New day, new problems (windows in Trillium 1300)

[JanelleNorthernBC]

Hello again! Jane here with another 100 questions. This time regarding window reno.

I have read a dozen posts on removing windows ect. (Thank you, Bill)

Long story short, while I was cleaning the trailer yesterday I found the frames of the windows looked wet. Sure enough, the wood frame in spots was soaked. Looks like I will need to replace the framing, which was something I was hoping to put off until next year (HA)

The front window:
Does the bunk bed screw into that window frame? If so- while it’s removed, is there a way to reinforce that frame/ make the frame a little larger to secure the bunk bed better? Same goes for the rock guard.

What kind of wood do I need to try and get?
Is it possible to buy pre- cut specifically for the window framing?

Are there any updated links for the Butyl Tape on Amazon? (Canada)
Some of the links I found were broken.
And screws- what size should I be trying to get? Are they something that I can buy from Canadian tire or home hardware?

How is the frame secured to the trailer? Will it be obvious when I take our the previous one, or is there a method I didn’t read for that? In most posts it seems like there is already a general knowledge that I don’t have haha

Is there any reason at all I should hold off on the windows?
Do they need to be off for any other sort if Reno or problem I might run into?

Again, the previous forums were wonderful resources! But a lot of it was Greek for me as I have virtually 0 know-how. Eager to learn and start the process
Thank you all in advance for your time and advice.

[David Tilston]

Jane, I did a thread on replacing windows:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ead-65342.html

I also did some drawings:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post698712
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post699829

The front window:
Yes the upper bunk mounts to the window frame, (see drawings). I see no problem making the bottom part of the frame larger, though I have never heard of the bed coming loose.

The kind of wood:
I used regular 3/4" plywood, but I painted it before installing it. I left some of the bare wood exposed at the bottom of each piece for drainage to help keep the wood dry. Marine plywood would probably be better. No store would have the required part pre-made. It would help if you have a friend with a table saw.

Butyl Tape:
I just go to the nearest RV dealership parts department. On Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/Dicor-BT-1834-.../dp/B001FCB4JS

Screws:
I purchased #8 stainless steel 3/4" long, pan head wood, or sheet metal screws at a local bolt supply house in Calgary: https://www.calfast.com/

The frame is mostly secured with the screws that hold the windows on. They are through the window and the fibreglass and into the wood. However the wood is glued to the Ensolite. If the wood is not wet and rotten, then it is very hard to separate it from the Ensolite. After doing all the windows in one of my Trilliums, I decided that the windows that had intact wood should be left alone. I damaged the Ensolite trying to separate it from the plywood.

If you are planning to paint the trailer, the windows should all be off.

We were all new to this at one time. With the amount of work your trailer requires, you will be an expert soon. Have fun and take your time. If it keep out the rain, you can camp in it.

[thrifty bill]

Do one window at a time. You will get better and better at it.

You are going to use several HUNDRED screws. Myself, I bought them at eBay as it was cheaper. I replenished my stock last month, paid $6.75 US for 100 screws.

Count the screws on just one window. Then count how many windows you have. It adds up. I would never buy them at a local hardware store or Canadian Tire. Local hardware stores tend to sell screws 4 or 5 in a package. I think Lowes price is something like 4 screws for $1. Thats $25 for 100 screws. Pass. Odds of me finding 300 of them? Zero. No thanks! And realize wherever you buy them, they are all most likely from China. I think some of mine were actually from Taiwan, which was a surprise.

As long as you are not going to paint the outside, do the windows NOW. Myself, I do everything I can to NOT paint these trailers. Reviving the old gel coat is cheaper, less work, and to me at least, looks better. Randy has a fleet of Trilliums, he has polished them all! Now on the broken egg Dave had, where the roof collapsed. That trailer will have extensive fiberglass repair. At that point, painting is the right choice.

The framing is basically held up by the windows, and the wood holds up the windows. They both assist each other. As long as you don't put a lot of weight on the top bunk, I would just replace in kind, 3/4 plywood with an angle cut. Use the wood you remove as a guide. Use a table saw or a circular saw.

Original wood lasted 40 years (actually, 75% of mine was still good, so it will last longer). I see no reason to go with anything better. And chances are, your trailer was not well maintained. Since you will likely maintain it better, the replacement wood should last even longer, right? I'm an engineer by trade, 40 year life is excellent. Wish my car lasted 40 years with no maintenance. I would call 40 year life a rousing success!

If the wood is good, keep it. I found maybe three or four rotten pieces. The bottom and one side on the front, and one on the back as I recall. I replaced those. The screws will tell you first. If the screws are rusted and the threads rotted out, then you've had a water leak for a long time, and the wood is likely rotten. Probe a little. Truth be told, I had a few screw holes that had a little localized rot, but the wood was solid. On those, I did the hot melt glue and toothpick trick to reinforce the holes. Its a judgment call.

I learned what I know mainly from David Tilston and Randy Bishop. Read their threads thoroughly. Don't try to create new shortcuts, just follow the lead of the masters (Randy and David).