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01-14-2021, 04:34 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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kitchen sink faucet broke on Casita SD17
I connected to a city water source, and the base of my kitchen faucet broke and sprayed water everywhere. I don't even know where to start, or what exactly broke. It looks like this cheap plastic chrome ring broke, and caused water to leak around the base. It's always leaked, maybe it was broke and I didn't realize it. Any idea where to get whatever I need to replace?
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01-14-2021, 08:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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I would go to dyers and order a new faucet
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01-14-2021, 11:14 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
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I would pull straight up to remove the spout and take it to a hardware store. These are usually off-the-shelf parts.
If you can't find this part at any hardware store in your area I would replace the whole faucet. It's a relatively easy job.
--Dan Meyer
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01-15-2021, 10:04 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,993
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Or you can go totally overboard like I did and replace the whole useless "birdbath" they call a sink with a new larger and deeper sink that comes with a chromed brass gooseneck faucet (yes real chromed brass, not chromed plastic,) with one of these:
Krowne Model 1419 (And it comes with the faucet in the picture, as well as a stainless steel drain fitting included.)
https://www.katom.com/381-HS1419.html
Oh, and my new two burner galley stove to replace that miserable Suburban POS too!
https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometi...st-iron-grate/
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01-15-2021, 09:17 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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If it has been leaking and broke from the pressure of the water main it was likely overdue for replacement. Remove the old one and take it with you to Home Depot, for sizing purposes, and get the model that works for you. This is a simple fix. I'd suggest not trying to fix the old one as the parts usually cost most of the price of a new one and the old parts you reuse could fail at any time.
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01-16-2021, 08:02 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,993
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If you just want to replace the faucet only, any standard 4" bar faucet will fit the same footprint, and you can pick out any style or design you want, as long as the faucet is a standard two hole 4" unit.
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01-16-2021, 10:30 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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I was curious if I could just replace the fastener that cracked, but I went ahead and ordered a new one, I hope it fits: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JRJF72
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01-16-2021, 10:43 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
Or you can go totally overboard like I did and replace the whole useless "birdbath" they call a sink with a new larger and deeper sink that comes with a chromed brass gooseneck faucet (yes real chromed brass, not chromed plastic,) with one of these:
Krowne Model 1419 (And it comes with the faucet in the picture, as well as a stainless steel drain fitting included.)
https://www.katom.com/381-HS1419.html
Oh, and my new two burner galley stove to replace that miserable Suburban POS too!
https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometi...st-iron-grate/
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Wow, those look awesome!
My stove-top needs some work:
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01-16-2021, 03:49 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoot
I connected to a city water source, and the base of my kitchen faucet broke and sprayed water everywhere. I don't even know where to start, or what exactly broke. It looks like this cheap plastic chrome ring broke, and caused water to leak around the base. It's always leaked, maybe it was broke and I didn't realize it. Any idea where to get whatever I need to replace?
Attachment 139048
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These sink faucets are not worth fixing. These like to leak and are junk. One of Casita's bad things. We replaced ours with a bar faucet. Any 4" faucet will fit but it is the hookups that you need to make sure works. Some faucets don't have the correct fit for the water lines. Otherwise they are easy to replace. Bought ours at Home Depot, but any hardware store have them.
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01-17-2021, 11:05 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,993
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I agree that the cheap OEM faux chrome plated plastic faucets are junk and not worth the time and trouble to fix. Buy a good brass one and never have a problem with it again.
And fwiw, all the faucets manufactured nowadays that I know of have the same threaded water hose attachment ends, that are 1/2" Male NPT. It's pretty much an industry standard.
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01-18-2021, 12:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
I agree that the cheap OEM faux chrome plated plastic faucets are junk and not worth the time and trouble to fix. Buy a good brass one and never have a problem with it again.
And fwiw, all the faucets manufactured nowadays that I know of have the same threaded water hose attachment ends, that are 1/2" Male NPT. It's pretty much an industry standard.
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OK I agree size is standard but sometimes the length of the waterline on the faucet can be very different in length and makes it very difficult to attach the faucet to the current water line. We ran into that once and returned the faucet for one with shorter lines on it. You can always cut the water line but then that opens up more work. We try to use the old threaded nut for easy installation. Then it is a few minute job.
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01-18-2021, 03:05 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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Jann, some advice from someone who learned it the hard way. Don't try to repair an old fixture. If one component has failed the others may not be far behind. Replacement isn't likely to cost much more than one repair and there may be more than one. A new fixture means no more repair, no more leaks and the problem is solved. When you buy your new fixture you should also consider new water lines. Get the flexible ones with the metal braiding. They have screw fittings on both ends so no soldering and because they are flexible, routing is much easier.
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01-18-2021, 07:52 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
Jann, some advice from someone who learned it the hard way. Don't try to repair an old fixture. If one component has failed the others may not be far behind. Replacement isn't likely to cost much more than one repair and there may be more than one. A new fixture means no more repair, no more leaks and the problem is solved. When you buy your new fixture you should also consider new water lines. Get the flexible ones with the metal braiding. They have screw fittings on both ends so no soldering and because they are flexible, routing is much easier.
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Our trailer doesn't have supply lines. The nut to screw onto the faucet line is a part of the water line. That is why we didn't change it out. We woiuld have had to crimp a shut off fitting on it. We don't have a crimp tool.
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01-18-2021, 08:03 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg
Or you can go totally overboard like I did and replace the whole useless "birdbath" they call a sink with a new larger and deeper sink that comes with a chromed brass gooseneck faucet (yes real chromed brass, not chromed plastic,) with one of these:
Krowne Model 1419 (And it comes with the faucet in the picture, as well as a stainless steel drain fitting included.)
https://www.katom.com/381-HS1419.html
Oh, and my new two burner galley stove to replace that miserable Suburban POS too!
https://pantherrvproducts.com/dometi...st-iron-grate/
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How much work was it to install those? Were they just dropped in?
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01-18-2021, 11:52 PM
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#15
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Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream
Nevada
Posts: 65
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Most of the time with plumbing replacing the whole unit makes more sense than trying to put a band aid on it! The new unit looks awesome! I have done the same thing with my kitchen sink! It looked so nice I went ahead and got a new one for the bathroom.
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01-19-2021, 07:49 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 1,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whoot
How much work was it to install those? Were they just dropped in?
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The sink and stove I installed both required a little bit of trimming of the fiberglass cutouts in the galley counter top to fit them, but it wasn't an insurmountable problem. Both cutouts had to be enlarged a bit.
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01-19-2021, 10:23 AM
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#17
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Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream
Nevada
Posts: 65
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I am sure Greg that your final results were well worth the effort! Pictures look like it came out quite nice! Good job.
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01-19-2021, 04:58 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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The hot water (red) connection to the new faucet leaks. The original one leaked. I tried to tighten it, but it still leaks when pressurized. I use to have to put a bucket under it, I guess I still do. I bought some NPT tape for upgrading my shower head, can I use that to seal the faucet? It's more like a string of putty.
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01-19-2021, 09:07 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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Is this a new connection?
Teflon tape may help.
I use to have a large box of plumbing parts but I threw it away. The few bucks it costs me to buy new parts is well worth the savings in frustration, LOL.
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01-19-2021, 10:03 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: K
Trailer: C
Iowa
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_L
Is this a new connection?
Teflon tape may help.
I use to have a large box of plumbing parts but I threw it away. The few bucks it costs me to buy new parts is well worth the savings in frustration, LOL.
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It's an old connection and a new faucet. The red plex water line and metal connector were not changed. The faucet and its plastic connectors are new.
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