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-   -   Trillium 1300 furnace removal... (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/trillium-1300-furnace-removal-33395.html)

David Swinnard 05-19-2008 07:30 PM

In this post https://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=20025, Patricia mentions it took 10 minutes to find all the screws holding in the furnace. Yesterday while poking about trying to find an access to the back side of the AC power inlet cover, I thought I'd just pop out the furnace. Ha Ha Ha. Removing the two screws I could easily find didn't even let me wiggle the furnace even a bit. Obviously I've either missed a number of screws, or it's jammed (rusted?) in place really, really well.

I'd love to hear from those of you who've actually removed one of these beasties (original equipment furnace) about the number of screws and any other useful bits of information that might help me here.

(I'd actually like to have access to the back of the power converter too - I like to see how things "tick" and since the trailer is new to me, I'd like to see what's lurking in all the dark places. Booker, I'll be watching your post regarding replacing our converter; thanks for the heads-up on that. OBTW, what part of the Island are you currently hailing from? Our current plan has us retiring to Parksville in 2-4 years.)

Thanks! Dave

Booker B. 05-19-2008 08:45 PM

I haven't touched the furnace yet - if it ain't broken etc...

I did pull out the converter part way to see what the depth / height was for the replacement unit. I will take some pictures when I drill out the rivets holding the converter backing box.

We are from Courtenay but we actually got our 76' in Parksville. The couple lived in this beautiful subdivision between Englishman River and Raft Trevor park on the ocean side. There are not too many places I would like to move on the Island other then where we live, but that would have to be one of them. Check it out next time you are there.

Booker

Daniel V. 05-19-2008 08:52 PM

Quote:

any other useful bits of information that might help me here.
I tried to remove my furnace as an experiment to check the duct work, but didn't succeed, so I'll be curious to hear how others have done it. Mine is the DuoTherm 65211-2 fan-less furnace.

Taking this furnace out requires being able to disconnect the chimney from either of the two ends (furnace side or outside hood) or somewhere in between, all of which are typically welded together with rust. The flue duct is attached to the rear of the furnace (with screws? can't remember), and then goes into another length of pipe which is connected to the hood on the outside. Then, inside the flue duct lies the air intake duct which is also rusted together. Dislodging both the inner and outer ducts probably involves a lot of slamming with a rubber mallet, but chances are you would have to replace some ducts once you take them apart (which makes sense anyway if you give yourself all that trouble). But these things are far easier to figure out if you already have access under the counter.

Like Booker said... it wasn't broken so I decided to leave it alone. Removing the fridge was much less trouble.

Daniel V. 05-19-2008 09:07 PM

Oops. Not that it matters that much here, but I got the exhaust and intake mixed up. Intake is the outer duct, and exhaust is the inner duct.

David Swinnard 05-19-2008 09:09 PM

Quote:

...Removing the fridge was much less trouble.
OK, I'll bite...actually, I thought about removing the fridge, but looking at the bits from the outside, then the inside made me change my mind. If you don't mind Daniel, would you describe the fridge removal process for me?

Is it a one-person job or will I need help to lift or carry it?

Dave

Daniel V. 05-19-2008 09:46 PM

Quote:

OK, I'll bite...actually, I thought about removing the fridge, but looking at the bits from the outside, then the inside made me change my mind. If you don't mind Daniel, would you describe the fridge removal process for me?

Is it a one-person job or will I need help to lift or carry it?
As with the furnace, removing the fridge isn't really something you do just for fun. If you do settle on a good reason to pull it out, though, you should probably use that opportunity to have it serviced and tested.

You should be able to locate the service manual for your fridge which explains how to remove it. In a nutshell, it involves disconnecting the propane line, 12V and 120V, removing the bolts that hold the fridge onto its base, and wiggling it out. Putting it back in is a bit trickier because you need to ensure a proper seal around the rear of the fridge so that heat and any exhaust gases are properly evacuated and do not end up inside the trailer. Problem is that whatever is sealing it before you pull it out may move with the fridge or fall apart during the process, so you should be prepared to do such things as removing access panels, using a rivet gun, etc. :)

I believe smaller fridges weigh about 50 lbs or so.

Ironhinge 11-28-2015 12:35 PM

I Know this is old but had gotten here looking for instructions... I had a similar problem on my 4500 with it being wedged in. The trick was removing the screws on the inside then drilling out the rivets on the outside vent plate and gently wiggling/prying the vent from the outside. The inside and outside vents/housings slide apart. When the vent is out the furnace itself can wiggle out on the inside. There are 2 bumps in the top that hold it in place until the tension is released by pulling the outside vent out...

Ironhinge 11-28-2015 12:37 PM

also this... ! https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...0-a-66776.html


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