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Old 11-05-2016, 07:27 PM   #21
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Looking good Cory
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Old 11-06-2016, 11:46 AM   #22
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Nice looking work!


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Old 11-08-2016, 05:02 PM   #23
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Tennessee
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Frame Mods Complete

Thanks for all encouragement.

I finished up the frame. The only thing I think would do different is use 1/8" 2"X3" angle instead of 3/16". The 3/16" is much harder to work with and adds a lot of weight. I think the 1/8" would add all the extra stiffness needed.

I painted the frame using spray on truck bed coating. I like the way it turned out. It covers up a lot of the frame imperfections and my poor looking welds. I tried regular paint, and it did not look good.

I sure hope the frame fits under the camper!!!!! I will be sick if it does not.
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:03 PM   #24
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Body Back on Frame

I thought I was done with the frame work, but I was wrong. The spare tire was sitting too high (to close to the floor). I had to modify the tire holder and drop it another 2".

I sprayed the fender wells with rubberized undercoating. No real need to do this, but I think it looks better.

I'm pleased with the way the trailer sits. I was kinda worried about putting in the wider axle. I may eventually go with bigger tires (14"s), but these will do for now.

Glad I put the larger scissor jacks in. The original drop downs would not have worked and the smaller scissor jacks would not have been enough with the extra height.

I bought the cargo holder at a yard sale. I may make another one, but I can use this one if I have to.

I suppose I will start on the floor next.
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:18 PM   #25
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Floor is Roughed In

Finally got the floor roughed in. I feel like this is a big hurdle. I still need to bolt it down, glue it in, and screw down the inner flange. I definitely did not get the floor installed in 3 pieces like I thought, it took 5 pieces. It was a lot harder than I thought to maneuver the pieces into place due having to go over the outer lip and under the inside furniture. I used a cardboard templates to help get the fit right. I used 5/8 plywood. I think I am going to spray the bottom with rubberized undercoating.
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Old 11-26-2016, 03:50 PM   #26
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Hi Cory,
Looking good!
Did you trim away all of the lip on the topside in order to get the 5/8 plywood in?
I left that part of the lip on and could only fit 1/2 inch.
Jeanne
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:03 PM   #27
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I am curious why you chose plywood for your floor repair instead of a engineered water impervious type of sub-floor material such as the Huber "Advantech" product?
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:09 PM   #28
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Replies to Flooring Questions...

Jeanne, See the attached photo. I cut out the top lip and left the bottom lip. I figured I would never get the floor back in if I kept both lips. Buy cutting out the top lip, I was able to trace the profile and get a really good fit. I think I am going to screw the bottom lip to the floor from the bottom about every 1-2" then glue the floor to the shell around the edges using epoxy or liquid nails. I wanted to use 3/4" floor but I did not think I could get it to fit under the furniture.

Vintageracer ... I had intended on installing the floor then pulling it all out and coating both sides (and the plywood edges) with about 5-6 coats of waterseal (which I already have from another project). I am trying to control costs, I have already spent way too much. It was so hard to get the floor in, I don't have the heart to pull the entire floor back out and reinstall. I think I am going to coat the entire bottom in rubberized undercoating. I have done a test piece and I think it will work well and make a nice barrier. I will probably coat the entire top side with the water seal before installing the hardwood floors. Also when I am done, this camper will be stored with a cover over it under a carport. It should not rot in my lifetime and likely not my sons either. After that, it's someone else's problem. That's my thoughts. I'm open to suggestions, but I really don't wanna pull that dang floor back out.
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory Wells View Post
That's my thoughts. I'm open to suggestions, but I really don't wanna pull that dang floor back out.
I hear you. If you can figure out a way to make it work without having to reinstall, I'd do it.
My original floor was not waterproofed all of the way around and lasted over 30 years.


I never thought about cutting off that top lip. Not a bad idea.

Jeanne
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:03 AM   #30
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What was the rubber undercoating you sprayed on? We might be able to do that to our Bigfoot.

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Old 11-27-2016, 07:58 AM   #31
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Can I chime in with some suggestions?
Rubberized undercoating is available in at least a couple forms, and various brands. [1] You can buy spray cans at Lowes, along with your 2x4s... and at any place that sells automotive products & paint supplies. In the automotive trades, this works fine for touching up small areas that have been worked on.
[2] You can also buy it in thick, liquid form at the auto places--intended to be applied with what's often called an "undercoating gun" or "bedliner gun". More expensive product, but goes on thicker. Probably lasts longer. Needs more clearance underneath to do a decent job of applying, and has more drips & over-spray issues... a big sheet of plastic laid on ground or floor works well to control that, and should extend several feet out from perimeter of camper.
[3] To go "crazy" [which is my plan] you can take approach #2, but with pickup bedliner product. My favorite is epoxy-catalyzed, tough as nails, from these folks:
Products | Welcome to Liner Xtreeme A medium-sized kit will run $100 or so, and another $20 for the gun...... and, of course, you'd need an air compressor for approaches 2 & 3.
For what it's worth......
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:04 PM   #32
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Undercoating

I agree with Gary that the commercial product would be better. However, I just put one coat of the Rustoleum paintable undercoat from Lowes on today. You could see the plywood grain on the first coat. I tested a spot for the second coat and it covered really well. I think it will do a good job. I have used the 3M undercoating from the Auto Stores and I think It may be a little better. It is about $10 a can instead of $7.

As for the bed liner, I would check with the manufacturer. My experience with using bed liner on anything other than metal, may eventually cause problems. It chips and cracks if there is any expansion, flex or movement. Most of the bed liners are tough, but not very flexible. Wood floors will expand/shrink based on relative humidity. Not saying it won't work but I would do a little research and/or see what the mfg has to say. If they say it will be fine, I'm sure it will work and be much better than a spray can from Lowes.
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Old 11-27-2016, 09:28 PM   #33
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Even though it is a real hassle to pull the floor back out to coat it, there is no doubt you'll end up with a much better job if you do. Fully coated edges, coated where it lays on the cross members, coated on top under the cabinets, etc. Water will not be an issue after that. How would you feel driving in the next rain storm with any exposed plywood down there?

You can also glue and screw on some doubler pieces underneath where the cut spans between the cross members. Add them to one piece and the other piece will land on the flange you've created for stability. Then add some screws to tie them together.

I once put a new plywood floor in my boat. Just to get me by until I decided on the final finish material, I coated it several times with acrylic floor paint on all edges and both sides. That ended being the finish and I used it for eighteen more years and it was still fine. If you don't have a finish floor material decided on, it's hard to beat floor paint. Cheap, easy to clean, easy to install, can be re-done in minutes if needed, adds no weight or thickness, waterproofs the wood, etc. Just add a rug for warmth and better appearance, if needed.
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Old 02-17-2017, 10:46 PM   #34
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Test Window Rebuild

I’ve not seen a post where all the parts and steps to rebuild a Burro window were in one place. Not sure if there are differences between year models?? I think I got everything to work properly. I’m not sure the window will not leak, but I sure hope it does not. I ordered the parts to try and assembly a small window. I think it went OK, so I will order the parts to the rest of the windows. This took a lot longer than I thought, but I had to learn what to do. It also took me a really long time to figure out all the parts. I had to order samples and try a few different things. Hope this helps someone in the future. New windows are super pricey.

Before
• Disassemble window.
• Clean metal frame parts. Either Brush/Polish the aluminum or paint. I can never get paint to stick to aluminum. The frame had a lot of dents and scratches, so it did not look good polished. I used a wire drill brush to rough the aluminum, then I finished off with steel wool.
• Make sure the drain holes in the bottom of the frame are clean and clear.

Step 1
I could not find a seal that matched the original top seal for the sliding window. The seal track for the seal for the top window slide is only about ¼” wide. Pelland Part H009-344-19 is a little wider than this, so it has to be trimmed. I used scissors and a razor.

Step 2
Pull the seal through the track. I used a pair of pliers to pull one end. I used a heat gun to help. The picture does not show it, but you have to trim a little seal on each end to get the bar to install in the frame.

Step 3
Re-attach the cross bar and secure with screws on each end.

Step 4
Install double sided tape to the window frame. I used 3M VHB #5108 Double Sided Acrylic Foam Automotive Attachment Tape (8mm wide).

Step 5
Install the top fixed window. I used plastic sheet (I can get scrap free from work) for the windows. I cut it using a spiral bit with the original window on top as a guide. I would prefer to use tempered glass, but all the local glass places wanted to much.

Step 6
Install the top window seal. I used Pelland Part KRV08523-03. A heat gun really helped with this.

Step 7
Install the two plastic channels for the slider window. I forgot to take a picture of this. I reused what I had, since these were hard plastic parts and still were in good shape. If you want new, this is a pretty common RV window part. Install the slider window next. Note that if you use glass, you will need to cut the frame and spread it apart. If you use a plastic window, it will bend enough to pop in.

Step 8
Attach the slider lock. Mine was originally glued to the window. I attached by drilling and tapping two screws.

Step 9
Install the outer seal for the slider window. This was really hard and took some time. I had to use the heat gun. I used Pelland Part H009-842-19. It is a little wavy in the corners, but I think it will relax out with time.

Step 10
Install the screen. Make sure the expansion clips are on one side and there is a spacer for the other side. Install a small piece of foam at the top of the screen (if you do not, there will be a gap and bugs can get in when the window is up). Install the screen with the clip side in first. Back fill the gap with the plastic spacer. You can use about anything for a spacer. This is also a common RV window part. I reused the one I had since it was hard plastic and still in good shape.

Step 11
I don’t have a picture of this, but next you install the window to the door. Apply a butyl tape to the back side of the window frame. I ordered Heng's 5855 Off-White Butyl Tape 3/16" x 3/4" x 20' Roll. On the inside of the window, attach the inside metal frame to the outside window frame using screws. Tighten until some of the tape gests squished out. Trim off any excess.
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1 Window - Before_Ink_LI.jpg   2 Window - Final Front_Ink_LI.jpg  

3 Window - Final Back_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 1_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 2a_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 2b_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 3_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 4_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 5_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 6_Ink_LI.jpg  

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Old 02-17-2017, 10:49 PM   #35
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Test Window Rebuild (Remaing Step Pictures)

All the pictures for the steps would not fit on one post
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Window - Step 7_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 8_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 9_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 10a_Ink_LI.jpg  

Window - Step 10b_Ink_LI.jpg   Window - Step 10c_Ink_LI.jpg  

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Old 02-17-2017, 11:00 PM   #36
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More Misc Window Information

Pelland Seal Information - This is where I bought all my window seals. Not counting S&H, the seals cost be about $20.

One of the pictures below is a quote for Motion Industries for brand new windows.

Attached is also a cross section of all the seal/plastic parts used in the original window.
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Window - Seals.jpg   Motion Windows Quote.JPG  

Window Seals All - Labeled.jpg   Sample Kit.jpg  

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Old 02-19-2017, 07:26 PM   #37
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What do you think about the sink?

For the kitchen, I wanted something a little more modern looking than the standard stainless sink. I installed this today, and was all excited until my wife said she did not like it. Looking for comments. If it looks really bad, no big deal to remove this and cut a hole for a standard stainless sink. By the way, I am thinking about staining the counter top a dark coffee and finish in semi-gloss poly.

No hard feelings to anyone who says they don't like it. I hate to spend all this time on the camper restore and ruin it with an eyesore. Thanks.
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Old 02-19-2017, 07:55 PM   #38
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I like it. Looks like a small IKEA bathroom sink. The little hooks are practical. However, the main thing to consider is what will be washed in that sink and is it feasible for that task?

Really like the single burner as well. That's about all one needs.
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Old 02-19-2017, 08:42 PM   #39
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It doesn't matter what others think.....Happy Wife, Happy Life.
Dave & Paula
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Old 02-19-2017, 11:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
It doesn't matter what others think.....Happy Wife, Happy Life.
Dave & Paula
Bingo!
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