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Old 05-05-2015, 08:59 AM   #1
kip
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Name: Kip, 1978 boler 1300
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fresh water inlet for outlet as well?

Hi all

Just collecting pieces in preparation for painting my boler resto. I'm trying to get everything bought and in the garage before I do the tear down for paining. I don't want it sitting waiting for parts unusable.

Anyhow I'm replacing the fresh water inlet with just a standard new round one. I can't seem to find a matching outlet for the sink drain water. Is there any reason I can't just buy two inlets so they match? I know some inlets have the screen on them but in theory I could just pull that off. Any reason with won't work?

Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2015, 09:55 AM   #2
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The water inlets on most trailers are female threads with a check valve and some cases a screen. The sink drains are male and have no check valve in them. If you took out the screen and drilled out the check valve someone could connect city water to your sink drain and you would have a mess. Murphys law.
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Old 05-06-2015, 12:57 PM   #3
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There isn’t much pressure behind a draining sink that I would expect it to open anything more robust than a flap-type check valve. Even so, so long as the outlet is male hose thread, someone would have to work pretty hard to connect a hose to pump water up into the boat. Perhaps a sticker saying “outlet” would be a hint.

Or you could put a turn ball valve in the line just under the sink. Not a help if you forget to turn it off, or if the local practical joker sticks a hose to the outlet.

Boat stores typically have relatively inexpensive check valves in a variety of diameters. I’d be inclined to buy one of their wash down outlets (they don’t usually have a check valve) and you could plumb a flapper check valve into the drain hose upstream of the outlet. You’d probably have to get creative with adapters (NPT to barb, ID transitions, etc.

Outlet fittings are more pricey. I'd shop around.


I usually opt for marine hardware because it tends to be better quality and the appearance on outside parts generally holds up. Why paint the trailer and then have some cheap chrome part start pitting and peeling a year later.


I might mark the outside "top" of the check valve so that I can twist it so that the "hinge/top" of the flap is at the top in the particular area where it is installed in the hose. I'm assuming the flap is easier for the water to open it that way.

Never having done it myself this is mostly idle speculation. I like the planning and buying parts for a project almost as much as doing it.

Outlet:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/whitec...itting--398687

Flapper style check valve:
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/bosworth--nylon-in-line-check-valves--P011_332_003_515
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kip View Post
I'm replacing the fresh water inlet with just a standard new round one. I can't seem to find a matching outlet for the sink drain water.
I assume you mean "City Water" inlet not "Water Tank" inlet.
I have a Camco Flexible Tent Camper Drain which includes the outlet, trap, and hose between them. I found that they only sell the complete kit and not the individual pieces.

I decided to use different parts, so my complete kit is available.
Send me a Private Message with an address where I can send it and it is yours.
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Old 05-07-2015, 07:42 AM   #5
kip
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Name: Kip, 1978 boler 1300
Trailer: boler
British Columbia
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Thanks for the advice all. I wasn't thinking about the male to female diff on the connections. I ended up finding an almost matching drain connection I'm happy with. It came with a whole new sink drain assembly for 10 bucks so I think I'll go that route. (The current sink drains via hose clamps and garden hose pieced in)
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