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Old 08-15-2015, 10:59 AM   #1
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Anode rod

I know I let it go too long now I can't get the anode rod out! I live at the beach and everything rusts. The outside of the anode rod is rusted, after only 1 1/2 years of sitting still.
HELP!
I tried putting WD40 on for 2 nights and then a WD lubricant to loosen, and then my handiman put his torch to it for about 15 seconds. Still won't come loose!
HELP!
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:52 PM   #2
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If you know a mechanic or an over equipped do it yourselfer with a compressor and an impact gun like one used to change tires, that should do the trick. You will need a 1- 1/16 impact socket. If that doesn't do the job, nothing will.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:22 PM   #3
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Look into penetrating oil. I don't know what brands are available to you but here a common name is PB Blaster. You spray it on and make a grand mess. Leave it a while. Try your wrench again.
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Old 08-15-2015, 03:52 PM   #4
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Look into penetrating oil. I don't know what brands are available to you but here a common name is PB Blaster. You spray it on and make a grand mess. Leave it a while. Try your wrench again.

It helps to tap it after it has soaked, and then spray on more before applying the wrench. There are replacement anodes that have a brass sleeve which prevents the treads from rusting together.


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Old 08-15-2015, 05:09 PM   #5
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The 2 guys up above have the answer. Use PB Blaster and let it soak then attach the socket with a breaker bar and Tap the end of the breaker bar to jar it loose.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pb+b...eMicR3dLfGc%3D
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Old 08-15-2015, 05:33 PM   #6
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And there is a tool for everything almost. This one goes in an air chisel gun, takes a socket on the other end, and has a hex to put a wrench on it, so you can hammer and turn at the same time.
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Old 08-15-2015, 06:02 PM   #7
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I don't think I would actually use the above mentioned tool in this case though. Might do more harm than good. How much stress can the tank wall take, hammering or twisting? Are these tanks lined with something that could be damaged, like home hot water heaters that have some kind of "glass" lining?
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:06 PM   #8
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PB blaster is on the list for tomorrows shopping!
I have been tapping the end as we tried to get it to budge. Well not exactly tapping but more like hitting it with the hammer!
That was one concern I had too, how much can that area take before the whole fitting comes off with the anode?
A friend had their anode taken off with the impact gun but theirs wasn't frozen or rusted like mine. my biggest concern is if I break something i'll have to replace the whole unit! Has this happened to anyone?
I'll find someone with the impact gun!
Thanks for all your comments!
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:36 PM   #9
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I plagiarized this from a sailing listerver from March '14:

Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various
penetrating oils that is very interesting. You might appreciate this.
The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on
rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by a professional machinist.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the
control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
“scientifically rusted” environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Break out torque*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any
commercial product in this one particular test and you can also use ATF-
lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as
good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.

edit: I wonder how to make a half-dozen equivalent rusted in bolts.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:31 AM   #10
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going to try it till I get it done!

So let me get this right....start with the top of the list and work down. But the trani and acetone mixture should be the most effective to loosen that rusted anode.

Thanks!
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Old 08-16-2015, 08:44 AM   #11
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The least torque is best. I regard the guy that sent that e-mail credible but I don't know him. Being a lazy old guy I'd just buy stuff at the store for a first shot.
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paula View Post
I know I let it go too long now I can't get the anode rod out! I live at the beach and everything rusts. The outside of the anode rod is rusted, after only 1 1/2 years of sitting still.
HELP!
I tried putting WD40 on for 2 nights and then a WD lubricant to loosen, and then my handiman put his torch to it for about 15 seconds. Still won't come loose!
HELP!
Hi: Paula... I don't know how safe it is but I wrap the anode rod threads with plumbers Teflon tape. Helps for the next time. I believe the tank is made of Aluminium and the anode rod end is cast iron. These two metals being dissimilar can be a brute to get apart without rusting. The Teflon really helps.
Once you get it loose stay back as the water and crud will start to gush... unless you release the pressure by opening the safety on the tank or the hot water tap!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:03 AM   #13
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I believe the tank made out of aluminum does not use an anode rod and the other is made of steel one does. I always use the Teflon tape and it does help with getting the rod out.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:28 PM   #14
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Anode rod

If it has an anode, it is a porcelain lined steel tank most likely made by Suburban, but I'm not well versed in what Casita builds into their trailers. Atwood uses an aluminum tank with no anode. Scamp uses an Atwood. It has a nylon drain plug that has a penchant for self destructing if in really tight when it is removed. It then takes a lot of time and effort to remove the remaining piece. The Suburban anode does have steel threads that can rust to the threads of the tank. In my humble opinion, the best remedy is to buy replacement anodes made by NW Leisure Products. They utilize a brass adapter with an anode that has an anode with smaller diameter thread that goes into the brass adapter. Since brass does not rust, you will never have a difficult time removing the anode to drain or clean the tank.


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Old 08-16-2015, 04:44 PM   #15
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An anode is referred to as "sacrificial" because it sacrifices the metal in the rod - typically magnesium- to the corrosive effects of water and oxygen, rather than sacrificing the steel of the tank, thus creating a leaking tank. An aluminum anode is substituted for magnesium when water has a high sulfur content to mitigate the "rotten egg" odor given off when the sulfur reacts with magnesium. The aluminum rod is not as effective in terms of sacrificing itself as a magnesium rod and therefore offers less protection for the tank. If high sulfur content is not an issue, the magnesium rod will offer the most protection. I use teflon tape to seal the threads and remove the rod at the end of the camping season when I winterize. If the rod is still better than 50%, I reinstall in the spring. During the winter, I stuff some copper wool in the anode hole to keep critters out.
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:08 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Paula View Post
going to try it till I get it done!

So let me get this right....start with the top of the list and work down. But the trani and acetone mixture should be the most effective to loosen that rusted anode.

Thanks!
Paula, maybe I misunderstand your plan -- but I think you would want to start at the bottom of the list and work UP. The concoctions at the bottom work best (like the "trani and acetone).

If I'm mis-reading this, someone please correct me (and accept my apologies)

best,
LP
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:31 PM   #17
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Carl
That's incredible that they don't just have this brass adapter built into the new rod or even the fitting of the water heater! But then I'm sure it would eliminate the need for broken or damaged heaters!!!
Thanks for your info on this little adapter. Does your Escape have it built in or have you had to discover it?
I'll be contacting Suburban tomorrow to see what is next for my situation!!!
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:34 PM   #18
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Yes you are correct! Sorry for any confusion
Paula
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:34 PM   #19
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Paula, maybe I misunderstand your plan -- but I think you would want to start at the bottom of the list and work UP. The concoctions at the bottom work best (like the "trani and acetone). ...
That is right. I've used PB Blaster to my satisfaction and due to extreme and calculated laziness I'd only escalate if necessary.
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:38 PM   #20
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Brian
That's a great idea to winterize but here in CA I use my rig year round and so I never empty the hot water heater tank unless i'm changing out the rod.
From now on I'll be taking that rod out just to break the rusty seal as a maintenance thing.
Thanks!
PS didn't know there was a magnesium or aluminum rod! again thanks for your info!
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