Hoping for best, preparing for worst

[Apltrez]

Although living in the Southwest, I still winterize my trailers. Recently I downsized from a Bigfoot 21 to a used Casita 17 and banked the difference. In preparing to winterize, I encountered a nasty looking, well rusted anode rod. I've spent time at this site and you tube and have some ideas in hand but if all else fails I may elect to swap the water heater out. I have done this a couple of times in the past during vintage Airstream restorations so it is a reasonable process if I can't get the anode rod out or the threads in the tank are shot.. Age of the water heater on a 2009 Casita may be a factor to convince me to install a new one anyway.


So my question is that if I elect to install a new one that is elect./gas, is the physical size the same and will it fit the same cavity as the one I am replacing?


Has anyone some hands on experience that could share?


Thanks


Greg

[mary and bob]

Use a 1/2" drive hex socket, extension, and breaker bar and the anode should come out. Clean up the threads with a pipe tap if necessary. We have a 1996 SD17 that the water heater worked good on gas, but at that time we wintered in one location with shore power so I installed the Hott Rod electric conversion. It is a heat element that replaces the anode rod. It has a thermostat sensor that has to be attached to the tank, and you'll need a switch to turn it on and off. The water heater can still be operated on propane.

[Apltrez]

well, just got done extracting the anode rod. Used a little bit of vibration from my Ridgid impact driver and then the breaker bar and it came out like butter...almost. Not much left of the anode rod. So I'll clean the tank and threads, install a new anode and think about the hot rod. I guess in using a hot rod it comes to a balance between need of the anode and convenience of electric hot water.


Thanks


Greg

[FlyGuy]

Squirt some rust penetrating oil and allow it to "work" before you apply brute force. Some vibration can also help free up a stubborn connection. Then, as mary and bob say, apply some elbow grease and, I think you'll be able to convince said rod to come out intact. DO remember to "blow out" the debris that will certainly be IN the tank. A good vinegar soak after the anode rod is out should help a lot. Of course, do NOT work on the hot water tank until it has cooled to a safe temperature.

[Paul O.]

My Scamp tank never had the sacrificial anode, but had a lot of mineral deposit inside when I got it. I was once winterizing and left the water system pressurized by mistake. When I took the plastic plug out, the gush of water took out a huge amount of calcium deposit. It probably would have never come out had I not made that mistake. Now I do it on purpose.

[Captleemo]

All anode rods require a 1 1/16" socket. I would recommend an impact deep socket. Lowes sells sockets like that individually at a very reasonable price. Having the deep socket means that you shouldn't need an extension. I had to change out the anode in my house and had to use an impact wrench to break it loose. I use a wire wheel designed for a dremel tool to clean the threads in the water heater and they work very well. https://www.amazon.com/Atoplee-20pcs...0005601&sr=8-5. I heard a tip from the Willful Wanderer where he said that when installing a new anode rod leave the first 3 or 4 threads free of teflon tape to make it easier to get the threads started by hand so you don't cross thread them.

[Apltrez]

Thanks to all for the great advice and tips. Rod is out, tank drained and just before our first early morning below freezing.


Over the years with previous Scamp, Casita and Bigfoots and some Argosy and Airstream restorations thrown on, this site has always been a great source of information.


Much appreciated


Greg

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Its a good idea to reinstall a new rod for the winter even know there no water in there . This will help protect the threads from rusting over winter.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Apltrez

Thanks to all for the great advice and tips. Rod is out, tank drained and just before our first early morning below freezing.


Over the years with previous Scamp, Casita and Bigfoots and some Argosy and Airstream restorations thrown on, this site has always been a great source of information.


Much appreciated


Greg

Now you learned an important lesson. If the rod is gone then it was used up and the tank had started corroding. Make sure you replaced it in the future before this happens.