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Old 11-19-2012, 09:56 PM   #21
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Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew78 View Post
i'm so excited!!
i hit the jackpot today, not the lotto but pretty closes. I found a frame!!!
I love it when a plan comes together

Post pictures and let us know about challenges that you run into. Others may benefit by your experiences.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:24 PM   #22
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Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT-13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew78 View Post
i'm so excited!!
i hit the jackpot today, not the lotto but pretty closes. I found a frame!!!
it is off a rockwood freedom pop up trailer that had the roof crushed by a tree.
frame is very close, will need some minor cuts put nothing major. the length is perfect and the axle is in the exact same spot. and the bonus is it has brakes. stripped the whole trailer in about three hours. lots of extra goodies.
i can't wait to get uhaul off the ground,
Very Excellent!!!

Hope your fastener points line up for you without too much extra fabrication but it will sure beat starting from scratch.
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:31 PM   #23
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Giddy up

Well done, looking forward to hearing how this plays out!
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:47 PM   #24
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How great for you that a new frame fell into your lap! (metaphorically speaking, of course !!) Keep the pics of this project coming!
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:32 PM   #25
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Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
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Glad to hear that you found a frame- hope the "minor cuts" don't amount to much!
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:33 AM   #26
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Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
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I brought home my new frame tonight, tows perfectly. (pictures to be posted shortly)

the uhaul were mount to the frames with bolts. between the frame and the body are anti vibration disc. THe new fram needs long strips as i'm going to do the whole frame. does anybody has any suggestions on what to use? it would need to be about 1" Wide. i was thinking something that came in a roll, I could glue on, but could also by something and cut it in strips.

asking the experts for help, thats you guys

thanks
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:01 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by andrew78 View Post
I brought home my new frame tonight, tows perfectly. (pictures to be posted shortly)

the uhaul were mount to the frames with bolts. between the frame and the body are anti vibration disc. THe new fram needs long strips as i'm going to do the whole frame. does anybody has any suggestions on what to use? it would need to be about 1" Wide. i was thinking something that came in a roll, I could glue on, but could also by something and cut it in strips.

asking the experts for help, thats you guys

thanks
Andrew, are you asking what to use in place of the rubber washers? One place to get rubber sheet fairly cheaply is to buy heavy truck mud flaps. They sell them at automotive stores and truck stop supply places.

Another option is off the internet, like these places:

Sheet Rubber Prices, Availability - Updated Daily

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Rubber%20...hick/00093259/
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:09 PM   #28
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Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
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sorry i forgot t omention what i was replacing, yes i'm replacing the rubber disc. i never thought of mud flaps. i will check those websites as well
thanks for ideas
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:12 PM   #29
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I use rubber belting for applications like this.
I've got some that was thrown away at the local mill...if one's in farm country, farmers go through quite a bit of it, too. One can also buy small quantities online. Most is wider than an inch, but can of course be cut with a utility knife



6" 3 Ply Thresher, Conveyor, Baler Belting ~ Priced Per Foot

Francesca
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:19 PM   #30
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Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
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Baler belt was going to be my suggestion. It will outlast mudflaps, even used belting will, IMHO.
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Old 12-01-2012, 12:42 PM   #31
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Thank goodness for farmers.

I agree this rubberized belting would also work. All you need to do is to spread the load slightly in the vicinity of the body to frame bolt.
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Old 12-01-2012, 06:29 PM   #32
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Welcome to the site Andrew. It is so exciting for us all to watch a project in progress. As was said previously, any thing you need help with or answers too, you will find here. Some of the most knowledgable people I have ever encountered. Dont get discouraged, you will have an amazing RV when you are finished. Just take it slow and easy. Keep the photos coming and good luck from California, USA
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:04 AM   #33
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Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
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so its been a while since i have done anything on my trailer. my wife would rather have her car in our garage over the winter than the trailer.

I have finished the frame, and about to attach the shell to the frame. just wanted to know what people thought is the best way to attach the two together?

the frame is not all a round tube frame, some of it is a square frame and u-channel.

i was thinking just using metal screws instead of bolts, any thoughts or comments are always welcome on what i should do

thanks
andrew

i promise to post more pictures tonight
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:13 AM   #34
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I replaced the Fiber Stream 5/16" carriage bolts with stainless steel elevator bolts, lock washers, and nuts. This worked very well for me. Elevator bolts are essentially carriage bolts with a large, flat, 1" diameter head.

Vic
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:20 AM   #35
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I replaced the Fiber Stream 5/16" carriage bolts with stainless steel elevator bolts, lock washers, and nuts. This worked very well for me. Elevator bolts are essentially carriage bolts with a large, flat, 1" diameter head.

Vic
+1 on elevator bolts.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...GuTYyAGXgYGQCA
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:24 AM   #36
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Trillium bodies are bolted through the frame with a large washer on the inside of the body and a washer, lock washer and nut on the outside. I would think that a bolt would be more secure, less likely to come loose, and better able to be cinched tight than a screw. my 2 cents worth.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #37
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Name: andrew
Trailer: 17 boler
Ontario
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i was thinking bolts but when i took apart a popup trailer for the frame it was just screwed together.

bolts it is then
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:27 AM   #38
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
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I had the bolts on my trailer installed with the nut on the inside. That way rust would be less of a problem. It almost made putting the porta-potty in it's garage impossible. I had to cut the bolt off flush with the nut.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:34 AM   #39
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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when I replaced the rusted away original elevator bolts in the floor of our Uhaul I used 5/16 bolts instead of the original 1/4" size. And instead of elevator bolts I used a grade 5 bolt with a large fender washer against the floor, flat washer and lock washer against the frame.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:41 PM   #40
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Name: Fred
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Washington
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Use bolts. At some point someone will want to unscrew things again.

I used stainless steel bolts, but I ran into problems with metal seizing. See:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-up-51193.html

Switched to galvanized. Due to cost and availability issues, I ended up using regular hex bolt heads and a large fender washer.
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