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redbarron55 12-18-2016 03:21 PM

And often the wire will fail due to the flux, even the non corrosive resin.
When the solder wicks under the insulation it makes the wire brittle, which is the reason for the aircraft qualified crimps.
Nothing wrong with soldering, but I could not make an aircraft connection "mid air" anyway.
The skin effect of current traveling along the surface is more at high frequencies and definitely not DC.
I still think that using two conductor cable to put two colors in one vinyl cover keeps everything neat and a single run to each load takes care of the other.
I broke my lighting up ointo several runs so that one blown fuse would not put me in the dark.
The PD4045 I used had plenty of fused circuits and I brought each wire from the converter to a terminal strip numbered in the same order as the fuses on the front panel
Here is a picture before I neatened up the wiring. The grounds go the the buss bars on the "new " steel wheel wells.

gordon2 12-19-2016 09:07 AM


Originally Posted by Mike_L (Post 620277)
......When solder fuses to the wire moisture infiltration is prevented as there is no space for moisture infiltration. ...

So does a proper crimp connection (see "gas tight on page six)" but since most people dont get that quality connection in practice, shrink wrap, self-fusing tape can help. And soldering is an option as long as you don't stress the joint mechanically (in fact, always support wiring near connectors). Just don't solder a crimp connector in place of crimping. Like I said, this is an oft discussed topic and it will not be settled for everyone in all cases here.

padlin00 12-19-2016 09:36 AM

When I try and solder 2 or more heavier gauge wires I end up with the plastic shielding melting, am I doing something wrong? Due to this I end up with crimps.

Mike_L 12-19-2016 11:45 AM

Bob & Deb, remove the insulation where you intend to solder, usually a half to an inch for smaller wires. Make sure the wire is clean. That means free of grease, oil and corrosion. If the wire is dull it may have corrosion. Scuff it with sandpaper if it isn't shiny otherwise the solder won't stick. Apply a little solder flux to the area to be soldered and then twist the wires together. I use a soldering gun for smaller wires. Hold the tip under the twisted wires and heat until the flux melts. Touch the end of the solder to the tip until a small drop of liquid solder forms. If your wire is clean the solder will wick into the wires and seal them. Allow to cool and the joint is good. Apply electrical tape, heat shrink etc. For larger wires follow the same process but use a propane torch with a small flame. Place a wet rag over the insulation on each wire to absorb the excess heat and keep it from melting. Apply heat slowly to prevent overheating and fill the joint with solder. The solder will wick into the joint. The wet rags will keep the wires cool so the insulation doesn't melt and the solder doesn't wick too far up the wires. Cheers!

padlin00 12-19-2016 01:00 PM


Originally Posted by Mike_L (Post 620371)
Place a wet rag over the insulation on each wire to absorb the excess heat and keep it from melting.

Thanks, I'll give this a shot next try.

stevebaz 12-19-2016 01:08 PM

After you twist and solder the connection use adhesive lined shrink tubing to seal the connection. This is one of the few good products that harbor freight carries at a reasonable price. Don't mix it up with their inferior non adhesive lined product.

42 Piece Marine Heat Shrink Tubing

I use this over crimp connectors too.

John in Santa Cruz 12-19-2016 02:35 PM

for boat trailer connections, I've soldered (using a needle point butane torch for heavier gauge wires that my iron couldnt' cope with), then slobbered 'liquid electrical tape' all over and heat-shrink tubing over that.

gordon2 12-19-2016 03:22 PM


Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz (Post 620392)
... then slobbered 'liquid electrical tape' all over and heat-shrink tubing over that.

I love liquid electrical tape and use it all the time. As long as you can reach every nook and cranny to get 100% coverage, its great. And using heat-shrink over it in case you don't have 100% coverage with the liquid is my prefered method as well.

rdcastle 12-19-2016 07:08 PM

redbarron55 has the right idea. Its one thing to make everything work but quite another to make them easy to repair/replace.

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