Fiberglass RV

Fiberglass RV (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/)
-   Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/)
-   -   2013 Parkliner PowerVent Roof Leak (https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f55/2013-parkliner-powervent-roof-leak-84451.html)

hp in va 03-28-2018 04:35 PM

2013 Parkliner PowerVent Roof Leak
 
Hi,
I recently bought a used Parkliner 15 that has sprung a roof leak at the front right corner of the power vent. I have not been able to stop the leak to date. Last attempt involved putting weatherproof tape around the entire perimeter of the housing/roof joint. As both front corners of the Fantastic Vent plastic housing are cracked, I want to replace the entire vent assembly. The original is pop riveted to the roof. I do not want to use pop rivets. Any suggestions?

David B. 03-28-2018 10:33 PM

Hi, I am not familiar with the roof of the Parkliner, but if the fantastic fan housing was broken, either the roof has been flexing, or the previous owner hit it on a branch. Our Scamp used a wooden spacer between the roof and the fan. This spacer was shapped to to match the compound curves of the Scamp roof. The spacer had butyl tape between it and the roof, and was secured by screws from the inside into the wood of the spacer. The fan was then screwed to the wooden spacer with butyl tape sandwiched between. This spacer would stiffen the thin fiberglass roof and not flex the fanís framing. Hope this can be used for your application.
Dave & Paula

hp in va 03-29-2018 07:55 AM

Dave & Paula,
Thanks for your reply. My Parkliner actually has a wood spacer/trim on the inside of the opening. I had considered securely attaching this to the fiberglass roof, then using screws on the outside down into this wood. I was concerned of the possibility of the screws working loose over time. Have your screws into the wood stayed tight?
Harry

George Lauver 03-29-2018 09:19 AM

Harry - I experienced a similar problem in our 2014 PL shortly after our purchase 2 years ago; however ours only had one cracked corner and the caulking was so loose I pulled it off with my fingers. I just cleaned it up and used the 4" Dicor sealing tape on all four sides. Quick, easy and no leaks!

Tom 72 03-29-2018 09:48 AM

I am curious why you think pop rivets are not well suited here? Although, I am not insisting that they are.

George Lauver 03-29-2018 10:15 AM

More to my concern what caused the corners of the housing to snap off?

George Lauver 03-29-2018 10:24 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 117182

mary and bob 03-29-2018 10:39 AM

George; maybe too much pressure by the pop rivets. With a screw you can control how much pressure to put on an area, but the pop rivet takes a set amount of tension to set it, and may be too much for the vent's flange. With caulk or butyl tape under the vent flange it will allow for some compression distortion of the area.

Tom 72 03-29-2018 12:10 PM

Good answer.

George Lauver 03-29-2018 01:08 PM

My exact thoughts..

AmcGee 06-09-2018 02:17 PM

If you plan on replacing the fan , there would be no issues with using screw, what is the MFG date of your Parkliner and I can most likely tell you what sealant is used on your Parkliner

hp in va 07-15-2018 12:45 PM

What I did
 
Here is what I did to fix the leaking roof power vent on my 2013 Parkliner. I purchased the same model power vent as came on the trailer to ensure the holes would be the same spacing. I also got the CAMCO Universal vent install kit for metal/fiberglass #25003 1"x 8ft gray tape and ProFlex RV flexible sealant (Geocel) for fiberglass. Drilling out the pop rivets mounting the OEM assembly, I found that not only was the mounting flange was cracked at all four corners, but there were also gaps in the original factory sealant. It was very hard and time consuming to remove all of OEM sealant.
I had decided to use the square decorative wood trim around the interior perimeter of the vent assembly to hold the new assembly to the roof. From the outside, I installed two short exterior torx flathead screws just to hold the wood in place against the roof. Placing the new vent on the now reinforced roof hole, I found that the roof was warped enough that on one side some holes did not exactly line up. Probably the reason for the cracked flange. I decided against making new holes in the roof and work with the original ones. One layer of the gray tape sealant was applied only to the exterior mounting surfaces. The new vent was positioned with the holes aligned, then long exterior torx flathead screws were used to attach the vent assembly to the roof by screwing them down into the wood decorative square. I used a cordless power drill, using the same torque setting so the vent was attached with even pressure (no warping) Lastly, I sealed the torx screw heads and flange to roof seams with the ProFlex. I was able to do most of the work through the emergency exit hatch, but did need a ladder to access the rear for some work there.
The Parkliner has since been on 1800 miles of road trips and been through several heavy rains (static and while driving storms). The interior remains dry to date. While checking for leaks, I did notice that the previously leaking side was in a low spot on the roof, compounding the problem.

DJO 07-27-2018 09:32 PM

Our 2013 had two corners of the fan broken allowing water to leak in. We cleaned the outside of the fan up and liberally applied self leveling caulking all around. So far one year and no leaks.

DustyMiller 04-14-2019 11:20 AM

AmcGee
We recently bought a 15" late 2012 Parkliner. I have discovered leakage on each side of the table benches. With todays rain, I have discovered it seems to be flowing through the bubble wrap material under the wall covering. I am wondering what kind of sealant Parkliner used to seal around the metal band on the exterior of the trailer. I suspect it may be leaking from there. Thank you.

Sid 04-14-2019 02:34 PM

Dusty,
If the band you are referring to is the band that joins the upper and lower shells together then I would be surprised if that were the source of the leaking. To my knowledge these halves overlap four inches and the band is more decorative than functional.
Check the weep holes in the window frame for debris stopping the flow of water to the outside.
Sid

DustyMiller 04-15-2019 12:09 PM

leak behind wall covering
 
Sid
Thank you for the response. I have taken your suggestion and cleaned all the windows. None were plugged up or even that dirty. What is really puzzling is that the leak occurs on both sides of the trailer below the windows. I have checked the roof for cracks and there are none. The windows are tight, and clean. I am wondering if condensation could generate as much water as is there. It drips along the edge of the bubble wrap material. It is quite a mystery.
Thanks

Sid 04-15-2019 04:07 PM

Dusty,
We bought new and have had it in some pretty severe downpours. No issues.
I am curious about the metal belly band as I was not aware that was ever offered. Is it possible the previous owner did some special modifications or repairs? Perhaps other owners could weigh in as my knowledge of the Parkliner does not extend past 2014.
Sid

DustyMiller 04-17-2019 06:03 AM

Leak behind wall covering
 
Sid
Thanks for your response. I will check with the previous owner. Upon close examination of the two windows my wife has spotted a split in the window caulking on the side corner of each of the two windows over the bench. It could be as the water runs down the side of the window and could wick into the wall covering. It seems to get trapped in the bubble wrap material between the foil.
I don't know too much about the band, but will recaulk the entire band and the windows. Hopefully that will help. I'll let you know.
I'm new to the forum and not sure if I am getting to a wider audience. I sure appreciate your response.

DustyMiller 04-18-2019 12:11 PM

Sid
I think I unsubscribed to this thread, thinking I was logging onto it. I did get a chance to read your response. I doubt that the belly band was a modification by the previous owner. He brought it virtually brand new.
What I have done is to recaulk all windows and the band. We have rain coming tomorrow, so I'll have a chance to see it that takes care of the problem.
I am hoping that by responding here, it puts me back in the thread. I'm a bit confused how this all works.
Thanks

iamjiwjr 04-18-2019 02:29 PM

Aaron McGhee worked on Parkliners at the factory from day 1 until the end. He works at Colfax Camping World in NC. He has posted in this forum that he is available for consultation if us Parkliner owners need him. I would suggest writing him.

His post: "So as the o.p. stated the Liberty outdoors NC plant that produces the Parkliner has been close. There were a couple of remaining orders that were filled but the plant is closed. It may be true that the Parkliner will be produced in the future but at the moment all tooling and machines are in storage. So, if there are any Parkliner owner that need work done to there campers let me know. Also, I am able to answer questions, I may no longer work for Liberty Outdoors, but I have always stood behind the Parkliner, from the beginning to the end twice. Yes, I started building Parkliners with Chandler in the original location, and finished up in Liberty NC about 2 months ago. I am now working at Camping World of Colfax but I can be reached by PM. I am here to do what I can for Parkliner owners. Most likely if you bought a Parkliner and picked it up from the factory in Gibsonville, Burlington,or Liberty you may have talked to me person."

His userid in this forum is AmcGee. He's a good guy.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:10 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.