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rck54789 03-08-2019 05:04 PM

Mouse entry W/O permission
 
We have a 2005 Bigfoot 21 ft trailer and love it. We cover it each winter(we are in British Columbia) to protect the finish. I was in the trailer checking it this past week and found about 1 cup full of seeds in the compartment under the fridge. We never leave anything edible in the trailer over the winter so as to not attract any rodents. I have been on top, under, frt, back, left and right and have not found any opening for the pest to get in. By the amount of seeds he stored he had free access to the inside when ever he/she wanted.
The Bigfoot is a set of closed bathtubs on top of each other so there is only a few spots for access, and they are all plugged. My mind has been going over the trailer time and again and the only spot I can think is the outside grille for the fridge. Is it possible for there to be a small hole behind the evaporator. I suspected that he climbed up the cover and crawled in.
Other than that point I am at a total loss as to where the little pest is getting in.
Have anybody else had this issue and how did you solve the problem.
TYIA
Rick

Steve Carlson 03-08-2019 05:34 PM

There still is couple of feet of snow on my camper so I haven't looked inside yet... but I know my camper has a vent through the floor for the battery compartment that is big enough for small critters to get in. I stuffed a rag in the hole last fall, so we'll see.

thrifty bill 03-08-2019 06:52 PM

Google mouse holes. They can pass through incredibly small openings, incredible really. Mice problems with campers is pretty common and they can cause damage.

+10 to below, I keep bait stations under my campers (outside) as well as under my Miata. Mice love car wiring too.

Jon in AZ 03-08-2019 07:05 PM

Mouse entry W/O permission
 
Bait stations outside the camper. Crumpled aluminum foil in small gaps. Dryer sheets inside small, vulnerable spaces. Remove all food and nesting material. Frequent inspections. Last resort, traps.

k corbin 03-08-2019 09:21 PM

put some really bright lights on inside of the trailer being sure to do that inside of cabinets and closets. Next crawl under the trailer and hopefully you will see the light and know where you need to stuff in some stainless steel pot scrubber material. You can squirt a small amount of spray foam into that pot scrubber after it is in place and that will glue it into place as well as prevent drafts. This method of gap filling is removable if you ever need to make a repair to the trailer.


You can get stainless steel pot scrubbers in the grocery stores and in the hardware stores. Because it is stainless you won't have a rust issue.

kayaker51 03-09-2019 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k corbin (Post 735328)
put some really bright lights on inside of the trailer being sure to do that inside of cabinets and closets. Next crawl under the trailer and hopefully you will see the light and know where you need to stuff in some stainless steel pot scrubber material. You can squirt a small amount of spray foam into that pot scrubber after it is in place and that will glue it into place as well as prevent drafts. This method of gap filling is removable if you ever need to make a repair to the trailer.


You can get stainless steel pot scrubbers in the grocery stores and in the hardware stores. Because it is stainless you won't have a rust issue.

I cut a bar of Irish spring soap and spread it around. i also have put a 5 gal. bucket with antifreeze in it. Set up a ramp to the bucket top, have a diving board when the mouse goes for the dog food it tips the board. I super glue the dog food on the end to make sure it stays all winter. 1 dozen so far.In the bottom RIP.

Casita Greg 03-09-2019 11:21 AM

Do you keep your trailer plugged in to shore power? If so, do you have one of those power cord hatches with the little sliding door which opens when the cord is in use? That would definitely be one thing I would check for as a point of entry, if you have one of those access covers with the cord slot. Critters and ants use the shore power cord as a boarding ramp and often enter through that cord hole.

stude 03-09-2019 08:00 PM

Mouse found a home!
 
Every MH or trailer or camper should be checked regularly as mice can get into any hole down to about 3/16" maybe less. So they probably came in through the Fridge Vent and found a dry, warm spot there for the winter.
Stude

k corbin 03-09-2019 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kayaker51 (Post 735365)
I cut a bar of Irish spring soap and spread it around. i also have put a 5 gal. bucket with antifreeze in it. Set up a ramp to the bucket top, have a diving board when the mouse goes for the dog food it tips the board. I super glue the dog food on the end to make sure it stays all winter. 1 dozen so far.In the bottom RIP.

Not only will Irish Spring soap keep the mice out it would keep me out of my trailer as well. I can't stand that soap, it smells very strong and not in a good way.

kayaker51 03-09-2019 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by k corbin (Post 735460)
Not only will Irish Spring soap keep the mice out it would keep me out of my trailer as well. I can't stand that soap, it smells very strong and not in a good way.

So it works, buy Ivory

Russ Foster 03-13-2019 10:26 AM

Bounce dryer sheets placed throughout interior and exterior cabinets. Never ( knock on wood) a problem. Scent is mild

Tacoman7 03-16-2019 10:56 AM

I had a mouse problem in my Bigfoot, only 2 entry points that made sense, propane line grommet was a bit loose or they got in while storage compartment door was left open while storing gear and I brought them home with me.

Doctor Harold 03-16-2019 11:02 AM

Stainless steel will rust, albeit slowly. Stainless is a marketing word. Back in the 1930s it was called "rust resistant steel".

Casita Greg 03-16-2019 11:09 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I did away with the small factory installed shore power hatch that had the little slider for allowing the shore power cord to protrude when deployed. I installed a Marine style twist-Lock removable end on my cord, and now just plug it in and unplug it to leave. No more "mouse door." I also installed a larger hatch in place of that small useless one which you couldn't do anything with, except fight with your power cord all the time. I have a lot more access for additional storage now that was just wasted space behind the converter before because you couldn't get to it.

Grady C 03-16-2019 01:18 PM

Please don’t use Irish Spring soap as your rat protection for your trailer. Does not work!! You to youtube , look it up under Irish Spring soap for mice. Video proof on not one not two but several videos showing does not work. One video shows the mice eating the Irisg Spring.

slowpat 03-16-2019 02:54 PM

The neighborhood free range kitties seem to have things under control. I had a shop cat for a while who really earned his keep.

In the past, I've put a sheet of aluminum foil to block the refrigerator vents. That was after the shop cat died. I also stuffed steel wool in the power cord hole. It does rust though.

Knock on wood, no rodent problem so far.

David Marowski 03-16-2019 03:02 PM

Mice !!!!!!!!!!
 
" Cuddle " dryer sheets have worked for us for decades ( over 40 years ) ( the kind you can smell ). Our daughter tried scent free dryer sheets, they DO NOT work at keeping mice away.

Kai in Seattle 03-16-2019 04:09 PM

Steel wool, install a cat, and what if the mouse had gotten permission first--would that have made you a more welcoming landlord? Maybe you need to figure out a way to raise the rent so it's less attractive. (so many suggestions above!)


Frequent ins and outs (like constantly needing something from or put into the trailer) helps, but we don't have a winter-long snow pack, either. Seems your mice don't even expect supplies laid in...they're happy to bring their own. True campers at heart.


So far we've been lucky...crossing all my toes and fingers and hoping for the best outcome for you!


Kathleen

Kai

"K"

Daniel A. 03-16-2019 04:44 PM

Soak a sponge with bleach and put it under where you think they are getting in mice hate bleach.

Bruce_Calgary 03-17-2019 06:07 PM

Mouse
 
stuffing cracks with steel wool also works; kept them out of our house trailer back in the day. Of course, backup is mousetrap in the trailer ;-)

Jeffrey F. 03-18-2019 01:09 AM

Whatever you do, DO NOT put bait traps inside the RV. Friend of mine did this and spent half the summer tearing the walls apart. Took about 6 months for the smell to go away. :bh Use traps, not sticky, those are just cruel, Reese's Pieces or bacon, Canadian I think works best. Bleach to get rid of the pee smell.

Also there is no such thing as "a singular mouse", they travel in packs, like a little motorcycle gang. :eek: Once they get inside others will follow the scent and get in. I used pest block expanding foam, available just about everywhere.
Good luck....
Jeff

k corbin 03-20-2019 06:04 AM

Never use the kind of steel wool that rust. Instead you should use stainless steel pot scrubbers. Those will last through the years and also fill up the cracks.

Paul O. 03-20-2019 08:10 AM

Of course you cannot prove a negative, but I have not had a critter problem since I started placing cloth bags with moth balls (the stinky, original kind) in the outside storage of the Scamp and the engine compartment of my truck and car. They do evaporate over time, so a few need to be added every 6 months to a year.

gordon2 03-20-2019 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul O. (Post 736460)
Of course you cannot prove a negative, but I have not had a critter problem since I started ....

I too have not had any problem with mice or other critters.. and I do nothing other than remove food when not in use for extended periods of time. I will say that the trailer is buttoned up pretty tight... no holes to speak of, not even mouse-sized.

Paul O. 03-20-2019 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gordon2 (Post 736461)
I too have not had any problem with mice or other critters.. and I do nothing other than remove food when not in use for extended periods of time. I will say that the trailer is buttoned up pretty tight... no holes to speak of, not even mouse-sized.

Glad you brought up the idea of not leaving any critter food around. Even a whiff of it will attract them. Years ago I found that storing grass seed in a tight metal container was the answer to the mouse problem in our garage.

Steve Carlson 03-20-2019 11:38 AM

Yeah, a few years back I had to switch from a Rubbermaid tote to a galvanized metal can to store my bird seed. They chewed right through the handle of the tote and got in somehow.

AC0GV 11-16-2019 12:03 AM

Irish spring
 
[QUOTE=Grady C;736084]Please donít use Irish Spring soap as your rat protection for your trailer. Does not work!! You to youtube , look it up under Irish Spring soap for mice.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhQjxTwQdpk

Glenn Baglo 11-16-2019 12:58 AM

[QUOTE=AC0GV;760795]
Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady C (Post 736084)
Please donít use Irish Spring soap as your rat protection for your trailer. Does not work!! You to youtube , look it up under Irish Spring soap for mice.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhQjxTwQdpk


Ya, but what if you wrap the soap in dryer sheets? :D

k corbin 11-16-2019 03:30 AM

I can hardly stand to walk into the detergent aisle at the stores.


But you know how it is, I get hungry so despite the strong smell I still go into the store to get food.

Rick L. Harrison 11-30-2019 01:33 PM

Have had the rodent run around in engine compartment. some wiring insulation is made with soy? "ring the dinner bell"
YouTube and you will find that rodents hate peppermint. 40 drops of peppermint oil in a 16oz spray bottle of water, spray where they have been it will last a couple of months.

Iowa Dave 12-01-2019 10:35 AM

If you donít want to put bait on a mousetrap inside your garage, consider the fact that mice are probably accessing your garage mostly at the corners of the overhead door(s). I have a couple old three hole building bricks with a heavy string Tied off on them set outside of the door. The other end is tied off to a small hole drilled through the corner of the trap. Channel the access to the garage with the brick, guiding access with the trap. When you catch the mouse the string and brick prevents cats or other roaming varmints from dragging your rig away
Iowa Dave

Shangie 12-03-2019 10:47 PM

We stuffed every hole with stainless steel scrubbers and cooper mesh along with pest block foam. We then leave cotton balls doused in peppermint oil inside several open plastic sandwich bags strewn about the RV, especially where there are access points including the drivers and passengers side air vents. We then throw mothballs underneath the exterior. This ended a one time intrusion problem we experienced when we moved our RV from a concrete storage facility to a field.

MJo 04-06-2021 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casita Greg (Post 736064)
I did away with the small factory installed shore power hatch that had the little slider for allowing the shore power cord to protrude when deployed. I installed a Marine style twist-Lock removable end on my cord, and now just plug it in and unplug it to leave. No more "mouse door." I also installed a larger hatch in place of that small useless one which you couldn't do anything with, except fight with your power cord all the time. I have a lot more access for additional storage now that was just wasted space behind the converter before because you couldn't get to it.

that looks great, can you be more specific and show what you did and how you did it? also, where did you find the parts you used? thanks in advance for the info. I have mice, Iím trying the victor M751K repellent and also the M914 diposable mouse bait, but I would prefer keeping them out. thanks. MJo

Casita Greg 04-06-2021 06:57 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I copied this from the Casita Forum, where I posted it several years ago. It was the original write up of my "mod" back when I installed it.

September 28, 2016
Shortly after I purchased my trailer years ago, I also soon tired of fighting with the shore power cord in that tiny locker door. Since I used to do a lot of work on boats, I couldn't understand why the RV industry had to make life difficult, and not also adopt the power hook-ups which have been successfully used on boats for many years. It works well, even in a harsh salt-water marine environment, so I saw no reason not to adapt it to my trailer. I "cut the cord" [no pun intended] and installed a Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet in the side of the trailer and installed a marine twist-lock female fitting onto the cut end of the remaining length of the cord to plug it into the new outlet. Now I just unplug it and roll it up. I never have to fight with it getting stuck on anything inside the trailer.



Several years later I decided to further upgrade my incoming power supply by protecting it with a Progressive Industries surge protector. I didn't want to use a portable one that plugs into the power pedestal before the shore power cord due to the fact that portable ones tend to grow legs when you're not around. Mine is safely embedded within a locked compartment where I hard wired it into the line before the converter. I also installed a larger access door in place of the tiny electrical locker door, so now I not only don't have to worry about insect/rodent intrusion through the cut-out on the old hatch since it seals up tight, but I also have a little more storage room now as well.

https://amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco...UYZQC?dchild=1

https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...n-ze102-a.html

https://www.bestconverter.com/EMS-HW...lay_p_511.html

thrifty bill 04-06-2021 08:54 AM

Like any specialized RV part, you can either spend time and money visiting every RV store in your area and you “might” find it, or you can buy it on Amazon and have it tomorrow.

I stopped wasting my time chasing down parts locally. As far as supporting “ local” businesses, the choices here are Walmart or Camping World. Myself, buying from Amazon is the winner.

MJo 04-06-2021 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casita Greg (Post 810241)
I copied this from the Casita Forum, where I posted it several years ago. It was the original write up of my "mod" back when I installed it.

September 28, 2016
Shortly after I purchased my trailer years ago, I also soon tired of fighting with the shore power cord in that tiny locker door. Since I used to do a lot of work on boats, I couldn't understand why the RV industry had to make life difficult, and not also adopt the power hook-ups which have been successfully used on boats for many years. It works well, even in a harsh salt-water marine environment, so I saw no reason not to adapt it to my trailer. I "cut the cord" [no pun intended] and installed a Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet in the side of the trailer and installed a marine twist-lock female fitting onto the cut end of the remaining length of the cord to plug it into the new outlet. Now I just unplug it and roll it up. I never have to fight with it getting stuck on anything inside the trailer.



Several years later I decided to further upgrade my incoming power supply by protecting it with a Progressive Industries surge protector. I didn't want to use a portable one that plugs into the power pedestal before the shore power cord due to the fact that portable ones tend to grow legs when you're not around. Mine is safely embedded within a locked compartment where I hard wired it into the line before the converter. I also installed a larger access door in place of the tiny electrical locker door, so now I not only don't have to worry about insect/rodent intrusion through the cut-out on the old hatch since it seals up tight, but I also have a little more storage room now as well.

https://amazon.com/ParkPower-Marinco...UYZQC?dchild=1

https://www.camperid.com/jr-products...n-ze102-a.html

https://www.bestconverter.com/EMS-HW...lay_p_511.html

I looked on the Marinco website and couldnt find the outlet Marinco 30 Amp shore power outlet you described, since Iím not an electrician so I donít want to improvise, could you tell me part no.s of the outlet? thanks, MJo

rdickens 04-06-2021 10:21 AM

https://capitaloneshopping.com/p/mar...cha/M9ZCMQKZJM

or

https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar...UYZQC?dchild=1

Regards,

Ray

AC0GV 04-06-2021 10:29 AM

The mouse house
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by rck54789 (Post 735311)
Other than that point I am at a total loss as to where the little pest is getting in.
Have anybody else had this issue and how did you solve the problem.
TYIA
Rick

I thought that I posted in this last year but can not find it so here we go.
The marine connecter is great, I also saved the mouse hole for ham radio coax but plug it with a scotch brite pad. search Furrion FCKIT 30-PS Kit

South Coast Stu 04-06-2021 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casita Greg (Post 735368)
Do you keep your trailer plugged in to shore power? If so, do you have one of those power cord hatches with the little sliding door which opens when the cord is in use? That would definitely be one thing I would check for as a point of entry, if you have one of those access covers with the cord slot. Critters and ants use the shore power cord as a boarding ramp and often enter through that cord hole.

I think that's how I got infested last fall. I used tinfoil to seal it. I trapped 5 out of the trailer that night :eek:

South Coast Stu 04-06-2021 08:12 PM

I've also had issues with rodents moving into my truck when parked in the woods for several days. I got these and so far so good:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....AC_SL1000_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Loraffe-Repel...PMAK95VDENSBSP

MJo 04-07-2021 05:47 AM

mouse
 
I have mice in a couple of areas accessible from the power cord outlet. They got into the "silverware drawer" and a lower cabinet. I put 3 Fuller steel wool pads around the cord and put a "Tin Cat" with peanut butter in it inside the area where the cord enters the Scamp. I sent for 2 "Victor M914 Fast Kill disposable mouse baits" and a "Victor M751K Pestchaser Rodent repellant with nightlight" which arrives today. It remains to be seen if all of this firepower works. I'll report later.

Casita Greg 04-07-2021 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJo (Post 810329)
I have mice in a couple of areas accessible from the power cord outlet. They got into the "silverware drawer" and a lower cabinet. I put 3 Fuller steel wool pads around the cord and put a "Tin Cat" with peanut butter in it inside the area where the cord enters the Scamp. I sent for 2 "Victor M914 Fast Kill disposable mouse baits" and a "Victor M751K Pestchaser Rodent repellant with nightlight" which arrives today. It remains to be seen if all of this firepower works. I'll report later.

I'm not sure what it is you couldn't find with the link I posted above. The first one, linked to Amazon, has the entire kit to install a shore power inlet to your trailer, including a new female end for the remaining portion of the shore power cord. It's everything you need in one box.

I would also offer up a caution regarding the use of poison bait, and especially any baits inside the trailer. When they die, they will undoubtedly be in the most inaccessible areas and will stink for a long time. Don't count on them dying right next to the bait. They'll eat it, and then crawl off to die somewhere else.

Raz 04-07-2021 06:12 AM

Mice are a constant problem. I find nests all the time. Check under the hood of your vehicles. The air filter box and in the hood insulation are likely locations. Check the cabin air filter as well and try to remember to close the air recirculate door before shutting off the vehicle. If they chew through the filter and the door is open, they are in. Once in, snap traps baited with peanut butter work well but you have to find the entry point. And they love to chew wires especially the ones with soy based insulation that Honda and Subaru used.

MJo 04-07-2021 06:13 AM

mouse
 
thank you for replying. I tried to go to the sites you mentioned for the replacement power cord door and outlet replacement but couldn't find what I thought you had, lots of "inlets" but few "outlets" I would prefer using an "outlet so I could plug my house extension cords in and I would modify the Scamp cord by attaching a male plug to the cut end. The Victor baits are self-contained, boxes with bait in them that can feed up to several mice and can be thrown into the trash.

Casita Greg 04-07-2021 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJo (Post 810332)
thank you for replying. I tried to go to the sites you mentioned for the replacement power cord door and outlet replacement but couldn't find what I thought you had, lots of "inlets" but few "outlets" I would prefer using an "outlet so I could plug my house extension cords in and I would modify the Scamp cord by attaching a male plug to the cut end. The Victor baits are self-contained, boxes with bait in them that can feed up to several mice and can be thrown into the trash.

NEVER install any open (male) terminal ends to the end of the cord you plug into the trailer! All trailer inlet plugs are already male, and for good reason. If you have a female end on the cord to attach to the male receptacle of the trailer, you won't have any energized and potentially deadly electrocution hazard. Besides from being illegal, it is extremely dangerous. It sounds like you could use some professional help with your wiring, as it appears that you don't know much about electricity, and this could prove to be a project that may be "out of your pay grade" so to speak. If that cord was plugged into the supply outlet and someone touched those male plug terminals, you could kill them. I won't make light of the dangerousness of doing something like that.

Are you trying to find an outlet like the ones in the walls in your house? (i.e. 15 Amp receptacle to just plug in a normal extension cord?) If so, the 30 Amp plug is pretty much a standard in the RV world, although you can still usually find a standard outlet installed next to the 30 Amp RV plug-in. In any case, if you install a 30 Amp twist-lock, you can always use an adapter to go from your "home outlet" to the 30 Amp RV outlet.

After looking around, I think that this may be what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5S4UQCW4&psc=1

MJo 04-07-2021 06:52 AM

Thank you for your explanation with Warning. Since I'm a newcomer to the RV world I needed the information you provided. You show plugs made by other manufacturers, ex. Camco. Will they fit into the twist lock mechanism on the RV side? (I assume so since you show them.). Unless I feel confident in making the alteration, I'll just fight the mice but the formation is very welcome.

MJo 04-07-2021 07:08 AM

I should have looked at my outside extension cord I've used to supply shore power all winter, it has the configuration you describe. Oh! I fluctuate from feeling this RV thing is doable, to feeling like I am not quite up to it. I'm 'on my own' my sons are 3 states away. Thanks again for taking the time to explain and Caution. MJo

thrifty bill 04-07-2021 08:29 AM

And unless you are comfortable with wiring, I'd hire an electrician to install. What can appear to be simple to one person could be very intimidating for someone else.

Alex Adams 04-07-2021 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJo (Post 810332)
I would prefer using an "outlet so I could plug my house extension cords in

You can still use the Marinco shore power connection. They sell 30 amp twist-lock to male 3 plug adapters.


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