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Old 05-01-2014, 08:58 AM   #61
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Name: David
Trailer: Scamp
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I ripped out a majority of wiring with the exception of wiring behind the kitchenette are and cabinet yes that ran behind the cat fur and on up to the 12v maxxair fan I installed.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:59 AM   #62
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I also invested in a good amount of Posi-Lock and Posi-tap connectors. They are overly expensive but boy were they a dream to work with!
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:14 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
.....My buddy the electrician will be here Saturday morning so I'd like to have a solid plan maybe even pull some wire or something before then if I can nail down at least where I need to put it
One thing you might do to help speed things up for your buddy. Pull a wire along the wall behind the cabinet from front couch to under sink. Leave it at least twice length required to cover the distance.

This wire becomes a "pull wire" that you can use to pull new wires through that location by taping new wire to pull wire. Because the pull wire is twice the length there is always an end of it available to tape on the next new wire and pull it through.

Set up pull wire(s) through the routes you think wires may need to run around the wall. Sometimes you want to run pull wire in two or more stages, from one point of easy access to the next.

Then when you buddy decides what wire he wants to run where he won't have to waste time on trying to get the new wire run. Just tape on, pull through, and hook up.

When I did commercial work it was common practice to leave the pull wire or pull line in place, never know when one would need to run something else through the same tight spot or long utility route.
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:23 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
Did you keep the old box as a sub panel box, move AC line coming in to the other side so it comes in under front bunk, then run a line back to old box?
Or nix the old box and re run all 120 lines..... It makes me say 'ugh' just typing that...

Doesn't it make sense to have the shore cord on the drivers side???
Yup it does but Scamp had the water hook ups and power hook ups on the passenger side for years before switching them to the drivers side. My 92 still has them on the passenger side and with a standard length stock power cord its not presented much of an issue. If you are going to do a lot of fiberglass repair on the outside anyways and repaint the trailer then I would move it - otherwise I would just leave it on the passenger side.

I noticed on another post you are concerned with how to run the wires if you install a new converter. Not sure where you current shore power/breaker box is located but if its like mine its on the wall up high under the kitchen sink area on the passenger side. My stock converter is located inside the rear drivers side hatch. The wires to it are all easily assessable by removing the two rear benches. They are all run inside along the outside edge of the trailer. Having the converter located in the rear hatch is a bit of a pain as it does interfere with the full use of that hatch. If you where to mount it to the face of the hatch rather than as Scamp did on the floor of the hatch that would be better. Having it in that large hatch means one has to be careful not to block the fan on the converter when storing large items in it. Noise of the fan has never been an issue though, in fact I rarely hear the fan - but I do sleep with my head on the other side of the trailer and there are several layers of comfortable bedding (seat foam, memory foam and a thick quilted mattress protector which I suspect helps deaden the sound. If starting from scratch & none of the wiring for the converter was already in that location and if I had the trailer pulled apart for easy rewiring, I would probable look seriously at putting the converter up in one of the front hatches.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:03 AM   #65
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Hmm... Is there a switch for the 12v light over the rear bed/ dinette????
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:31 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
Hmm... Is there a switch for the 12v light over the rear bed/ dinette????
If its the stock Scamp lights there should be a switch right on the light. Post a photo perhaps its been change out.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:42 AM   #67
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Will do when I get home... It's a giant eyeball looking light
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Old 05-02-2014, 02:18 PM   #68
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Woohoo!Click image for larger version

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And here is the light... No switch???
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Old 05-02-2014, 02:23 PM   #69
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Am I looking at Ensolite on the ceiling there? I thought Scamps were all rat-furred.

Per the light: It looks like one that uses a remote switch. Have you looked around that area for one of those?
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Old 05-02-2014, 02:55 PM   #70
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Well that does look like a fairly old style of light & not one I am familiar with so can't say if it original or not. Hopefully someone with an older Scamp can confirm. Can you run your finger along the ensolite and feel where the wires run to? may be a switch someplace hidden

Your panel sure doesnt look old... new still in the box?

Francesca, Rat fur wasn't used in Scamps until later model years.
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:39 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
Woohoo
Is that what the InteliPower 4000 series looks like under the cover?
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Old 05-02-2014, 05:27 PM   #72
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Wiring help

Progressive dynamics 4045.... Goin in tomorrow.

It is ensolite .... I can't even picture in my head what rat fur is or what it looks like Lol

As for the light.... I've searched for a switch, tried to follow a wire, got on a ladder to look on top... Nuthin... What the heck?
What would remote switch look like?? A normal toggle?
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:13 AM   #73
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Any reason there are 2 black and 2 white wires wired in from the the battery terminals? Both 14 ga... Just replace with 1 wire each heavier ga?
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:30 AM   #74
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So we determined one black wire from battery goes to inside and feed the scamp while the other loops around to the 7 pin connector... Presumably to charge the battery via the tow vehicle (same with the extra white wire)

So where do we tap in to those wires to run a line to the converter? On the wires that feed the interior? On the wires that feed to the shore cord? Before or after the splices?
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:34 AM   #75
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This thread might help:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...045-42372.html
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:48 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
So we determined one black wire from battery goes to inside and feed the scamp while the other loops around to the 7 pin connector... Presumably to charge the battery via the tow vehicle (same with the extra white wire)

So where do we tap in to those wires to run a line to the converter? On the wires that feed the interior? On the wires that feed to the shore cord? Before or after the splices?
Take a look at Post #15 which is how Scamp has wired their trailers for years. They have the main black power wire from the seven pin tug plug running directly to the converter with an inline fuse inside the trailer just after the wire enters the trailer (normally all the connections from the tug plug are up against the front wall of the trailer inside the front passenger side hatch) and only one black line coming off the battery that also has an inline fuse on it which is outside right at the battery & that black power wire from the battery taps into that main black power line that goes to the converter.
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:05 PM   #77
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Ohio
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Everything works but somethin is wrong...... Lol. Ugh.

It appears the battery is running the 12v and the shore cord is running all 120 equip....

We don't know how/when the converter kicks on?!?!?

What pics do you want to see? What do you need to know? .... I'm not sure what you even need to help us....
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:17 PM   #78
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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With this converter.... You should be able to run all 12v with just the shore cord and no battery hooked up? Correct? Isn't that the point?????
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:48 PM   #79
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Click image for larger version

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I can explain all of this in words if needed...

But bottom line right now is when plugged in and no battery hooked up, all 120 works. No 12v
When plugged in and battery hooked up 120 and 12v working throughout.
When not plugged in and battery hooked up all 12v works. No 120.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:52 PM   #80
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Name: Kevin & Lisa
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Maybe a full write up is needed ...
- black wire from 7 pin into DC main pos lug with battery black line tapped in.
- white line from 7 pin into DC main neg lug
- white line from DC main neg lug to DC neg bus bar outside of unitClick image for larger version

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- other white lines attached to neg bus bar are 1) direct neg to 12v pump on water tank and 2) white wire that was prťxisting and runs throughout scamp.
-Through that green 30 amp fuse I have 12v power to all 12v items with or without shore power

- shore power comes in to 30amp breaker and respective neg and gnd bus bars.
- 20amp works air. Duplex 15 runs hot water tank and an outlet and then refrig and another outlet. Click image for larger version

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- 12 DC wires from fuse panel come out the back and connect to an isolating bus bar.
- 30amp fused circuit#2 has a black wire attached that is the existing wire that runs all over the inside of the scamp.Click image for larger version

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When battery is hooked up all 12v circuits work but when hooked to 120v shore power then converter never kicks on and I am still just running off battery.

?????????
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