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05-24-2022, 10:17 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Philip
Trailer: Bigfoot 1995 B17CB
California
Posts: 28
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Tankless Water Heater
Hi,
I'm thinking about changing out the old water heater in my 1995 Bigfoot 17CB.
Any advice or experiences?
Thanks,
Phil
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05-24-2022, 10:38 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
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Has the old one failed, or do you just want a different style?
What is it about the tankless that seems appealing? Each type of WH has its advantages and disadvantages.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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05-24-2022, 10:46 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Name: Philip
Trailer: Bigfoot 1995 B17CB
California
Posts: 28
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Tankless Water Heater
Looking to "upgrade."
Had issues with pilot, etc.
If affordable, and not too big an issue with change-out, would consider.
Phil
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05-25-2022, 08:21 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
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You are the only one who can decide if a tankless is an upgrade or not.
Tankless disadvantages:
More expensive to buy
Does not bolt right in, but needs plumbing and venting changes
More complicated design
Will very likely cause more water use, so may not be as good for boondocking
Will likely use more propane
More sensitive to freezing
Advantages:
Smaller vent through the wall of the trailer
Can provide "endless" showers
Does not have a large tank always full of water
So, If you don't mind altering the trailer to accept the tankless, you only want to camp with hookups, and the cost and complexity is not a concern, the tankless is probably the best choice. If you are going to be camping in colder weather, without hookups, and you want a cheaper easier installation, the tank style is likely the better choice.
You have to decide what "upgrade" means in your situation.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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05-25-2022, 11:47 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
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They require a lot of energy in a short time.
The heating cycle only starts after you open a tap/shower. so lots of cold water down the drain.
The faster the flow, the less it heats.
Is there an electric model? Might need a 50 amp supply.
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05-25-2022, 09:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullbooker
Hi,
I'm thinking about changing out the old water heater in my 1995 Bigfoot 17CB.
Any advice or experiences?
Thanks,
Phil
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Newer water heaters don't have the lighting or blow out of pilot problems. The electric/propane models are awesome. The pilot starts with a switch inside. We used to hate lighting the water heater when we had to do that. The electric mode means being hooked to shore power and turning the switch on outside. Just make sure if on electric to turn it off every time you unhook so you don't accidentally drain the tank and hook to shore power for some reason. We only heat the water enough to do what we want to do then shut off the pilot if on propane. We use very little propane all summer. Also it would be much simpler to replace the tank with a new one since they should fit in the same hole.
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05-26-2022, 06:13 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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In my Scamp I installed a tankless water heater in the tongue. I had extended the frame by about 18 inches to allow room for the Mini-Split A/C compressor and to the side I made a stainless steel mounting . enclosure for it.
It takes a little trial and error to get the water temp where you want it but if has served for a good while.
The main problem I have had with the ~ $100 heater is the small battery box that holds 2 D cell batteries. Water gets into that cheap plastic box and corrodes the contacts and the unit won't power up until you wiggle etc those batteries.
Being an electronic type of guy and having a break away switch power nearby I added a small voltage converter and put it in a sealed pill bottle and did away with those batteries.
The biggest problem with using one of these cheap tankless water heaters is where to mount them.
I got the idea from a coworker who put one on his barbecue trailer so that he met the rules for hot water for cleaning etc.
I like it because it only uses fuel when hot water is needed and there is not 6 gallons of stranded water in it.
Would I do it again - yes.
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05-27-2022, 08:34 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: Mark
Trailer: Casita
New York
Posts: 12
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My Casita has the 6 gallon propane heater with electronic ignition. I can run it on propane and 110v electric at the same time. Performance wise that is close to that of a tank less unit. It gives me plenty of flexibility when boon docking or using full hookups. I never saw a need to go tank less.
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05-27-2022, 03:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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1. I was cheap and the tankless was less than $100.00.
2. I waned the space under the twin beds for storage and other utilities.
3. SWMBO said no LP in the trailer cabin.
4. Technical challenge and I had the space because I extended the frame to reduce the pin weight and to be able to fit in the A/C compressor (also cheap and a technical challenge. Also the roof was not reinforced for the A/C.
5. My Welder made that nice stainless steel cabinet for it.
Your mileage may vary and When we lived in a 39' 5th wheel the 12 gallon LP water heater (LP / Electric) was also more than adequate.
I do notice that when in a campground a neighbors water heater fires it makes a good bit of noise and you cannot heat the tankless when it is firing.
I don't think I would remove a water heater to put in one like mine and I don't think I would install one of the very expensive tankless heaters to replace a late model standard hot water heater either. My Scamp "kit" had no water heater, fridge, heater, A/C or anything else. SWMBO said she did not want holes that bugs could get into the camper and I scarfed in fiberglass panels to fill in all of the stock openings to accomplish that. One reason I have a compressor refrigerator as well.
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06-01-2022, 12:14 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: In the market
New Mexico
Posts: 15
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Had a Girard GSWH-1M Tankless in a Lance, replaced it with a regular old fashion 6 gal propane water heater. The Girard did not work well boondocking , which is what we do mostly. Hooked up to shore water it was still a little inconsistent in temp and flow. After we installed the 6 gal. we had all the hot water we needed. Just my two cents.=, things may have improved since 2013 the year of that Lance that I once owned.
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06-02-2022, 09:24 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
Posts: 387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullbooker
Hi,
I'm thinking about changing out the old water heater in my 1995 Bigfoot 17CB.
Any advice or experiences?
Thanks,
Phil
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I am assuming you have an Atwood water heater. The problem with replacing it is that Dometic, who bought out Atwood has changed the new water heaters size and shape. Basically they are taller and narrower than the old ones like you and I have. Actually they are the same shape as the Suburban water heater, and at the same time, Suburban seeing that there is a market for the original Atwood sized and shaped opening, has created a replacement model to fit.
Dometic does have a conversion kit that consist of filler plates to cover up the excess opening on the sides of the new water heater, and it also has a new door that is as tall as the new unit, but as wide as the old unit, to cover the filler plates.
Link to the Suburban Direct Fit replacement for the old Atwood water heaters
https://suburbanrv.com/water-heating...water-heaters/
Now, I do not like the Suburban because it is a porcelain on steel tank and does not hold up as well as the aluminum tank of the Atwood and Dometic models. Also, Suburban won't release the installation or maintenance manuals unless you are a qualified service technician (whatever that is). I really don't like companies that are not open with their manuals and documents.
Here is the Dometic conversion kit (from old Atwood to new Dometic) (kit in black) https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...y-6-gal-314843
or the same kit in white https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/outdoo...6-gal-_-314842
Note where the door latch is in the middle of the door. The regular door on the new models is prone to lift from the trailer by wind getting under it and this door will be even worse. Many people are resorting to adding additional latches, velcro, etc to the upper corners to make the door lay flat to the body of the trailer while driving.
Old stocks of the Atwood water heaters are gone, thanks to the extreme cold snap in Texas a couple of years ago. Caused a run on water heaters and depleted stocks of the old models. I have a brand new spare, which I am thankful for.
In either case, the installation, after you get past the physical part, is easy. the wiring is to run 120v AC (Romex) to the water heater, and then install a 12v DC control panel. You run 12v DC and ground to the panel, and from the panel you run 4ea 16 or 18 gauge wires to the water heater to control electric, gas, fault light and the ground.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO PacBrake six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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06-03-2022, 10:51 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jann
Trailer: Casita
Colorado
Posts: 1,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA
I am assuming you have an Atwood water heater. The problem with replacing it is that Dometic, who bought out Atwood has changed the new water heaters size and shape. Basically they are taller and narrower than the old ones like you and I have. Actually they are the same shape as the Suburban water heater, and at the same time, Suburban seeing that there is a market for the original Atwood sized and shaped opening, has created a replacement model to fit.
Dometic does have a conversion kit that consist of filler plates to cover up the excess opening on the sides of the new water heater, and it also has a new door that is as tall as the new unit, but as wide as the old unit, to cover the filler plates.
Link to the Suburban Direct Fit replacement for the old Atwood water heaters
https://suburbanrv.com/water-heating...water-heaters/
Now, I do not like the Suburban because it is a porcelain on steel tank and does not hold up as well as the aluminum tank of the Atwood and Dometic models. Also, Suburban won't release the installation or maintenance manuals unless you are a qualified service technician (whatever that is). I really don't like companies that are not open with their manuals and documents.
Here is the Dometic conversion kit (from old Atwood to new Dometic) (kit in black) https://www.dometic.com/en-us/outdoo...y-6-gal-314843
or the same kit in white https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/outdoo...6-gal-_-314842
Note where the door latch is in the middle of the door. The regular door on the new models is prone to lift from the trailer by wind getting under it and this door will be even worse. Many people are resorting to adding additional latches, velcro, etc to the upper corners to make the door lay flat to the body of the trailer while driving.
Old stocks of the Atwood water heaters are gone, thanks to the extreme cold snap in Texas a couple of years ago. Caused a run on water heaters and depleted stocks of the old models. I have a brand new spare, which I am thankful for.
In either case, the installation, after you get past the physical part, is easy. the wiring is to run 120v AC (Romex) to the water heater, and then install a 12v DC control panel. You run 12v DC and ground to the panel, and from the panel you run 4ea 16 or 18 gauge wires to the water heater to control electric, gas, fault light and the ground.
Charles
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It could be they don't give you the manuals since it involves propane lines. They may want a professional to do the tank so the lines are done correctly and safely. I read a lot of posts that are questionable in safety IMO.
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03-11-2024, 08:53 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Currently shopping
IN
Posts: 3
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Thinking about going tankless in my Bigfoot. Unlimited hot RV water heater when boondocking sounds awesome. Yeah, install's a pain, but worth it for not running out mid-shower!
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03-15-2024, 09:52 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Charles
Trailer: Bigfoot
Georgia
Posts: 387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utape23
Thinking about going tankless in my Bigfoot. Unlimited hot RV water heater when boondocking sounds awesome. Yeah, install's a pain, but worth it for not running out mid-shower!
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Just curious where your unlimited water is going to come from, and where it is going to go to, while you are boondocking.
From what I have read on various forums, The majority of RV tankless users are less than delighted with their tankless units.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO PacBrake six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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03-16-2024, 06:01 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
Posts: 1,087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utape23
Thinking about going tankless in my Bigfoot. Unlimited hot RV water heater when boondocking sounds awesome. Yeah, install's a pain, but worth it for not running out mid-shower!
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Which model Bigfoot did you end up with?
__________________
If the shoe fits...
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