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Old 03-07-2015, 05:39 AM   #1
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Camco Hot Water Hybrid Heat - Have you done this?

Hi Everyone,
Just sitting by the computer this morning, eager for spring and looking online at RV accessories. Came across this Camco Hot Water Hybrid Heat Kit...supposed to convert any 6 gallon propane hot water heater to electric. Link to it at WalMart below. Has anyone ever used this product? If so, how difficult was the install and how does the product work for you? Just curious!

Wendy

camco hybrid - Walmart.com
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:52 AM   #2
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It's easy to install and works great.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:58 AM   #3
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In many (but not all) cases you have to remove the sacrificial anode and install the electric heating element in it's place. A very bad idea.... Here's a link to that issue in all water heaters.
Hot water heater anodes and rust protection



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Old 03-07-2015, 09:53 AM   #4
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If you have the Atwood water heater in your Scamp, then there should not be an anode rod (unless someone added an aftermarket one thinking they needed one). They use the tank liner material as the anode. I've seen a few Scamps that had the electric hot water element added and those just replaced the nylon plug for the heating element. Those folks were happy with the conversion.
Atwood also mentions in their literature that adding an aftermarket electric element voids their warranty, so you may want to wait til the warranty expires if you have a new Scamp.
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...2011.19.07.pdf
"The use of any aftermarket heating element devices may also result in
damage to components or water heater. Atwood’s written warranty
states - “failure or damage resulting from any alteration to our water
heater is the owner’s responsibility”. Any alteration, like the addition of
an aftermarket heating element device, will void the warranty"
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Old 03-07-2015, 10:43 AM   #5
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sounds interesting. In my Bigfoot, I have a switch to turn on propane. So I could leave this off when hooked up to A/C and go outside and switch this on? Easily hooks up and switch to turn off and on?
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Old 03-07-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
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A water heater that is converted to electric should include a high limit as well as a thermostat to prevent overheating . The high limit should have a manual reset. You want to prevent the water heater from becoming a steam boiler. The water heater also requires an equipment ground to prevent a shock hazard.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:09 AM   #7
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Hi again,

Yes I did read about the warranty being voided if this is added. I have a 2012 so I will click on your link radar to see how long the Atwood warranty is.

The camco unit I posted a link to does have a t stat. I do have the Atwood model so no anode rod. Radar, if they put the heating element where the nylon drain plug goes, how did they drain the tank? Probably another of my dumb questions, but I don't understand. Perhaps the heating element is threaded like the plug so you just twist it out to drain?

Anyway, I like the idea of not having to use my propane to heat the water and also the price for the unit seems reasonable.


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Old 03-07-2015, 11:11 AM   #8
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Just checked the Atwood link and warranty won't help me anyway as I'm not the original owner and more than two years have passed.


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Old 03-07-2015, 12:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Z View Post
sounds interesting. In my Bigfoot, I have a switch to turn on propane. So I could leave this off when hooked up to A/C and go outside and switch this on? Easily hooks up and switch to turn off and on?
You don't need to go outside, I placed A/C On/Off switch inside the trailer. The kit includes thermostat and high limit cut off switch.
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Old 03-07-2015, 12:14 PM   #10
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SAFETY

Quote:
Originally Posted by sokhapkin View Post
You don't need to go outside, I placed A/C On/Off switch inside the trailer. The kit includes thermostat and high limit cut off switch.
The switch should be outside at the heater location . If you look at any of the factory installs , the work switch for disconnecting the water heater is outside. You already have a disconnect inside , the circuit breaker. The electrical code requires a disconnect within sight of the water heater. It is a safety issue!! If you install a receptacle at the heater and the heater is plug and cord connected then the receptacle can serve as the disconnecing means . Do not use the receptacle to disconnect the heater under load due to arcing . Turn off the breaker and then unplug the heater to perform maintenance
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Old 03-07-2015, 01:52 PM   #11
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I love using the electric element ---no worry-what so ever
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Old 03-07-2015, 04:18 PM   #12
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We've owned 3 RVs and installed hot rod water heaters in each of the Propane only water heaters. I like the silence of the electric option.

Over 14 years we have not had a failure.

All the hot rods we have purchased came with an adjustable thermostat. We also added a cutoff switch. You have to be sure to not turn on the 'hot rod' with an empty hot water tank. With no water it's possible to damage the hot rod.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:37 PM   #13
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Atwood's disclaimer about installing the HottRod is a JOKE! I called their hand on it and talked with the factory. I said, "You guys offer basically the SAME thing with the "Hybrids" that have both gas and electric. They confessed that it wasnt an issue at all...BUT...there are some cases- as usual- that people would install one and as expected screw something up then blame it on Atwood....thus the disclaimer. FWIW, mine wasnt under warranty.

I think several have posted on here that use the HottRod (and the same would be with the Camco) without issue. I'm another. I removed my propane and have gone 100% electric and love it!

Here's how I hooked mine up and it works PERFECT! I installed a red light at my counter. The reason being- as someone's already mentioned- if you turn the unit on with no water in the tank, HottRod proclaims it will burn out within about 30 seconds! So if the red light is on, there better be water in the tank! I use a breaker as my switch and I cut a small oval hole in my breaker panel just so I can get my finger in there and flip it on/off (no accidental turn-ons). So my HottRod is wired directly into my Progressive electrical panel with its OWN breaker.

CAMPYTIME: Be VERY cautious about installing the thermostat to your tank! I used heavy-duty nylon ties that go across the ends (dont block your emergency reset!). Then I used JB Weld to seal around the edge of it as HottRod suggested. I've been several hundred miles now and checked the other day and the thermostat is still very secure and my electric water heater works everytime with ZERO problems. But one final caution- should the thermostat come loose from the waterheater, it could cause it to burst...and this HAS happened from what I've read.

I have pics available of my install...
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Atwood's disclaimer about installing the HottRod is a JOKE! I called their hand on it and talked with the factory. I said, "You guys offer basically the SAME thing with the "Hybrids" that have both gas and electric. They confessed that it wasnt an issue at all...BUT...there are some cases- as usual- that people would install one and as expected screw something up then blame it on Atwood....thus the disclaimer. FWIW, mine wasnt under warranty.

I think several have posted on here that use the HottRod (and the same would be with the Camco) without issue. I'm another. I removed my propane and have gone 100% electric and love it!

Here's how I hooked mine up and it works PERFECT! I installed a red light at my counter. The reason being- as someone's already mentioned- if you turn the unit on with no water in the tank, HottRod proclaims it will burn out within about 30 seconds! So if the red light is on, there better be water in the tank! I use a breaker as my switch and I cut a small oval hole in my breaker panel just so I can get my finger in there and flip it on/off (no accidental turn-ons). So my HottRod is wired directly into my Progressive electrical panel with its OWN breaker.

CAMPYTIME: Be VERY cautious about installing the thermostat to your tank! I used heavy-duty nylon ties that go across the ends (dont block your emergency reset!). Then I used JB Weld to seal around the edge of it as HottRod suggested. I've been several hundred miles now and checked the other day and the thermostat is still very secure and my electric water heater works everytime with ZERO problems. But one final caution- should the thermostat come loose from the waterheater, it could cause it to burst...and this HAS happened from what I've read.

I have pics available of my install...

Would you believe my Hybrid arrived today ?! Were you going to post the pics ? It'd really be a help !!!
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:25 PM   #15
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I've been aiming to post these for awhile so Mr Pineapple you finally got me busy. I hope these helps you and CampyTime. I go overboard on my mods with tests and experiments and the addition of bells and whistles. BUT, you can see how I did my installation both on the inside AND outside.

ONE CORRECTION: I mentioned earlier about using JBWeld to secure it. I did not. The thermostat comes with double-sided tape and they recommend the use of JBWeld. I opted for the nylon straps seen in my pics. As previously stated, they're working VERY well. I DID use JB Weld on the lil sensor I installed on the tank from my Accurite thermometer. You can see all of this in the pics as well.

I remove my anode to drain the water tank. I dont leave it full and empty it before leaving the campground. I used "nylon bushings" and they protect the threads on the water tank! But removing it since the nylon is smaller than the brass nut on the HR's anode was a challenge. I show the tool I made to remove it and show the tool on the tank as it's used!

I also show details of my panel.

Here's a link to my Flickr photo site. I have other pics of my Scamp mods and others stuff at ths link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...7648895548394/
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:13 PM   #16
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Thanks Darral !!
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I've been aiming to post these for awhile so Mr Pineapple you finally got me busy. I hope these helps you and CampyTime. I go overboard on my mods with tests and experiments and the addition of bells and whistles. BUT, you can see how I did my installation both on the inside AND outside.

ONE CORRECTION: I mentioned earlier about using JBWeld to secure it. I did not. The thermostat comes with double-sided tape and they recommend the use of JBWeld. I opted for the nylon straps seen in my pics. As previously stated, they're working VERY well. I DID use JB Weld on the lil sensor I installed on the tank from my Accurite thermometer. You can see all of this in the pics as well.

I remove my anode to drain the water tank. I dont leave it full and empty it before leaving the campground. I used "nylon bushings" and they protect the threads on the water tank! But removing it since the nylon is smaller than the brass nut on the HR's anode was a challenge. I show the tool I made to remove it and show the tool on the tank as it's used!

I also show details of my panel.

Here's a link to my Flickr photo site. I have other pics of my Scamp mods and others stuff at ths link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...7648895548394/

Hi again Darral, How were you able to run the anode thru the nylon bushing so that it didn't leak ? I could drill the hole, but wouldn't know how to glue/seal it.
Guess if I do it the same way, I'd have to make one of those tools also. Yours looks very professional ! (and sell-able)
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:43 PM   #18
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"DUH" ON ME DARRAL!!
I was only looking thru the album, and just found out that if I click on the individual photos, that you've generously provided all the info I need, below them.
Will be ordering the nylon bushings and see if my crowsfoot will work with a wobble extension on my ratchet. Thank you sooo much again !!!
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Old 03-23-2015, 02:49 PM   #19
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And my apologies as I didnt realize you had posted another question! But I got the notification on your last post and am glad you found the information you need. Also thanks for the compliments. For what it's worth (and I havent looked back in my 'album'), but you can pick up those SAME nylon bushings at a Tractor Supply store! I didnt know this until later on.

Now...PLEASE let me know how your commercial crow's foot works! If it's doable, I'd be MORE than happy to add your pic to my album and give you credit. Plus, it will offer a viable off-the-shelf alternative! I didnt have any of those tools and had the machine so I just custom-made the unit...with the advantage of making it from aluminum to keep it lighter while I was at it.

Take care and again, please let me know how it turns out. If you want, PM me and I will give you my personal email address. That way, if you have any more questions, you can post them here AND to me personally so I will be sure to get them.

Here's a link to the Tractor Supply company I spoke of:

For Life Out Here | Tractor Supply Co.
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Old 03-23-2015, 03:18 PM   #20
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Whoo Boy !! I hope we meet at a rally, so I can shake your hand !!
The shipping online was twice the price of the bushings.
We have a TSC in town, less than 10 mi. away and gotta go in on Thurs. anyways.
Will let you know if the crows foot doesn't work, cause then I'll need to make a tool.
Bought a couple toggle lights, 1 for ele. 1 for propane, then just label them. Should work shouldn't it ?
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