Fiberglass RV

Fiberglass RV (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/)
-   Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/)
-   -   Small table (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/small-table-35827.html)

Don N 11-25-2008 10:27 PM

Had an idea that I wanted some feedback on. If we leave the table made up into a bed and would like to redo our front couch something like Doug did with his. My idea is to install a sunken support for the round table support as opposed to having one sitting up above the floor in front of the couch. Then when you are sitting at the front couch, you will have the use of a smaller removable table. It would have to be made in such a way that you can still have access to get out around it and not be interferring with anybody walking in the side door. If it is a sunken support, there is nothing to trip over when the table is taken down. Now I am presuming that the centre section of the floor is 3/4" plywood and I can cut out a hole in it and install the sunken support. Am I missing something here or will it work?

Thanks...

Doug Mager 11-26-2008 10:26 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I could be wrong, but I think you are right on the money with what our plan is. Yes its plywood underbelly. Be doubly sure that there is/are no obstructions under where you plan to dig to plant your base. We had thought of doing this too and planned to bury the base right in front of that l'il indentation in the glass wall that forms the base of the seat. PLEASE let us/me know how this works for you.
P.S. Be SURE to chalk underneath the flange of the sunken table support, I'm wonderin IF a dab of some sort of sealant from the underside of the trailer might not be a bad idea either????

Donna D. 11-26-2008 11:38 AM

Pictures, don't forget to take lots of pictures. Inquiring minds will want to know! :yep

james kent 11-26-2008 01:19 PM

Just a little added information for whatever it's worth. I added a center mounted small table in our Boler last year. Yes the floor in ours is 3/4 " plywood covered with fiberglass on both sides, so our construction is similar to yours. I cut the hole with a hole saw attached to an 18 volt cordless drill and put some butyl tape around the edge before screwing the floor flange into place.
After a summer of use I have added a support bracked to connect it to the front of the trailer to a piece under the front window. We did this because we found the table just too wobbly no matter how we tried to keep it tight on the riser piece. Later I want it to connect with a rail similar to the way the big table did, because we can then take it down and place it back on the bench and still have a gaucho type bunk if we need it.

james kent 11-26-2008 01:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Attachment 16949

Here's the table before we connected it to the piece under the window. I want to change it to make it more stable, so make sure you give us lots of pictures.

Scott S. 11-26-2008 04:00 PM

I would also use stainless steel washers, Nyloc nuts and Bolts. and also know exactly where your propane lines are. might not be a bad idea to re-glass the edges of the hole (cover the raw wood) before you mount the post hole. drilling holes in my egg always makes me think way too hard, sorry

Don N 11-26-2008 09:54 PM

Quote:

Attachment 16949

Here's the table before we connected it to the piece under the window. I want to change it to make it more stable, so make sure you give us lots of pictures.
James, I like your table but mine would be a lot smaller and will face opposite to yours. I want to leave the front couch in with no dinette. Will be sealed at the floor for sure.

james kent 11-26-2008 10:13 PM

We put a permanent bed at the other end. Check underneath. That,s where my water tank is located. Would be a beast if you accidentally put a screw through it. The table top will still fit in the bench and the piece of cushion is being used as a back rest so it too can still be placed to use use as a couch. Will look forward to your finished table.

Don N 11-27-2008 05:38 AM

Will definetly check underneath first. Fact, maybe measure and check underneath 12 - 15 times before we do the first cut :omy Hope to get out to the local RV place in the next week or so and see if he might have a used table and stand that will fit our application..

Doug Mager 11-27-2008 10:40 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Don???
What do you think of this plan of attack for sinking that base???

Invert the base at the location where you finally decide to place it, trace the outline of it with a pencil, remove the base leaving a circle on the floor. Find the middle of the circle and take a drill and drill a pilot hole through the floor (after checking to be sure there's nothing right under where you want to bore that hole). Then, go back under the trailer and drill the hole out (would a hole saw work any better than a jig saw??) from underneath. If you need to use a jig saw, doing that hole from underneath would probably give you more manuvering room than using the same saw from inside the trailer ......just my 2 cents (Canadian, eh?)

OOPSIE: I negleced to remind you that the scribed hole will be LARGER than the hole you actually bore from underneath, so you'd need to account for this difference in size when drilling up from underneath!!!

Raya 11-27-2008 01:58 PM

What is the composition of the floor right there? Is there a wooden core in that area? I know that underneath it's gelcoated fiberglass, and inside it's fiberglass. I would assume there would be a core for stiffness - probably wood - but I wouldn't imagine it would be more than 1/2" to 3/8" thick.

Not that this means you cannot sink the base there, but something to think about.

I think if I were going to sink it there, and assuming the fiberglass+core is about 1" thick (you need more depth for the base, right?), I would probably laminate a solid fiberglass block to the underside of the trailer to take up the excess depth. You could also go with a resin-coated exterior or marine plywood piece (cheaper and somewhat easier), but the fiberglass would never rot. You can also tap the fiberglass for a machine screw which might come in handy (I don't have all the particulars here, such as the depth and layout of the fasteners on your base socket).

I like the idea of a table socket there; you could then have many of the advantages of the forward dinette while keeping the sofa/bunks.

Raya

Don N 11-27-2008 09:34 PM

Raya, I like the idea of the glassed in piece of wood underneath to increase the floor thickness. I will have to find a sunken base and get some details on the size, etc. Even thought of possibly putting two small single tables there instead of one wider table. They should be a little more stable but then you have two sunken holes in the floor. Guess you could cap them when not in use. If we think about it long enough, I imagine we could come up with another idea to use these sunken holes for as well.

cyndi H 11-28-2008 12:14 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Had an idea that I wanted some feedback on. If we leave the table made up into a bed and would like to redo our front couch something like Doug did with his. My idea is to install a sunken support for the round table support as opposed to having one sitting up above the floor in front of the couch. Then when you are sitting at the front couch, you will have the use of a smaller removable table. It would have to be made in such a way that you can still have access to get out around it and not be interferring with anybody walking in the side door. If it is a sunken support, there is nothing to trip over when the table is taken down. Now I am presuming that the centre section of the floor is 3/4" plywood and I can cut out a hole in it and install the sunken support. Am I missing something here or will it work?

Thanks...
I went simple and just made a table the size of the middle sofa cushion support. I like versatility and did not want to lose the top bunk option. Now it can be a sofa, a bunk, or a dinette depending on the need at the time. It is small but still holds two place settings. it is not quite done though. i would still like to add the hardware to the table top so it swivels and glides into different positions. Some day...... I will see if i can add a picture, wish me luck. The drop leaf gets out of the way when needed as well.

Don N 11-28-2008 07:03 AM

Thats kinda the idea I have Cindy but my trailer does not have a cut out at the middle cushion. It is one piece straight across so my mount will be out in the middle of the traffic area more. Thats why sunken. You mentioned a drop leaf, never thought of that. Might be able to work that into this plan.

cyndi H 11-28-2008 09:58 AM

Quote:

Thats kinda the idea I have Cindy but my trailer does not have a cut out at the middle cushion. It is one piece straight across so my mount will be out in the middle of the traffic area more. Thats why sunken. You mentioned a drop leaf, never thought of that. Might be able to work that into this plan.
I really liked the aluminum drop leaf table addition i saw but i couldn't use it w/o removing the bunk. Boler mods are feats of engineering. I cant wait to see what you come up with.

April Wilcox 11-28-2008 10:46 AM

Quote:

I went simple and just made a table the size of the middle sofa cushion support. I like versatility and did not want to lose the top bunk option. Now it can be a sofa, a bunk, or a dinette depending on the need at the time. It is small but still holds two place settings. it is not quite done though. i would still like to add the hardware to the table top so it swivels and glides into different positions. Some day...... I will see if i can add a picture, wish me luck. The drop leaf gets out of the way when needed as well.
I love that mod, but it appears that you have a molded bench with the cut out already there. Did your trailer come that way, or did you make the cut out yourself?

Raya 11-28-2008 12:55 PM

Quote:

I love that mod, but it appears that you have a molded bench with the cut out already there. Did your trailer come that way, or did you make the cut out yourself?
I'm not Cyndi, but I have noticed that some (later) Bolers have this cutout in the frame and bench (for the Porta Potti to slide in and out of). It seems that earlier Bolers didn't have it, although I don't know when the switch was. Or perhaps it was an option or there was a long change-over.

I would like to see what the frame looks like on the trailers with the cutout there; my Boler has a substantial frame crossmember in that place (and no cutout).

R.

cyndi H 11-28-2008 03:31 PM

Quote:

I love that mod, but it appears that you have a molded bench with the cut out already there. Did your trailer come that way, or did you make the cut out yourself?
It was there already. i would like to see what a cut out one looks like as well. If it had to be cut it out it would look nice with nice matching cupboard doors for access to the storage, that would cover up the holes nicely too. I love the picture of your boler, what a fabulous spot to camp.

Donna D. 11-28-2008 04:52 PM

Here's a couple of topics where individuals who owned Scamps took the front couch out and made small dinettes. In both cases, the front couch area was a solid piece of fiberglass (ala couch). Maybe it will give you some ideas:

Couch to Two Person Dinette

9213 Front Dinette Finished
:wave

Raya 11-28-2008 06:08 PM

Donna,

I may be missing something here :shg but it doesn't look/read to me like either of those two had the solid (raised) floor there under the couch. I don't see any reference to frame mods, so it seems like they both already had the "niche" there with a door for the porta potti. That makes the floor under the center of the couch level with the main floor of the trailer in the center without modifying it.

Or..?



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:12 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.