Water Pump noise - normal? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-18-2013, 11:47 AM   #21
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Gpm isn't what drives that, it's the psi.
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:50 PM   #22
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That would be my thought too, but in both cases the pump was essentially running wide open, 0 psi. If any pressure was developed, it would be minimal, and you would think the pump with supposedly greater volume would create more.
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:50 PM   #23
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You can't have flow without pressure (in this case). It's possibly one pump is damaged also, but I would bet its the pressure difference.

IIRC, my old pump is 55 psi, and many of the quiet ones I see around are 35-40psi now.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:02 PM   #24
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I think you're referring to the 'Cut-off' pressure , which in the case of the 205 series pump is not adjustable, whereas the 'Quiet Quad' (and most newer pumps) are adjustable. But, like I said, both pumps were running virtually wide open (not cycling at all). I think the older pumps were rated somewhat conservatively, and newer ones optimistically.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:20 PM   #25
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I have the same old shur flo, and it cycles with the faucet or shower or outside water wide open (and I even removed the stupid aerators).

So mine is hitting the pressure switch while running. I'm not sure why yours isn't.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #26
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Both pumps will generate lots of pressure, and a 30 ft.+ long stream if used with a fine nozzle (2x 5/32" on my home made 'Tank Blaster), and will cycle with that. However, neither cycles with the standard kitchen sprayer, they just run continuous.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:47 PM   #27
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What happens if you open more than one at a time, or maybe all at once?
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman View Post
What happens if you open more than one at a time, or maybe all at once?
No idea. I don't think that's happened. I would try it, but I don't care to dry both of my tanks afterwards. I'm lazy.

When the faucet is running its just brrttt…brrttt…brrttt…

Have you done any work to them? Mine was leaking water out static, and sucking air in when running, and did run non-stop. No repair kit, and shurflo wanted $60 for a new pump head, which seemed pointless. I took it apart and siliconed it up for free. So far, so good.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:55 PM   #29
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The Shurflo 205, I took the switch housing off, inverted for better clearance from floor, then looked at the open passage to switch plunger and decided to put it back, as it would be too easy for dirt etc to jam it. Other than that, nothing.
The Flojet was replaced in a motorhome, because it was leaking a bit (the switch mounting screws were never properly tightened. You could see daylight between the switch lug and the pump body on one side). Tightened the screws and replaced the O-rings on the fittings. Nothing else.
If I shut off the spray,(with either pump), it might go 'Pup-Pup' and stop. and won't restart until I open the spray again. No internal leakage or leakback on either pump.
When I asked Shurflo (manufacturer's parts desk)
Kevin McLean
SHURflo/Sherwood/Pentair Customer Service
3545 Harbor Gateway South #103
Costa Mesa CA 92626-1457
about parts, they said 'Nothing available' last sold over 20 years ago.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #30
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Interesting, is your faucet an rv one?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:06 PM   #31
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I really don't have a faucet per se.
I'm going to use the 205 for a gray water toilet flush system, using a standard Moen kitchen sprayer, and that's what I've been testing the pumps with. The only chems I use in my holding tanks (Gray and Black) are water softener (Calgon) and regular detergent. I am also going to retain the fresh water flush plumbing, but install a shut-off valve on the supply, so I have both options available, without danger of cross-contamination.
At $60 for a replacement head, repair is not economical. I can buy a complete new Shurflo with an in-line strainer (worth about $10 extra), delivered to Seattle, with two year warranty for $58. And that's the latest 4 chamber basic model 4008-101-A65/E65 (quieter, less amps, and smoother running)
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:11 PM   #32
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Interesting. Only suggestion I would have would be to get a 3 port valve that only allows two ports at a time, instead of two two port valves. It would eliminate any brain farts.

Agreed on the replacement cost, that's why I siliconed mine. I wasn't out much, it was junk if I didn't try it. We'll see how long it works. If not, I'll shell out the money for a variable flow.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:34 PM   #33
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I think you're talking about a 3-port selector valve with gray on 1 port, fresh on the other port? There are potential gray-fresh cross-contamination issues with that. I plan to just shut off the fresh flush and use the spray, under normal situations. When I don't have sufficient gray, I can revert to standard operation by just turning the fresh valve on, and not use the spray. Personally, I wouldn't spend the money for a variable flow for my purposes.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:43 PM   #34
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Ohhhhh, are you talking about the fresh water in the regular inlet, and the gray water to the sprayer only, and using that for flushing, also?

I thought you were hooking the gray water up to the inlet, also.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:50 PM   #35
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Negative!
That's the way the original mod was done, and people questioned the safety. If the two supplies are never connected to a common point, there's no potential danger.
I also think the soft 'soapy' water will clean the 'Bowl' better.
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Old 07-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #36
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Affirmative!
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:09 AM   #37
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Well, I did some more digging, and came up with the following info from the various manufacturers spec sheets:
Artis PDS1 (common on a lot of new RV's) cut-off 40PSI
ShurFlo 4008 series cut-off 55 PSI
(only .5GPM @55psi)
FloJet 4306 (old Quiet Quad) cut-off 35 PSI
LF122 (low flow 1.1GPM) cut-off 35 PSI
3426 (triplex pump) cut-off 25 PSI
3526 (triplex pump) cut-off 50 PSI
Note: I couldn't find any info on the Shur-Flo 205, other than what's on the label.
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