Winterizing without antifreeze, again

[AC0GV]

After reading the post about blowing out air lines, I built this for next year. It cost me about $30 in parts but could be sold as a unit for less if someone actually sold it. My high cost was due to the regulator coming with a 180 PSI gauge and I changed it to 30 PSI, also it came with a different air input than pictured. I also used all brass fittings adding to the cost. (Also, the picture on the box had the regulator assembled wrong.}
Being a belt and suspenders person, I will still use some antifreeze but only after I blow the lines out.

[mary and bob]

All my air compressors have pressure regulators and gauges built in. From my small hand carry Sears compressor to the ones on wheels (2 and 4 HP motors). So all I had to buy was the tire valve type fitting that screws into the water hose connection. I already had a few air chucks that clip on.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

All my air compressors have pressure regulators and gauges built in. From my small hand carry Sears compressor to the ones on wheels (2 and 4 HP motors). So all I had to buy was the tire valve type fitting that screws into the water hose connection. I already had a few air chucks that clip on.

Ditto.
Set for 40 lbs.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

All my air compressors have pressure regulators and gauges built in.

Mine also, but it is to big to move and I wanted the regulator at the RV. This would also be a good choice for some people.
https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Winteri...e%2C195&sr=1-7

[Glenn Baglo]

I gave away my compressor and bought an inexpensive hand pump. Antifreeze goes in through the city water inlet, bypasses the water heater and fills the lines. When you see pink coming out of the taps, you know you're good.

[Dan Meyer]

When you blow out the lines, how do you winterize the water tank, the line to the pump, the pump, and the line out of the pump?



--Dan Meyer

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Dan Meyer

When you blow out the lines, how do you winterize the water tank, the line to the pump, the pump, and the line out of the pump?



--Dan Meyer

You drain the fresh water tank and then run the pump for about 30 seconds to clear any water that remains.

[WaltP]

All 3 tanks retain a small amount of liquid when "fully drained" but their shape allows expansion without creating pressure.


Walt

[Peder_y2k]

I'm still working on "blowing out the air lines"

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

First i drain the water heater, then I bypass it, using a home-buiit loop. Then, using a 'Blowout' fitting with air, I clear all faucets and lines down to 'Low-point' drains. My trailer has a fresh water pickup (for drawing water from a jug), and I use that to suck antifreeze to fill pump to discharge side.
A 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain trap, plus filling the pump takes 1 quart/litre to complete. (25' trailer. )
Note: Drain traps only need a small quantity of A/F to stop solid freeze. If it just gels, no problem. The traps will still block odors from grey tank

[barisad]

I was told another reason to use antifreeze is that it keeps your seals lubricated. Especially the seal in the toilet.

[Jon Vermilye]

Do yourself a favor and be sure to either use an oilless compressor or, if an oil type, that there is a filter to remove it. Getting the oily taste out of the plumbing is difficult.

I drain the hot water tank, put it in bypass, replace or install a new anode, and use 40 PSI air to blow out the plumbing; twice a couple of hours apart. Be sure to include the outside shower if you have one, and, after draining the fresh water tank, run the pump 30 seconds or so. A cup or two of RV antifreeze in the drains & toilet.

[greg60546]

Your setup looks great. Where did you find that hand pump? Thanks.

[greg60546]

Glenn, not sure if my reply got directed properly...I'm wondering where you found that inexpensive hand pump. I haven't been able to locate one. Thanks.

[WaltP]

Jon:
Good tip to include the outside shower. I did forget last year but left for Quartzsite before the real cold settled in.

Walt

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by greg60546

Glenn, not sure if my reply got directed properly...I'm wondering where you found that inexpensive hand pump. I haven't been able to locate one. Thanks.

I don't recall where I got it, and hope I can find it since I have to winterize soon. Probably got it at Canadian Tire ( no help to you ). If I Google, I get Canadian sites.

Google: Camco 36003 RV Hand Pump Kit, Cleaning, Storage ...

www.amazon.ca › Camco-36003-Hand-Pump-Kit



Cover Included, Camco Antifreeze Hand Pump Kit- Pumps Antifreeze Directly Into the RV Waterlines and Supply Tanks, Makes Winterizing Simple and Easier ...

[stevescrook]

Wouldn't you also fill the fresh water tank with this method? It seems like one would need to plug the inlet side of the pump. Is this correct.
Thanks!

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by stevescrook

Wouldn't you also fill the fresh water tank with this method? It seems like one would need to plug the inlet side of the pump. Is this correct.
Thanks!

On my Scamp the pump has a check valve to prevent city water from back filling the tank. I noticed that my Scamp check valve failed (or never worked) one of the first times hooked to city water and added an inline check valve. It was easy and quicker than rebuilding a pump. I had noticed water running out of the over flow from the beginning but thought that I had over filled the tank,

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by stevescrook

Wouldn't you also fill the fresh water tank with this method? It seems like one would need to plug the inlet side of the pump. Is this correct.
Thanks!

If you are referring to use of a hand pump, it is attached to the city water inlet, so no antifreeze goes into the fresh water tank. The water heater has a bypass, so none goes into it either.

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

Originally Posted by barisad

I was told another reason to use antifreeze is that it keeps your seals lubricated. Especially the seal in the toilet.

If you're worried about the toilet seal (the only one critical) a tablespoon of A/F on top of blade is good.