Frame strengthening - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-19-2020, 12:19 PM   #1
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Name: Lloyd
Trailer: Trllium
Ontario
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Frame strengthening

Hi its me again , looking for opinions on possibly strengthening the frame on our 1976 Trillium 1300 , while the body is off and we are installing a Flexiride axle .
The frame looks solid but can anyone tell me were the weak points are on these frames ? Any input is greatly appreciated. Lloyd
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Old 12-19-2020, 02:34 PM   #2
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Might be worth checking out.
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Old 12-19-2020, 10:23 PM   #3
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Name: bill
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Everywhere it is bent. Near the front the frame bends inward and then upward. Four spots total, two per side. You can see the frame tubing is collapsed at both of these bends. In addition, IF the front body mounting bolts are drilled through the frame, that makes a third spot pretty much in the same area. There was a recall on Trillium frames back in the day, later models like my 1977 had the front bolts attach to angle iron clips on the side of the frame. I am thinking 1976 was prior to recall.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:07 AM   #4
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Name: Elliott
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Generally speaking, the transition from the square portion to the front "A" seems to be the weakest point on older molded fiberglass trailers, but sometimes also the front of the square part (like around and in front of the door).
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Old 12-27-2020, 01:25 AM   #5
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The frame on our '77 cracked on each side where the front of the cabin bolts to the frame.
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Old 01-15-2021, 08:57 AM   #6
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Name: James
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Morriston
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I trussed my frame when I extended it out the front 36 inches - There is no flex in the frame now.
Trussed by adding a 2in. strap set off by 2' long 1 1/4 tube spacers
I also put a doublers in the bends at the front.
You an see the trussing in this image https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...cture13496.jpg
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Old 01-15-2021, 10:06 AM   #7
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Not sure about the 1300, but the 4500 has another weak point: At the point where the axle is attached to the frame rail, the frame rail is "split" into two pieces of rectangular tubing that are overlapped and welded together. To overcome this weakness, when my axle was replaced a large plate was welded to the overlapping tubing joint and then the axle was bolted to that plate. So now I have a bolt on axle.

My 4500 also came to me with "fish plates" reinforcing the bends in the tongue portion of the rails. Also came to me with angle iron tabs and cross members to which 8 body bolts are attached.
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Old 03-17-2021, 07:22 PM   #8
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My frame was in pretty decent shape prior to refinishing her but I wanted to future proof her from possible damage...

I adhered 1/4" steel bar stock with industrial strength panel adhesive with cross bolts to my front frame rails and under the camper... all known weak points have been strengthened prior to sealing the entire tongue and under-frame with spray-on bed liner. I contemplated having the bar stock welded to the frame rather than adhered but learned of how, given the thinness of the frame among other issues,, welding could cause weak spots, so I opted to go rely on chemistry with a helping hand from grade 8 bolts. While I was at it I also changed out the hitch to a heavy duty one.

Pretty sure I can now carry a Clydesdale in her, albeit a tinny one. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-18-2021, 08:21 AM   #9
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Name: JD
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Remember that every place that the frame is bent to shape the frame that frame has already failed at that point.
I doubt that a 1/4" cross bar at the front vee will make any difference in the strength. Welding in a frame sized cross member at the bend and adding fish plates would do the trick.
The weak points are where there are bends in the frame rails and the twisting from the differing stiffness in the frame from side to side. The entry door with the frame rail turned sideways will flex more than the solid frame on the other side.
Adding a second frame member (also laid flat) does not replace the bending strength either. Not only that reinforcing the attachment at the ends of these pieces under the door is important as well. I found cracking on each end of mine.
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Old 03-18-2021, 10:01 AM   #10
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Agreed, merely adding cross bars wouldn't strengthen the frame, especially at the bends. This is why we bent the steal around the bends and joined to the frame along the entire length of the run.
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Remember that every place that the frame is bent to shape the frame that frame has already failed at that point.
I doubt that a 1/4" cross bar at the front vee will make any difference in the strength. Welding in a frame sized cross member at the bend and adding fish plates would do the trick.
The weak points are where there are bends in the frame rails and the twisting from the differing stiffness in the frame from side to side. The entry door with the frame rail turned sideways will flex more than the solid frame on the other side.
Adding a second frame member (also laid flat) does not replace the bending strength either. Not only that reinforcing the attachment at the ends of these pieces under the door is important as well. I found cracking on each end of mine.
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Old 02-26-2022, 02:27 PM   #11
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Name: jagbor
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reinforcing 1973 Trillium 1300 frame

Hi! I have a 1973 Trillium 1300 and am in the process of taking the body off the frame/applying POR 15 and then body/paint. Our frame is sold but since I have the body off, I want to strengthen the frame where it bends towards the front "A" portion. Can someone please post some pics of what u did to accomplish this? I have a welder who is willing to do the work if I can provide him with a photo or better yet, a mock up of the pieces he needs to add. Thanks in advance.....I did search for this on this website but after 1 hr, found this post so added mine to it.
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Old 02-28-2022, 10:55 AM   #12
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Name: Dave W
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Below is a drawing that I did of the, "fish plates" that Trillium added to the frame in the late 70's. The reason for the tapered ends is to spread the stress over a larger area to prevent cracking. It should be noted that these are on both the inside and outside of the bend.
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Old 02-28-2022, 11:55 AM   #13
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Thanks David! Are the fish plates made out of 1/4" x 3" x 10" long pcs of steel or ?
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Old 02-28-2022, 02:19 PM   #14
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I have not had them Positive Material Identified, (PMI) but I assume that they are made of the same material as the frame tubes. Why use anything else? As for the dimensions, I will have to measure again. However, you can see that the fish plate is full width, (3") just as the inward bend begins, and ends just as the upward bend begins. Your welder should be able to figure it out.

I have seen other, non-factory fixes, that were just plate welded on. No taper.

Also, your 1973 Trillium probably has the bolts through holes drilled in the frame. This is typically where cracks start. It would be a good idea to have angle iron tabs welded to the frame, so that the angle is perpendicular, with both sides of the angle welded to the frame. Then drill bolt holes in the angle and the trailer for new mounting points. The old holes should be closed with fibreglass as well.
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Old 02-28-2022, 06:21 PM   #15
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Thanks David! Do u happen to have any pics of the iron tabs u mention to usew over the existing holes in the frame? I am just trying to make it as simple as possible for the welder. Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2022, 06:26 PM   #16
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Hi! I did see this video and owner got a new aluminun frame from Outback in Alberta. What was interesting to me is that they placed 1 pc of tubing angled from the center bar to the inside of the frame to "strengthen the weak pints in the frame" vs wrapping the aluminum around the frame as D. Tilston's diagram on this thread?
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Old 03-03-2022, 09:36 PM   #17
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Name: Darrell
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My SWAG on use of bar(s) vs fish plates is one different metals and his is full replacement frame of aluminum. I can see a few pluses in aluminum vs steel and negatives in cycle loading of the aluminum frame work hardened then failure. Depending on what grade it is made from. But lighter weight and little to no "rust / corrosion" makes it a time saver vs life cycle wise.
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