WATER PUMP PROBLEM-Need Help! - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:05 PM   #1
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WATER PUMP PROBLEM-Need Help!

Hello,

We have a 2014 Lil Snoozy with a Shurflo RV 4008 Revolution By-Pass Water Pump which has had very little use.
When the water faucet is turned off, the pump continues to "Pulse" and the interior LED lights "Pulses" at the same time. I can't find any water leaks and when the pump switch is turned off, the water pressure doesn't bleed down until the faucet is reopened. All of the lines have been purged of air several times.
The previous owner suggest either the back flow valve is causing problems or the pressure sensor in the pump is acting up. If so, I don't have a clue as how to correct either one. I was hoping someone here has had the same problem and can give me a simple fix. Tried doing a search here with no avail.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:14 PM   #2
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Adding a water accumulator might stop the pump for continuing to cycle

Of you could buy one from camping world.
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:04 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by HomeCamp View Post
Hello,

We have a 2014 Lil Snoozy with a Shurflo RV 4008 Revolution By-Pass Water Pump which has had very little use.
When the water faucet is turned off, the pump continues to "Pulse" and the interior LED lights "Pulses" at the same time. I can't find any water leaks and when the pump switch is turned off, the water pressure doesn't bleed down until the faucet is reopened. All of the lines have been purged of air several times.
The previous owner suggest either the back flow valve is causing problems or the pressure sensor in the pump is acting up. If so, I don't have a clue as how to correct either one. I was hoping someone here has had the same problem and can give me a simple fix. Tried doing a search here with no avail.

Thanks,
Dan
Check the shore water inlet or the drain plug on the hot water tank. the shore water inlet is a check valve which when it starts to fail will let small amounts of water out.
also... if you have a toilet, look carefully to see if any water is seeping into the bowl.
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:18 PM   #4
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Floyd,
The Snoozy has a Ariston 4 Gallon Electric Water Heater and I'm told it doesn't have a drain plug.

Is the Shore Water Inlet Check Valve located where the water hose connects? If the check valve is bad, does the water come back up the inlet to the outside?
Dan
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Old 05-25-2015, 07:55 PM   #5
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Floyd,
The Snoozy has a Ariston 4 Gallon Electric Water Heater and I'm told it doesn't have a drain plug.

Is the Shore Water Inlet Check Valve located where the water hose connects? If the check valve is bad, does the water come back up the inlet to the outside?
Dan
Yes, the shore water inlet has a little rubber check valve right inside the connection which is intended to prevent water from exiting the trailer when the pump is on. Sometimes it will reseat once you use shore water without the pump. but they are cheaply made and often must be replaced once they start to leak.
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:38 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by carol h View Post
adding a water accumulator might stop the pump for continuing to cycle

of you could buy one from camping world.
this is what i did with our lil snoozy, because of the same reason, and it took care of the problem.
Dave & paula
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:53 PM   #7
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Dan, I had a class A that started to do the same thing. Turned out to be a water connection sucking a bit of air causing the pump to cycle on occasion and low volts on the battery for the lights. There was no water leaking to show a problem. Just started checking all connections in the line and found one that tightened an 1/8th of a turn and solved the pump cycling. Every once and a while you get lucky and get to keep your wallet in your pocket .
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:07 AM   #8
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Cool Same problem with our well

We had the same problem with our well pump back in Wisconsin.

It was the "Snifter valve" which is supposed to allow the water in the pipe from the submerged pump to drain which draws air into the line and adds this air to the pressure tank. If this doesn't work, the water will eventually absorb all the air in the tank, the tank will become water logged and since water compresses hardly at all, the pressure built up too quickly and the pump would cycle on-off-on-off. The pressure tank prevents this with a cushion of air which compresses, yielding smooth pressure changes in the system.
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:35 AM   #9
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water

We had the same problem with our snoozy no water leaks we just put in a accumulator and it solved the problem of LED light show everytime we turned on the water
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:57 AM   #10
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this is what i did with our lil snoozy, because of the same reason, and it took care of the problem.
Dave & paula
Your one of three to have suggested an accumulator. I assume it's connected inline on the output side of the pump? What type of connectors did you use? Did you need to remove the jackknife couch to get access? Can't see how you could have installed it through the bottom cabinet door!

Dan
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:00 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Dan, I had a class A that started to do the same thing. Turned out to be a water connection sucking a bit of air causing the pump to cycle on occasion and low volts on the battery for the lights. There was no water leaking to show a problem. Just started checking all connections in the line and found one that tightened an 1/8th of a turn and solved the pump cycling. Every once and a while you get lucky and get to keep your wallet in your pocket .
I will for sure check every connection before adding an accumulator.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 05-26-2015, 05:10 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
We had the same problem with our snoozy no water leaks we just put in a accumulator and it solved the problem of LED light show everytime we turned on the water
You and Dave are both Snoozy Owners and Both Agree on the same Solution. Did you install the accumulator yourself? Any suggests on how to do it?

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:42 AM   #13
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What worked for me . . .

Dan,
I have the same pump and I also had the same problem. In their troubleshooting section of the manual they mentioned that a restricted inlet line could cause this. They even mentioned in the Installation Preparation section that the culprit could be a restriction caused by a "winterizing valve". I had just installed a winterizing bypass valve, which is about when the cycling problem started. I removed the bypass valve, which was a piece of junk anyway, and the problem went away.

The Winterizing Kit is Camco 36543 Pump Converter Winterizing Kit which I bought and reviewed on Amazon. It got a "1 Star" review from me.

On my system the pump would surge for about 30 minutes after using the water, then it would settle down and stop cycling. It drove me nuts until I fixed it.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:01 AM   #14
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Dan,
I have the same pump and I also had the same problem. In their troubleshooting section of the manual they mentioned that a restricted inlet line could cause this. They even mentioned in the Installation Preparation section that the culprit could be a restriction caused by a "winterizing valve". I had just installed a winterizing bypass valve, which is about when the cycling problem started. I removed the bypass valve, which was a piece of junk anyway, and the problem went away.

The Winterizing Kit is Camco 36543 Pump Converter Winterizing Kit which I bought and reviewed on Amazon. It got a "1 Star" review from me.

On my system the pump would surge for about 30 minutes after using the water, then it would settle down and stop cycling. It drove me nuts until I fixed it.
As far as I can see, there is no By-Pass Valve. Not sure how I would ever tell if I had a Restricted Inlet Line?

Thanks
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:18 AM   #15
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As far as I can see, there is no By-Pass Valve. Not sure how I would ever tell if I had a Restricted Inlet Line?

Thanks
Well, on my 2014 Scamp the line from the water tank to the pump is about 2 feet long and is pretty easy to see for the most part. The restriction would be any device placed in the line that would affect water flow. The pump manual warns against winterizing kits, 90 degree elbows or other restrictions. My line has a 90 degree elbow but nothing else between the tank and the pump. I don't think an elbow would be a problem. The main issue for me was the design of the winterizing kit. By a poor design, it needlessly restricts the water flow. If you can't locate any other significant restrictions in the inlet then some of the other suggestions offered here would likely fix this annoying issue. It drove me nuts until I got it fixed.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:29 AM   #16
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Well, on my 2014 Scamp the line from the water tank to the pump is about 2 feet long and is pretty easy to see for the most part. The restriction would be any device placed in the line that would affect water flow. The pump manual warns against winterizing kits, 90 degree elbows or other restrictions. My line has a 90 degree elbow but nothing else between the tank and the pump. I don't think an elbow would be a problem. The main issue for me was the design of the winterizing kit. By a poor design, it needlessly restricts the water flow. If you can't locate any other significant restrictions in the inlet then some of the other suggestions offered here would likely fix this annoying issue. It drove me nuts until I got it fixed.
If recall correctly, there is one elbow between the tank and pump also. The accumulator seems to be the most logical answer because I can't seem to find a cause. Not sure how best to gain access to the area and room in the short line from the pump outlet to put one because the reflux valve is taking up most of the space. It is vey aggravating! If this is a common problem, are we just looking at poor design? I've had several other RV's without this problem.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:43 AM   #17
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If recall correctly, there is one elbow between the tank and pump also. The accumulator seems to be the most logical answer because I can't seem to find a cause.

Dan
I agree with that. I'd be really surprised to find any other inlet restrictions, such as clogged filter or pump inlet, since the pump is new and had little use, but who knows? Also note, my pump cycling problem would only last for 15-20 minutes or so then stop until I turned on the water again. If your pump behaves differently it might be caused by something else.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:57 PM   #18
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... my pump cycling problem would only last for 15-20 minutes or so then stop until I turned on the water again. If your pump behaves differently it might be caused by something else.
That's correct. It's normal for the water pump to cycle for a while after shutting off the tap -- as long is it doesn't continue. I would just install an accumulator. Should solve the problem.
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Old 05-26-2015, 02:32 PM   #19
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You should be able to install the accumulator just after the pump. The fittings should already be there.You may need to remove the couch and water tank cover to get to it. The system will work OK without it but it sure makes a difference in the noise and lights flickering.


If the pump does not completely stop after the water is shutoff, you may have another problem.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:20 PM   #20
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this is what i did with our lil snoozy, because of the same reason, and it took care of the problem.
Dave & paula
Dave,
How wide is the accumulator? I have 2" of water line from the pump to the reflux valve and 6" of water line from the reflux valve to the T where it goes either to the water heater or bath/kitchen. All of the fittings are crimped. Can Shark-bite fittings be used?

Dan
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