replace pipe from grey tank Bigfoot

[Deb Mac]

Hello all. In the process of replacing the dump valves on the Bigfoot and the screws are totally rusted & frozen on the grey side so I will NOT be able to remove them as I hoped (I have put a dose of Blaster on them with the hope they might free up by tomorrow). But I am looking at the plumbing coming out of the grey tank and it is a series of 4 45's leaving absolutely nowhere to cut and couple anything if I need to cut out that old dump valve completely.

I suppose I could cut right at the connection and use a reducing coupler to get myself back to the correct ID pipe for the valve.

What would be involved in completely removing the pipe at the grey tank so I can plumb in a straight length of abs with only 2 45's? It almost looks like there is a screw on fitting right at the tank (similar to what you would see under the sink on the drain line) but I'm sure if that's the case, it is also probably nicely seized up after many years, and the end result would be a cracked grey tank!

Thanks.

[Deb Mac]

Well the screws will not move. Of course, to top it all off, there is no way to get at 3 of the 4 the screw heads in a straight line because of the 3" outlet. So it is out with the multi-tool to cut off the 3" outlet, so I can actually access the screws on the 1 1/2" gate valve. If I can get the screws out (I do have a set of "stripped screw head removal" bits) then I can put the new waste valve set on and deal with the multiple serpentine 45 angles at some other date.

Ideally though, I would someday like to get a new drain line on the grey tank that has a more direct route to my waste outlet.

[stevebaz]

can you take your multi tool and cut right through the screws right through the valve body thus destroying the valve but making repair possible?

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

can you take your multi tool and cut right through the screws right through the valve body thus destroying the valve but making repair possible?

It's possible. That's more or less what I am hoping to do. I will still need to get the main 3" body off first so I can really see what I'm doing. I might even be able to just grind the heads of those screws off with the dremel once I can see them. I wish my old eyes could see close up. My glasses are fine for reading, but if I have to get right in there, I can't focus. I do have a pair of REALLY close work cheaters somewhere that might let me stick my head right under there and see what's what without having to rip the front off of the assembly.

Fingers crossed.

[stevebaz]

have fun. plumbing sucks and plumbing in an RV sucks worse. sometimes you wonder to save 50 cents the designers make you go through all this hassle.

[Deb Mac]

I've done some plumbing at home with pex and replaced the drains under the double kitchen sink - but there's room to move and maneuver - not so much under the ass end of the Bigfoot! I'm going to pull out the jack and 4x4's and see if I can block it up a bit to give me a bit more space.

[Civilguy]

It's a drag when ABS is made up with no plain pipe between fittings.

I carved the (glued) pipe out of a fitting one time. This can be done because the fittings are comprised of solid material, but it is a character-building exercise requiring a great deal of patience.

Fernco has a line of rubber couplers that fit a variety of pipe sizes, however I would consider that approach a last resort. If you even have room, you'd need to establish that they offer compatible sizes to match the ODs involved.

https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings

It sounds like cutting the bolts along with the valve body might be the best approach. If that works, maybe you can make up the connections with stainless steel fasteners for "next time".

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

It's a drag when ABS is made up with no plain pipe between fittings.

I carved the (glued) pipe out of a fitting one time. This can be done because the fittings are comprised of solid material, but it is a character-building exercise requiring a great deal of patience.

It sounds like cutting the bolts along with the valve body might be the best approach. If that works, maybe you can make up the connections with stainless steel fasteners for "next time".

LOL - I don't feel like building any more character today!
My little dremel did the job - anything bigger and it would never have fit back there. I had managed to get one bolt out yesterday the old fashioned way. It was the only one that wan't hidden by the rest of the valve assembly. The rest just got their heads chopped off... slowly... painfully!

[minke]

Originally Posted by Deb Mac

... I do have a pair of REALLY close work cheaters somewhere that might let me stick my head right under there and see what's what without having to rip the front off of the assembly. ...

When working with things that spin really fast I'd suggest safety glasses. An example that happens to be 2 diopters is:


https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Readers-...lasses/3086781


You have to be at peace with bifocals with these.

[stevebaz]

Get those specs with the lights on the temples. as for your dump valves keep the old Tee handles as they are prone to pull the threads out of the handle at the most inopportune times. bet you feel like a dentist now. pull out the rotten stuff and replace it with new. Good thing you didn't have to do this with a full tank and a broken valve.

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by minke

When working with things that spin really fast I'd suggest safety glasses. An example that happens to be 2 diopters is:


https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-Readers-...lasses/3086781


You have to be at peace with bifocals with these.

I have a pair of safety goggles. They fit over the specs. Fog up a bit sometimes but they do the job.

[Deb Mac]

Originally Posted by stevebaz

Get those specs with the lights on the temples. as for your dump valves keep the old Tee handles as they are prone to pull the threads out of the handle at the most inopportune times. bet you feel like a dentist now. pull out the rotten stuff and replace it with new. Good thing you didn't have to do this with a full tank and a broken valve.

Thanks for the heads up on the handles. I will put them aside in the spares box. Just heading to Home Depot tomorrow to pick up a couple of elbows and everything will be together.