There are water pressure regulators and then... - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-24-2021, 07:46 AM   #1
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Name: JD
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Florida
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There are water pressure regulators and then...

Just a note on water pressure regulators from recent experiences.
I have always had one of those small end of hose brass regulators to protect the trailer system, but I had used hone type PEX tubing and fittings so I never worried about it.
However this past week I thought that the pressure regulator was not necessary as it tended to restrict the flow. I took it off and in the night the higher pressure caused a leak at the pump, under the bed.
This was more than a little irritating due to the water and the "I did this to myself" problem.
Since the higher flow allowed the tankless water heater to work better I looked for a solution and ordered one of the better real regulators with a gauge.
When it arrived I installed it and what a difference!
Instead of a trickle from the sink faucet a good flow there and in the shower.
Plus I know the pressure at the hose from the gauge!
So ---- do yourself a favor and spend the $30.00 and get on of the better regulators. It is about $20.00 more, but so much better!
FrankenScamp says thank you for the water!
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Old 07-24-2021, 09:41 AM   #2
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Can you recommend a good brand of water pressure regulator?
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Old 07-24-2021, 09:55 AM   #3
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This is what I'm using, but I built mine from parts. I set mine at 35 PSI. The price on Amazon is ridiculously cheap at about 20-25 dollars.


https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/s...dUx9fJ0fOYiJgA



https://www.google.com/search?q=RVGU...w=1190&bih=771
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:13 AM   #4
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The pressure regulator is an important piece. But, if you have a tank style water heater, and you use a regulator, you should have an accumulator tank too. This is because water cannot flow backwards through a regulator.

When the water heater comes on the water expands in the system and causes the pressure to rise to the pop point of the water heater pressure relief valve, which is at least 100 PSI.

So, the pressure regulator can and will cause the pressure in the system to rise to at least 100 PSI, with a tank style water heater and no accumulator.

One way around this is to let a faucet drip when the water heater is turned on, but that is only practical if you have shore tie water.
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:38 AM   #5
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Thanks John,
Josh
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Old 07-24-2021, 10:42 AM   #6
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Is there an accumulator that's practical for our tiny systems?


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Old 07-24-2021, 10:43 AM   #7
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I have an accumulator and the new regulator as well as a tankless water heater so I should be good.
cheap one


Better kind


Accumulator


All found with a quick search on Amazon
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:02 AM   #8
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I think I used this one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltP View Post
Is there an accumulator that's practical for our tiny systems?Walt
Mine is not plumb, but it is sitting on the floor and screwed to the wall to prevent bouncing.
https://smile.amazon.com/SHURFLO-182...s%2C303&sr=8-3
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:05 AM   #9
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I put two of those Seaflow tanks in my HQ19 and it reduced the pressure rise to about 20 PSI over the pump cut-out pressure. A very good modification.

You can run the pump output to the accumulator by putting it the line after the pump, or you can cap off one side and run a plumbing pigtail to it in a remote location. On mine, I installed a tee between two of them and ran a pigtail to the tee. The pigtail is teed into the pump output line. I capped both sides of the arrangement. Set the pressure just a bit lower than the cut in pressure of your pump. My regulator is set at 35 PSI regulated from shore (which is simply static pressure), pump cuts in at about 40 PSI, and the accumulator is set at about 38 PSI. So, when on shore water, I have nearly 35 PSI at the faucets. When on tank water, it varies between 40-45.
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:42 AM   #10
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Take the good regulator inside...

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
I have an accumulator and the new regulator as well as a tankless water heater so I should be good.
cheap one Better kind
...in the winter to prevent freezing. the pictured gauge has an oil filled face to prevent vibration and is costly to replace. Once water in the back of the gauge freezes it may regulate fine but the gauge will no longer be accurate. ( also, do not leave it behind for the next camper, {tnx, ur welcome})

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Old 07-25-2021, 05:23 AM   #11
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fixer upper

Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
I have an accumulator and the new regulator as well as a tankless water heater so I should be good.
cheap one


Better kind


Accumulator


All found with a quick search on Amazon
We normally only use the on board pump but had a problem with shore water it made the line at the shower come apart and loosened other connectors. Maybe connect this setup under the closet floor at inlet for shore water? Do not need it for our regular setup running water from tank.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-25-2021, 05:38 AM   #12
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Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raspy View Post
The pressure regulator is an important piece. But, if you have a tank style water heater, and you use a regulator, you should have an accumulator tank too. This is because water cannot flow backwards through a regulator.

When the water heater comes on the water expands in the system and causes the pressure to rise to the pop point of the water heater pressure relief valve, which is at least 100 PSI.

So, the pressure regulator can and will cause the pressure in the system to rise to at least 100 PSI, with a tank style water heater and no accumulator.

One way around this is to let a faucet drip when the water heater is turned on, but that is only practical if you have shore tie water.
We have no problems while running pump under sink; maybe if installed at wall back flow restricted hose inlet for outside water and set to pressure of inside 12v water pump?

The original flexible 3/8" copper lines were replaced a few years back and we did not have any problems till this year and that is believed to be at least in part due to shore water pressure.

The replacement lines are clear 3/8" type, the locks holding connections failed under the additional pressure and/or possibly in combination with time and other factors.

Was able to open up wall cavity connect the shower line and tighten all the other line connections in trailer. Two hours and all fixed. Line came apart at the shower taps.

The power line pushes in and pulls out beside the water inlet under closet floor, over the wheel well and it is a tight space for this. Shore power line may have contributed to the problem as well. Our next two trips are to locations that do not have shore water so have time.

Will change the power setup first; have ordered and received a unit too remove the pull out line and connect direct at wall. It will be wired to the surge protector that will be now inside and connected to the 15 amp breaker that connects to the original DC power regulator in front of the wheel well.

Question is:
Should hooking this setup to wall inside of the hose inlet be ok as the inlet also has a restrictor preventing water back flow? If pressure matches the 12v pump pressure at the regulator any normal back flow seems possible by normal means?

P.S. the 12v pump will not loose pressure after days?
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Old 07-25-2021, 11:08 AM   #13
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Borden, I'm sorry, I don't understand what you are talking about.
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Old 07-28-2021, 04:00 PM   #14
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Pressure regulators broke

We have two pressure regulators with gauges and we thought they were well made. Both gauges broke. Now I adjust them by setting the pressure to match the pump pressure when I use the external shower.
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Old 09-15-2021, 07:09 PM   #15
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Re opening this one..........

Bordon is correct, the city water inlet is also a check valve so whether the regulator prevents back flow or not doesn't matter, the inlet check valve does and that is a problem, sort of. There are zillions of RV's running around without accumulators and they don't blow up.

If you maintain your water heater correctly, they are designed to operate with an air pocket in the top of them, which acts as an accumulator. it does however, require you to reset that air gap every week or so, as air absorbs into water and the air pocket will go away over time and the tank becomes "water logged". This is the same thing that happens to a non-bladder well tank.

For Atwood/Dometic http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Atwo...ice-manual.pdf

PRESSURE-TEMPERATURE RELIEF VALVE
Weeping or dripping of a pressure-temperature relief valve while the water heater is running DOES NOT mean it is
defective. This is normal expansion of water as it is heated in the closed water system of a recreation vehicle. The
Atwood water heater tank is designed with an internal air gap at the top of the tank to reduce the possibility of weeping
and dripping. In time, the expanding water will absorb this air. To replace the air follow these steps:
Step 1: Turn off water heater
Step 2: Turn off incoming water supply
Step 3: Open the closest hot water faucet in the coach
Step 4: Pull handle of pressure-temperature relief valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops.
Step 5: Allow pressure-temperature relief valve to snap shut, turn on water supply and close faucet.


For the Suburban water heater https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-...ter_Manual.pdf

WATER WEEPING OR DRIPPING FROM PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE
You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater’s Pressure
and Temperature (P & T) Relief Valve when your water heater is operating. W ater
weeping or dripping from the P & T Valve does not always mean the P & T Valve
is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational
vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water.
W hen the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P & T
Valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.
Suburban recom m ends that a check valve not be installed directly at the inlet to
the water heater tank. This will increase weeping of the pressure relief valve.
WARNING! Do not remove or plug the relief valve.
One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket
at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design.
However, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater.
To replenish this air pocket:
1. Turn off water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out on the handle of the Pressure Relief (P & T) Valve and allow water
to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release handle on P & T Valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close faucet and turn on cold water supply; as the tank fills, the air pocket
will develop.
Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping
of the P & T Valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may
elect to install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the
tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.


Thus, a water heater tank with a proper head of air on it does not need a accumulator.

The accumulator serves largely to smooth out pulsations of the pump and prevent the pump from cycling as often. It still runs the same amount of time, but in longer but fewer cycles.

Hope this helps someone.

Charles
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