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02-18-2016, 07:18 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21RB, 2004
Quebec
Posts: 693
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Over time I noticed that when the container used is about to be empty, there is a slight smell of gas that collects when using the interior stove or that is circulating around the fireplace water heater on or near the fireplace heating ...
At that time I watch more closely if the transfer is done automatically.
__________________
Gilles 
Bigfoot 25B21RB.
Towed with Dodge RAM 1500 Echo-Diesel, 3.0 L., 8 speeds.
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02-18-2016, 07:34 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,791
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It is a trade off, like pretty much everything we do. My experience is that even during our spring or fall trips (using the furnace) each tank will last at least 4-5 days. The indicator on the regulator does show that it switched, so looking at it once a day is enough.
No, I do not have a nice cover hiding those hideous tanks, but I ignore them except that once per day check.
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02-18-2016, 07:52 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Ok thanks for that comparison. Yeah I was starting to think the auto switching was kind of an unnecessary luxury, but then I though "why not?". But both sides definitely make good sense to me.
I rarely run my heat at night. Actually I've never run my heat at night. Even down to the teens (F), I just bundle up, then kick on the heat when I get up in the morning.
Something like this would be good? If I decide to go auto.
And yes, Gilles, you're right. Lp is one of those things I shouldn't leave to chance. Upgrading the regulator right away is a good call.
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02-18-2016, 08:39 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,314
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If your fridge runs on propane, it is good that the propane switches over, especially if you are in the desert and away for the day, touring local brew pubs.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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02-19-2016, 01:42 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Daniel A.
Trailer: Bigfoot 17.0 1991 dlx
British Columbia
Posts: 741
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You have the same trailer I have, I only open one tank so will always have propane. I did replace my regulator as the old one failed/ started leaking.
Next move I may take another look at fiberglass tanks for replacement of those steel tanks.
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02-19-2016, 03:05 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006 "Missing Link"
California
Posts: 3,738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP
There are two schools of thought on the auto-switch regulators.
Those who like the convenience and protection from running out in the middle of the night. They need to check fairly often.
And those who don't like them because you don't know when it switches over and could let both tanks run out. They are willing to chance a middle of the night inconvenience (trauma?) in exchange for avoiding running both tanks out.
So far I've followed the second school. Walt
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I'm with you Walt, not a fan of auto valves and I've never run out of LP in the RV in over 30 years. Sure can't say the same for the home BBQ though and that caused me a lot bigger problem than running out in the trailer would have but pulling one off the trailer saved the day.....and the steaks  .
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02-19-2016, 08:34 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Ok, thanks. I do spend time in the desert but I've never run out of propane. But my last tank, being a permanently installed horizontal tank, had a fairly accurate gauge so I always knew when it was time to head to town for a refill.
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02-20-2016, 11:31 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Alright a couple more questions...
I was looking at a Marshall regulator. But there are different models, with no easy-to-find description of how they differ. Model 250, 253, 254...I don't know the difference..?
They seem to have fewer bad reviews than Camco.
Then there are the pigtails. I figure why not replace those? My tanks have the internal thread, so the pigtails need to have external thread. A lot of what I'm seeing that people typically buy with these auto switchover regulators are pigtails with internal threads.
So how are most RV propane tanks set up? Internal or external threads? If my tanks are just really old and will need to be replaced soon, I don't want to buy pigtails that work for them, then need to buy new ones again soon.
Anyway...let me know.
Thanks.
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02-20-2016, 12:42 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Gilles
Trailer: Bigfoot 25B21RB, 2004
Quebec
Posts: 693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachO
Alright a couple more questions...
I was looking at a Marshall regulator. But there are different models, with no easy-to-find description of how they differ. Model 250, 253, 254...I don't know the difference..?
They seem to have fewer bad reviews than Camco.
Then there are the pigtails. I figure why not replace those? My tanks have the internal thread, so the pigtails need to have external thread. A lot of what I'm seeing that people typically buy with these auto switchover regulators are pigtails with internal threads.
So how are most RV propane tanks set up? Internal or external threads? If my tanks are just really old and will need to be replaced soon, I don't want to buy pigtails that work for them, then need to buy new ones again soon.
Anyway...let me know.
Thanks.
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After a search on the net, I remark on the different models of controllers that you specify, it is the difference in the gas flow at the regulator output.
I believe that a technician for propane could tell you the choice to make to your propane equipment used ...
Probably in RV parts stores, you might be well run.
__________________
Gilles 
Bigfoot 25B21RB.
Towed with Dodge RAM 1500 Echo-Diesel, 3.0 L., 8 speeds.
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02-20-2016, 06:24 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,314
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I have the Marshall.
When a tank runs out, the indicator goes red. You can see from pic that one tank is empty and one is full. The lever indicates which tank is empty, but the auto switch over is feeding from the full tank. This is especially handy in the middle of the night when running the furnace or when it's 45 minutes on a gravel road to get propane.
I can then close the tank that the lever is pointing to, move the lever to the full tank, remove the empty and take it to be filled while the full tank continues to run the fridge and furnace.
If you are going to replace these parts and the tank, I would replace with auto change over.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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02-20-2016, 06:42 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Alright. I just went with the one model they sell at an RV store, figuring it ought to be right for an RV...
Looking around, it looks like new tanks aren't really very expensive either, so that's nice to see. Especially compared to the horizontal tank I used to have.
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02-21-2016, 07:45 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '04 Scamp 19D, TV:Tacoma 3.5L 4door, SB
Colorado
Posts: 1,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZachO
Then there are the pigtails. I figure why not replace those? My tanks have the internal thread, so the pigtails need to have external thread. A lot of what I'm seeing that people typically buy with these auto switchover regulators are pigtails with internal threads.
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I think I read somewhere that the (very) old tanks had only the internal, Left Hand thread. The new ones have both the internal LH and the external RH (square profile) threads. The outside thread is much more convenient. You need an open end wrench for the pigtail with the internal thread.
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02-21-2016, 08:00 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Alright, thanks.
I'll be getting new tanks and pigtails next.
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