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Old 02-10-2013, 11:40 AM   #21
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Don,
Did you have to use a converter or simply change the bulbs? I have the flat 4 pin plug to tow vehicle.
Thanks,
Patti
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:16 PM   #22
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Don,
Did you have to use a converter or simply change the bulbs? I have the flat 4 pin plug to tow vehicle.
Thanks,
Patti

Not Don, but while we are waiting, I'll share my experience. The UHaul tail light fixtures each have two bulbs with two filaments each. Plus a ground wire.

So, how do you connect 10 wires to the 4 pin plug?

If you want to have amber turn signals you use an adapter like this:
Curt Manufacturing 56196 Converter : Amazon.com : Automotive

  • The 2 grounds are connected together to make 1, then to white wire
  • The two filaments in the top, amber sockets are connected together to make 2 pairs, then left pair to yellow wire, right pair to green wire
  • The right and left brake filaments are connected together to make 1, then to red wire
  • The right and left tail light filaments are connected together to make 1, then to brown wire
The wires coming into the adapter wire like a standard trailer with the brown tail light wire bypassing the adapter.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #23
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Don,
Did you have to use a converter or simply change the bulbs? I have the flat 4 pin plug to tow vehicle.
Thanks,
Patti
I do have a converter so I could get back to 3way and use the amber turn signals but that is not necessary to just change the incandescant to LEDs (both using the bayonet bases.) Simply swap them out. I bought the highest #LEDs in red and amber and they have worked great so far!!! (Made in China off eBay)
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:31 PM   #24
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I ordered four of the 12v regulators from Taiwan. Six bucks. Any tips for soldering these tiny critters?

jack
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:39 PM   #25
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I ordered four of the 12v regulators from Taiwan. Six bucks. Any tips for soldering these tiny critters?

jack

I bought some inexpensive breadboards to give them something to live on. Also use a small electronics soldering iron (not a huge honker) to solder them to the board.

10x 5x7cm DIY Prototype Paper PCB Universal Board Circuit Board Breadboard Good | eBay
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:40 AM   #26
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Thanks Don, Swapping out the bulbs is something I'd like to do.
Thanks Tom, For your info too.
Patti
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:26 PM   #27
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.....Thanks Tom, For your info too.
Patti
I hope it helped, as I was bewildered when I first got into my tail lights, which were miswired when I bought it.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:08 PM   #28
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Explanation of the rationale for addition of capacitors to the reg circuitry can be found by searching Google for LED regulation topics.

jack
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:33 PM   #29
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Explanation of the rationale for addition of capacitors to the reg circuitry can be found by searching Google for LED regulation topics.

jack
I don't know what they are for either.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:40 PM   #30
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Most comprehensive explanation here:

How to Connect a Voltage Regulator in a Circuit

I find you "train drivers" pretty scary!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:51 AM   #31
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Most comprehensive explanation here:

How to Connect a Voltage Regulator in a Circuit

I find you "train drivers" pretty scary!
Thanks Jack. I was half kidding, but I'd think the capacitors would minimize the interference in electronic devices like radio and TV.

My high school friend told everyone that he wanted to be an engineer and then proceeded to try to get a job with the railroad operating locomotives.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:27 PM   #32
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My heat sinks finally came from Thailand. I didn't bother with the capacitors. The solder joints are pretty rough; I shouldn't have used stranded wire. Did solder the the regulator last and it was much the easiest to heat and get a fast flow. Anyway I've got lights which I guess means I've got continuity thru the things. I did my three dual fixtures and I have three other flat panels in single fixtures without the regulator for a comparison of "bulb" life.

I have had no problem with the 3M double sticky stuck to the aluminum reflector in the Bargman duals or to painted back panel in other fixtures. I even have one in the range hood and it has stayed put while exhausting the heat air from three burners. I wish I knew why.

jack
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:47 PM   #33
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bump
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:33 AM   #34
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My heat sinks finally came from Thailand. I didn't bother with the capacitors. The solder joints are pretty rough; I shouldn't have used stranded wire. Did solder the the regulator last and it was much the easiest to heat and get a fast flow. Anyway I've got lights which I guess means I've got continuity thru the things. I did my three dual fixtures and I have three other flat panels in single fixtures without the regulator for a comparison of "bulb" life.

I have had no problem with the 3M double sticky stuck to the aluminum reflector in the Bargman duals or to painted back panel in other fixtures. I even have one in the range hood and it has stayed put while exhausting the heat air from three burners. I wish I knew why.

jack
Way to go Jack. Your soldering skills won't get you a job on the iPhone assembly line, but it looks solid. You used a little heavier wire than I did, but I installed a second 1 amp fuse in my light fixture to protect the small wire.

I gave up on the Chinese "3M" foam and used a thin aluminum sheet with edge flanges to trap the light panel. The foam's only function is to insulate the electrical contacts from the aluminum.

Let us know how these work out for you.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:20 PM   #35
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Doing better with the solder on 18awg solid conductor. Yes, I know I used black hot and green common. It's what it is and that's what Ratshack had. The conductor doesn't know the difference. I'll have to use pink butt conns on both the feed side and the output this time to avoid soldering stranded from the fixture into the pc board. It was a PITA to prop up the light fixture to do the former. I also did not use the screw terminals I bought because of limitations of hole spacing and copper trace on these little chips of board.
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DSC01090.jpg   DSC01097.jpg  

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Old 03-23-2013, 08:56 AM   #36
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Ttt
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:02 AM   #37
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Ttt
I think that you just might qualify for a job on the iPhone assembly line.
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:10 PM   #38
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I ordered another envelope load of these gizmos to do the rest of the lights now that I'm certain I can get them in the fixtures. I will have to insulate the underside of the board for the remainder as they have metal shells. The Bargmans are all plastic and a single wire tie was enuf to restrain the uninsulated board to avoid shorts.

The only advantage I have soldering at this scale is that I am nearsighted and have extremely clear vision at 6 to 9" distance. I have a magnifier hood but didn't use it. The joints do look a bit more reliable.

jack
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Old 03-23-2013, 12:31 PM   #39
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........ I will have to insulate the underside of the board for the remainder as they have metal shells. The Bargmans are all plastic and a single wire tie was enuf to restrain the uninsulated board to avoid shorts. ..........jack
I use the brush on electrical "tape" for this. It covers up my sloppy work.

Performix LT14023 4OZ Black Electrical Liquid Tape - Amazon.com
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