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12-24-2017, 11:01 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonpies4misfits
These seem like two different Methods? One w fiberglass and one with Aluminum sheet. I'd like to maintain the fiberglass look of the window surround. There are body fillers with metal mixed in and I figured the "aluminum filler" was made up of this.
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You can also buy aluminum sandwich from amazon in black or white
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12-24-2017, 01:28 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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Looked for aluminum sandwich on Amazon but not sure what it is. I think I'm more confused than when I started. Any other pics avail to clue me in on this process?
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12-24-2017, 01:38 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonpies4misfits
Looked for aluminum sandwich on Amazon but not sure what it is. I think I'm more confused than when I started. Any other pics avail to clue me in on this process?
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Search for aluminum composite sheet
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12-24-2017, 02:01 PM
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#24
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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Found it.! What if I had a sheet of this and traced/cutout the new window opening, screw/clamp the cutout to existing window opening where I want the new window then apply a little resin and fiberglass Matt over the top of the sandwich, sand, lightly apply bondo filler, sand and paint? Would this work or is there an easier way? Seems like structurally it would be good and if I could get it to match existing fiberglass it would look good. Would I screw/clamp to the inside or outside of existing window opening?
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12-24-2017, 04:31 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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I used urethane windshield sealant and pop rivets
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12-24-2017, 05:13 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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I used fiberglass resin between the 1/8" aluminum and the outside of the trailer. Next time I'll probably use Proflex. Attached the aluminum with a few machine screws and lock nuts .
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12-24-2017, 09:30 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonpies4misfits
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I have noted in my files that the original radius is 2 1/2" and the Scamp window is 3".You can draw a circle on paper with those radiuses to check.
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12-31-2017, 08:07 AM
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#28
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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Seems like the Scamp Windows will work for the front and back by enlarging the openings and will work for the two sides by adding fiberglass to reduce the openings. What about the door window? Most I see as RV replacements are too big.
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12-31-2017, 08:18 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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I don't know of anyone finding a replacement door window, other than using a solid piece of glass which would make it a non-opening window.
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12-31-2017, 09:44 AM
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#30
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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Was thinking of that as an option. I replaced our door window on our Scotty Sero with a piece of Lexan and a new frame but the frame fit the existing opening. This will be more challenging.
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12-31-2017, 09:56 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Just get a piece of glass, or lexan to fit directly into the rubber weatherstrip. Automotive safety glass would work. I don't know the thickness of the fiberglass at the door window opening, but assuming it is 3/16" thick as at the side windows, and if you use 1/4" thick glass, then the AS1456 weatherstrip would work good as one groove is 3/16 and the other is 1/4". Or you could get a custom window made to fit. Look on eBay for RV windows or teardrop trailer windows, as there are always cheap windows there. You might get lucky and find one that will fit.
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01-01-2018, 02:18 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 1996 16' Casita SD
Louisiana
Posts: 555
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I went the easy way. Piece of smoked lexan. Cut it to fit and screwed it in with black windshield sticky rubber-like sealant. Used decorative caps over the bolts. No leaks. Looks great.
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01-01-2018, 04:16 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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I like the look and seems pretty straightforward! I like the idea of leaving the existing opening if I want to put back a framed window in the future. What does it look like from inside? I don't see the decorative caps on outside. What did you use to cut the curved corners? I have a decent Jigsaw but guessing I would need a finetooth blade. Is it black weather stripping you used?
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01-01-2018, 04:19 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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How did you go about replacing the door hinges? They look great.
If the door window is out, is there access to the inside of the door?
Mine doesn't seal 100% and old door/hinge screws are wobbly.
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01-01-2018, 07:43 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 1996 16' Casita SD
Louisiana
Posts: 555
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On the inside is just the bolts and unlock nuts. They are covered by the curtains. The decorative caps are black. You can get them at Lowe's. A fine tooth blade is all you need.
I made a template out of cardboard and cut the Lexan a little larger.
A simple fix for me.
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01-01-2018, 07:56 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Name: Adam
Trailer: Uhaul
Florida
Posts: 26
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Sounds like a good mod. Thanks for the suggestion!
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