying the 6" cables are 10 gauge?

[sarahspins]

Yes... longer 10g wires (from solar, battery, and fuse block) to terminal block, additional 6" length of 10g wires go between the terminal block and charge controller.

I can take pictures later if it's not making sense... but long story short, I had mine originally wired up to a different (very cheap) charge controller that accepted #8 ring terminals, so that's how I originally did my wiring.. the terminal block was my quick solution to not wanting to just cut those ring terminals off. I'm happier with the arrangement though, because any strain on the wires is on the terminal block, not the charge controller.

[Byron Kinnaman]

I would imagine that a 30 amp charge controller would require 10 awg or maybe even 8 awg wire. Too small a wire won't stay put.

[Huck]

Originally Posted by sarahspins

Yes... longer 10g wires (from solar, battery, and fuse block) to terminal block, additional 6" length of 10g wires go between the terminal block and charge controller.

I can take pictures later if it's not making sense... but long story short, I had mine originally wired up to a different (very cheap) charge controller that accepted #8 ring terminals, so that's how I originally did my wiring.. the terminal block was my quick solution to not wanting to just cut those ring terminals off. I'm happier with the arrangement though, because any strain on the wires is on the terminal block, not the charge controller.

I understand, Just wanted to verify that it was 10 gauge from block to charge controller. If I could screw everything down, that would work. I'm working on the closet side of the shower, so I can't screw into the wall.

[sarahspins]

Some 3M VHB tape might hold strong enough

[Huck]

I crimped Anderson powerpole pins on the 2 solar panel wires and 2 battery wires. To get them into the holes in the charge controller, I slid them in sideways and then turned them 90 degrees. Screwed down and they seem to be holding real well.



Why powerpole pins? They were the only pins I found that crimped on 10 gauge and fit in the hole.

[Huck]

Originally Posted by sarahspins

Some 3M VHB tape might hold strong enough

That's kind of what I did. I used vhb tape to fasten velcro to the charge controller and to the wall. That part seems to be working OK. Won't know for sure until I head down the road.

[stevebaz]

I soldered my stranded wires to make them solid then squeezed them with vise grips to make them square. Once made square they fit right in the connector.

[Night Sailor]

Originally Posted by Huck

The 2 holes with wires are the solar panel. The next 2 holes are for power and they are all the way open. The next 2 aren't used.

You might have to cut away a few strands of the wire to make them fit.

This is the one weakness of these controllers. They use them for solar powered street lamps and use solid wire instead of stranded.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Night Sailor

They use them for solar powered street lamps and use solid wire instead of stranded.

That explains a lot, now my controller makes more sense.

[Night Sailor]

That's the reason for the extra terminals you don't use. It's to separate the loads from the battery so they can be programmed to shut off the lights rather than kill the battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Jared J]

In that case, tinning should really help.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[ruscal]

All of the above shortcomings and required workarounds really stress the need for a purpose built panel mounted controller. The market is new, but rapidly growing, and makes economical sense to jump in.
Some desirable traits would be:
A flat profile to be recessed behind the panel frame.
totally water proof.
MC 4 receptacle or wire pigtail for "panel in".
Robust terminals for "controller out" sized for big wire for long runs.
Strain relief for controller out conductors.
Clearly labeled selector for all battery types.
USB output?
Earth bonding lug to connect to panel frame.
Multi-lingual instructions with pictures.

Non of these items would add much cost to the manufacturer, and would provide marketing advantages for sales.

Renogy probably contracts out for their controllers, but could specify exactly what they want, and have them in a few months.

Russ