1975 Biggar converted to an one fishing palace - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:01 AM   #1
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Biggar
Manitoba
Posts: 29
1975 Biggar converted to an one fishing palace

Hi. I’m on the process of making my Biggar RV into an ice fishing palace for my son and I.

I will enclose some before pics....

You could see some water damage and it smelled a bit like it was moist...


I paid $1000 Canadian for this.....felt good about that price. It was listed for $2500. I told them I’d offer $800 if they couldn’t sell it. They lowered to $1500 and we met at $1000.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:11 AM   #2
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Biggar
Manitoba
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And here are some during the gutting....

The Fiberglass insulation was wet (soggy) in a lot of places. Lots of holes to seal.

There was also evidence that there was a family of squirrels living in there....lol...I vacuumed up a lot of acorns!



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Old 08-23-2020, 06:27 AM   #3
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Biggar
Manitoba
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And here is the empty RV fully gutted.

Now to the build back....

I was hoping to get some advice. I removed the front formed dinette/bed/upper shelving unit. I was very careful and took it out in one piece (4 actually). Does this act as structure for the pod? I’m not sure if the top half will rip off as I’m driving without it holding it all together.

I don’t think it does, but I’m wrong 50% of the time...lol



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Old 08-23-2020, 06:44 AM   #4
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Name: bill
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Almost alll the interior cabinetry is structural. These fiberglass shells are on the flimsy side. Roof will sag, walls will bow out, door will no longer close, etc. Need to have a plan to build something inside. Stuff that went to the roof is pretty obviously structural. But even stuff that went horizontal, provided strength to side walls, helping maintain the shape.

I'd get some temporary supports up to the roof immediately.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:46 AM   #5
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Wow, that rig has a lot of floor space! You can not only fish to your hearts content, you can throw the Annual Winter Fishhead Ball in there. LOL Keep posting the pictures.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:50 AM   #6
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Name: Tim
Trailer: Biggar
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I was planning on adding more ribs and making sure everything (sofa, cabinets, etc) connects from wall to wall or ceiling to ceiling.

There are already some thicker ribs on the ceiling. I’ll put up a few pieces of wood holding it up.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:54 AM   #7
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Name: Tim
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I’m envious of all the Fiberglass Rvs they have the frame outside. I like how with theframe inside to be lower to the ice.....but there are a lot of entry points that will need to be sealed.

Any tips on how to seal the points where the frame goes into the shell?


.
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Old 08-23-2020, 05:35 PM   #8
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Name: sven
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automotive seam sealer

been in use for ever. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-se...dc5019a1c050fa

fast setting stays flexible. https://www.ebay.com/i/261441236032?...b497507cf7d7a4
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Old 08-23-2020, 07:48 PM   #9
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That looks much stronger than a typical fiberglass shell, with lots of stiffeners and room for wires and insulation. Love how the frame is inside. It looks like it needs some work where the frame mounts to the body and then exits the front. That needs to be a solid, corrosion free connection. Then maybe glassed solidly to the frame rails where they exit. I wonder if you could build up a square glass tube around the frame rail, with a lot of layers, laid up over wax paper, and then slide it back through the front wall and glass it to the body?

If you skinned the interior with plywood, screwed to those ribs, it would get quite strong. Then an interior finish mounted inside of that and you'll have a nice tight trailer ready to go anywhere.

I'm impressed with how that was built.

What kind of suspension does it have?
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Old 08-25-2020, 12:50 PM   #10
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Name: Tim
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Nothing fancy about the suspension. Just a double axle with no leaf springs.

Do you think I need to fiberglass in all the new ribs or will one of the PL adhesives hold just as well?
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Old 08-25-2020, 02:11 PM   #11
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I would think PL adhesives, or better yet, two part epoxy would be sufficient for attaching new ribs.

Thinking more about the steel frame encased within the body, I think it would be best to use a marine adhesive/sealant where the frame rails enter/exit the body, as straight fiberglass reinforced resin would eventually crack. MUCH more importantly, how is the body fastened to the underside of the frame? I suggest you inspect any fasteners holding the body to the underside of the frame and replace as required. Maybe bolted using large washers or plates?
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Old 08-25-2020, 03:00 PM   #12
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Name: Tim
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Great advice thanks...

The bottom will be getting a layer of something...plywood, rubber gym mat, sheet metal. I need to put a barrier between the bottom and the ice ridge I’m going to pile over!
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icefish View Post
Nothing fancy about the suspension. Just a double axle with no leaf springs.

Do you think I need to fiberglass in all the new ribs or will one of the PL adhesives hold just as well?
Polyurethane, such as 3M 5200, will hold as strong as the fiberglass layup in the body. Plus it is somewhat flexible and sticks immediately. Or just fiberglass any new ribs in place.

It won't do much good to glass the thin body directly to the steel frame. That is why I suggested building the fiberglass box tube around the frame and sliding it in. Then glassing to that tube with a number of layers. But the body mounts must be OK first.
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Old 08-26-2020, 01:01 PM   #14
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body mounts are fine...I will use the 3m 5200 (or a PL product). I saw that youtube video where the wood was giving out before the glue. I think that will save me a bunch of cash. When i decide which windows go, then ill get to the glass
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Old 08-28-2020, 09:30 PM   #15
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Name: Tim
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So I think I may have won the Fiberglass lottery today....I picked this roll up for $5.

I think this stuff is pretty good because the weave is so tight. Or am I wrong?

Also, which resin would you pick, or should I go to the marine shop and get one that is $200 for the resin and hardner and metered squirt thing

Evercoat was $108 for a gallon and the hardner.

Professional was $86 for a gallon and the hardner.
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Old 09-29-2020, 05:42 PM   #16
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Name: Tim
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Subfloor in with epoxy adhesive and starting to plug the openings in the side.
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Old 10-06-2020, 07:48 PM   #17
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Lots of work going on in there. Where will you have the holes to fish through?
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:47 PM   #18
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There is space between certain areas of the frame. I’m going to get the floor in loosely and then decide the final layout. Likely do 5 holes.
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