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-   -   '78 Boler bearing repack specs? (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f72/78-boler-bearing-repack-specs-68812.html)

Fallon 04-05-2015 11:01 PM

'78 Boler bearing repack specs?
 
What is likely the make of the axle under the 13' '78 Boler we recently inherited? I need to repack the bearings & want to figure out the preload I need to set before putting it back together. The size of the of the castle nut would be handy too so i can make sure I have the right size socket before tearing things apart.

I managed to track down the manual for a '79 Boler, but it didn't say anything useful other than repack every 7,000 miles.

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FRED SMAILES 04-05-2015 11:39 PM

The nut is big! lol I use a cresent wrench.
tapered bearings are pretty universal in torque and very forgiving.
I have no idea on specs I rotate the wheel as I tighten the nut till I feel some drag then go to next fit on the castle.
I've had one failure in the 50 or so years and I think that was because I didn't get a race properly seated.
There will be lots of youtube on this topic as well as many here who have the proper numbers.
Fred

Ian G. 04-06-2015 05:24 AM

The spec is ZERO preload and ZERO backlash. Snug the nut up while rotating the hub to seat the bearings, then back the nut off about 1/4 turn then tighten the nut to remove any clearance in the thread, this should leave between .001" to .007" freepay.

The axle you have will be a Dexter #9

Fallon 04-06-2015 09:31 AM

Thanks. Wanting to make sure we don't run into issues. I'm pretty sure the suspension is mostly shot, so will need to be replaced if I decide to dig into rebuilding this thing (floor is getting soft in several places too). Wanting to make sure it survives a short trip or 2 this summer before then. I've pursued enough threads here to have a good idea on what I'm going to need & research further for that.

Carol H 04-06-2015 10:40 AM

What ever you do don't go cheap on replacing the bearings and seals. Lots of cheap deals on the internet but you may not be overly happy with the life of such deals. Best to pay the extra and replace with name brands such as Timken or SKF - even if they are now made in China or Mexico or elsewhere - they are made to more stringent quality control standards than many of the other lesser known made in China brands.

Fallon 04-06-2015 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carol H (Post 514262)
What ever you do don't go cheap on replacing the bearings and seals. Lots of cheap deals on the internet but you may not be overly happy with the life of such deals. Best to pay the extra and replace with name brands such as Timken or SKF - even if they are now made in China or Mexico or elsewhere - they are made to more stringent quality control standards than many of the other lesser known made in China brands.

I'm just repacking & inspecting them. No replacement of bearings or seals unless something is obviously wrong. Even if the seals aren't great I won't replace them, poor seals should last the 2 short trips we have planned this summer.

I'm 90% sure that the rubber in the torsion axle is shot & there is little if any suspension travel left. If I do end up rebuilding this trailer it will almost assuredly be getting a new axle. Last I checked Dexter had quality bearings & seals in their new axles.


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