New Anode-Tape or No Tape

[HAPPYSCAMPER76]

Hello, bought an 98 Scamp trailer recently and have been busy doing a bit of this and a bit of that.

It is getting chilly here in the Sierra Nevada's now, so I tried to winterize the trailer today. I pulled the drain plug(Anode) for the hot water heater. The shaft for the plug was only about 1/8 inch thick so I assume it was an old anode that was completely gone? Anyway I got another Anode and put it in (actually it did not thread all the way in as the threads are longer than the old one, but I read in another thread that this is ok). My question is do I need to put teflon tape on the threads? or will the plug be fine without putting tape on the threads?

[Cathi]

You need Teflon tape or you may have a heck of a time getting it out of there later.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by HAPPYSCAMPER76

Hello, bought an 98 Scamp trailer recently and have been busy doing a bit of this and a bit of that.

It is getting chilly here in the Sierra Nevada's now, so I tried to winterize the trailer today. I pulled the drain plug(Anode) for the hot water heater. The shaft for the plug was only about 1/8 inch thick so I assume it was an old anode that was completely gone? Anyway I got another Anode and put it in (actually it did not thread all the way in as the threads are longer than the old one, but I read in another thread that this is ok). My question is do I need to put teflon tape on the threads? or will the plug be fine without putting tape on the threads?

Originally Posted by Cathi

You need Teflon tape or you may have a heck of a time getting it out of there later.

Chances are that if you remove the anode periodically to inspect it (spring and fall) you will never have a problem getting it out even without tape or pipe thread sealant. If you do use Teflon tape or a non-toxic pipe thread sealant (typically used to prevent leaks), you should test for continuity between the tank and the plug using an electrical meter. Without continuity, the anode will not protect the tank. That being said, I have used both over several years of RVing and check for continuity every time, but have never had any incident when the meter indicated lack of continuity.

[Donna D.]

Tape. Cheap insurance.

[Alf S.]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Tape. Cheap insurance.

Hi: Donna D... Former President Richard M Nixon thought so!!! I was told by my RVTech not to use it.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Alf S.

Hi: Donna D... Former President Richard M Nixon thought so!!! I was told by my RVTech not to use it.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

What reason did he give? Didn't he have any on hand?

[David Tilston]

A sacrificial anode has to have electrical continuity to work. That said, I have a hard time seeing how the tape would not be pierced in several places when tightening the plug. As mentioned, a continuity check would be good.

[hwdornbush]

My trailer came this year from the Escape factory with tape on the threads, so I plan to continue that practice. There must have been continuity as I saw some deterioration of the anode.

[Wayne Collins]

Originally Posted by Cathi

You need Teflon tape or you may have a heck of a time getting it out of there later.

Or, you can use "NEVR-SEEZE" on the threads.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

Or, you can use "NEVR-SEEZE" on the threads.

Or you can go to Home Depot, Lowe's, Menard's, and probably Canadian Tire and buy pipe joint compound that is rated for potable water. The advantage of using compound is that it does not leave pieces in the threads that you will want to pick out before reinstalling the anode as Teflon tape does.

As I said in a previous post, I check continuity every time I have reinstalled the anode in any trailer I have owned, and have NEVER had either tape or compound interfere with continuity.

[frank_a]

I always tape stuff like that!

Frank

[sokhapkin]

When metal is threaded to metal, it must be taped or the threading will leak.

[Alf S.]

Originally Posted by frank_a

I always tape stuff like that!

Frank

Hi: frank_a... Nixon taped everything too!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by HAPPYSCAMPER76

I pulled the drain plug(Anode) for the hot water heater. The shaft for the plug was only about 1/8 inch thick so I assume it was an old anode that was completely gone? Anyway I got another Anode and put it in (actually it did not thread all the way in as the threads are longer than the old one, but I read in another thread that this is ok). My question is do I need to put teflon tape on the threads? or will the plug be fine without putting tape on the threads?

It is VERY possible your Scamp's hot heater never had an Anode rod.

If its an Atwood water heater they do not use or need Anodes. The tank of the Atwood is made of aluminium and thus not subject to the same corrosion issues that Suburban water heater is.

Edit to add: Atwood btw normally uses plastic plugs from the factory so no nylon tape is needed.

[C&G in FL]

Just better hope that the plastic plug in the Atwood doesn't break when you are trying to remove it to drain water heater. Removing the plug remnants can be a time consuming chore.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[frank_a]

I always use tape!

Frank

[Iowa Dave]

Tape for me, inexpensive and seals well. I do use the tip of my muskrat skinning blade on my pocket knife to trace the threads and remove any evidence of old tape. I sterilize with Cedar Ridge bourbon or Templeton Rye.
Iowa Dave