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Old 11-28-2020, 07:11 AM   #41
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
Charles, I never really thought to label things in or on the trailer, think I will attempt the same. I have a label machine but not sure it will do labels that won't wash off or fade in the sunlight.

There are some really stable and stickly labels for the p-touch tz system.
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Old 11-28-2020, 11:36 PM   #42
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Name: Charles
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
Posts: 72
This is the whole story of the Brother Tz labels and a couple of other compatible versions Brother makes. Pages 18 and 19 list every available tape, by background, text color and adhesive type, environmental conditions, etc.

https://www.brother.is/-/media/produ...update_web.pdf

A little simpler, here is the list of tapes and part numbers, as above, much easier to figure out.

https://www.ptouchdirect.com/ptouch/...ape-guide.html

I have one older USB label maker and a newer one, they both take up to one inch wide I think. The third one is a portable with a keyboard, so its text only. The USB ones, using the computer software, you can include images and clipart. I have two switches in the shop, one is the master switch for the three ceiling fans, and one is the power for the shop heater. I included a clip art of a ceiling fan, looks just like the ones I have, and for the heater I finally used a fire breathing dragon image.

Every switch and receptacle in my shop and house has a label to indicate what circuit breaker controls it. No guessing later on.

Here is an example of the Progressive Power managment remote indicator and the label I made for the error codes. Black on clear on the wall paper, can be read but not annoying to look at.

Also one for the step control switch, I was always confused by the steps and once I figured it out, I labeled it.

Charles
Attached Thumbnails
EMS HW30 remote installation.jpg   Step control switch.jpg  

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Old 11-29-2020, 12:02 AM   #43
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
This is the whole story of the Brother Tz labels and a couple of other compatible versions Brother makes. Pages 18 and 19 list every available tape, by background, text color and adhesive type, environmental conditions, etc.

https://www.brother.is/-/media/produ...update_web.pdf

A little simpler, here is the list of tapes and part numbers, as above, much easier to figure out.

https://www.ptouchdirect.com/ptouch/...ape-guide.html

I have one older USB label maker and a newer one, they both take up to one inch wide I think. The third one is a portable with a keyboard, so its text only. The USB ones, using the computer software, you can include images and clipart. I have two switches in the shop, one is the master switch for the three ceiling fans, and one is the power for the shop heater. I included a clip art of a ceiling fan, looks just like the ones I have, and for the heater I finally used a fire breathing dragon image.

Every switch and receptacle in my shop and house has a label to indicate what circuit breaker controls it. No guessing later on.

Here is an example of the Progressive Power managment remote indicator and the label I made for the error codes. Black on clear on the wall paper, can be read but not annoying to look at.

Also one for the step control switch, I was always confused by the steps and once I figured it out, I labeled it.

Charles

Don't forget that there are some companies who make their own versions that work with these labelers. Some of them have some unique properties.
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Old 11-29-2020, 09:54 AM   #44
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Name: Henry
Trailer: BigFoot
Tennessee
Posts: 1,198
You have inspire me. I have a Brother PT-D200. I really do need to start making labels for things in the trailer and around the house. Very good project for the next couple of cold months.
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Old 11-29-2020, 04:51 PM   #45
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Name: Ray
Trailer: scamp
Indiana
Posts: 336
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
You have inspire me. I have a Brother PT-D200. I really do need to start making labels for things in the trailer and around the house. Very good project for the next couple of cold months.

Just remember that the labels which specify they have an adhesive which will not come off, won't.
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Old 12-02-2020, 09:25 PM   #46
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 319
Progress! I got the fill fitting off. Bigfoot apparently puts the tanks in place early on, so they weren't much progress even when I finally got ahold of them. They also usually use a fitting with a rounded center instead of hex. Had quite a time getting the right size, since I couldn't get in there to measure.

First attempt was a plumber's wrench, cut down around the outside so it'd fit in the space. 1-3/4". It fit, but it was just a bit too big to really get a good grip on it. Especially since it really had only 2 edges to grab. I might have managed it if I'd really forced it, but I didn't want to mangle it if I didn't have to and rounded plastic bolts are pretty unforgiving. Especially with really narrow wrenches.

Second attempt, well, I figured it was about 1/8" off so I'd try a 1-5/8" socket. Had to order a ridiculously overbuilt one, since little sheet-metal sockets don't seem to come in that size. No dice - that wasn't big enough to fit.

Attempt number 3 was a bit bigger, 1-11/16". Turns out that was also a bit small, but since it's large and plastic and needed very little torque, that ended up being close enough.

Once I got the thing out, I was able to get a better idea of the problem. I suspect it's supposed to be 1-3/4" nominally, but in reality it's more like 1-45/64". Probably close enough for a socket, but not for a wrench.

Next up, hopefully Friday, I'll pull the actual tank and inspect it. Grant said it should be possible to get it out despite the spin-welded fittings sticking out.

Still going back and forth with BF's parts department to get the support bar (they call it a zed-bar) ordered. I figure I should probably replace it rather than try to unmangle the one I have.
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Old 12-02-2020, 09:58 PM   #47
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 319
Right nominal size, but just enough excess clearance and rounded corners to make it slip if the angle is short of perfect.
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Old 12-05-2020, 07:44 PM   #48
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 319
Tank is out! Less damage from the initial event than I expected, which is good. Might not have had to remove it entirely after all, though I still needed to get in there to replace the bent support bar.

Unfortunately, getting the tank out did involve mangling the fill inlet. I'm going to have to have a local shop spin-weld a new fitting on.
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Old 12-30-2020, 07:29 PM   #49
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Name: Elliott
Trailer: Bigfoot
Everywhere
Posts: 319
After a lot of calling around, I found a local shop that can spin-weld a new fitting on. Took it in, and.. turns out, he didn't know what spin-welding was after all. But he thought the overnight guy might. He did have a decent amount of experience welding and reshaping plastic in general though, and managed to unmangle the fitting enough that it'll probably be workable. Threads aren't perfect, but they should seal OK. Especially with teflon tape.

I also patched up the one spot that was gouged a bit more deeply. The rest are all really superficial, no need to patch. Probably didn't even need to patch the one I did, but I figured I might as well shore it up while I've got the tank out.

Now I just need Bigfoot to get back with me about the replacement "Z-bar". It's been a few weeks of slow back-and-forth, probably because of covid+holidays. Might try to find a local metal shop that'll fab one up since it's just rectangular sheet metal with a few 90-degree bends.
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2020-12-30 15.17.25.jpg  
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Old 01-11-2021, 10:13 AM   #50
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Name: JJ
Trailer: 2008 Bigfoot 25RQ
Idaho
Posts: 73
Interesting thread. THANK YOU! My black tank partially fell out during a rinse and clean while in my driveway. I had filled the tank with a swivel stick rinser for flushing it clean, but some how it caused the tank to fall away from and out from the z bracket.
I took to an RV dealer who re-seated the tank and added additional supports. Then, I took to a welder who added iron straps that were bolted to the frame diagonally across the underbelly. This was an added protection to keep the tank from dropping down, or worse yet, falling to the ground while traveling. I have learned since not to travel with any of the thanks filled, even partially, unless going a short distance. If I remember correctly, the Z bar ledge where the tank sits on is maybe around 3""? In any case, if the tank flexes at all, due to the added weight, it would bow in the center causing the tank edges to recede away from the z-bar ledge. Too far and the tank drops. I have read a few horror stories about rv owners traveling with full, or semi-full tanks, and the tank had dropped to the road surface. By adding the iron straps, I was, hopefully, able to avoid this happening to me, since it already happened once while sitting in my driveway. My unit was a 200825RQ. So, the repairman made some repairs to assist in ensuring that the tanks stayed in place, and then the welder installed some added protection. BTW, the rv repair center stated that this is happens occasionally to all makes and models of units. If you look at the design, at least on a 2008, there is minimal support of the tanks. And if they bow with the added fluid weight, well, that can make it even more potentially a problem, not to say dangerous. At least, that was the case with me. There are some YouTube videos of owners that have made the added precautions, if that helps? Thanks again for all of your detail.
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