New Scamp Owner

[mayadrew1]

Hi,
We just bought a 1977 Scamp 13 and it has the same door issue that many have posted about. There is a gap at the bottom and it does not fit tight to the trailer. I just ordered some new hinges and was going to just replace them but it seems like there could be a lot of other causes. Has anyone fixed this with just replacing the hinges? Is there a risk to replacing the hinges if it is other issues that are causing the gap?
Thanks!
Nathan

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by mayadrew1

I just ordered some new hinges and was going to just replace them but it seems like there could be a lot of other causes. Has anyone fixed this with just replacing the hinges? Is there a risk to replacing the hinges if it is other issues that are causing the gap?
Thanks! Nathan

Welcome to the group, usually the gap is is caused by the door losing its curve. Mine has not yet started to do it but I'm sure it will some day. I have thought that I would adapt a couple of screen door turnbuckles top to bottom to pull it back in place. I know of one Boler owner that did something like this. I fear that letting it rain on the inside of the door will hasten the damage process by getting the inner wood wet in the door.

[mayadrew1]

Originally Posted by AC0GV

Welcome to the group, usually the gap is is caused by the door losing its curve. Mine has not yet started to do it but I'm sure it will some day. I have thought that I would adapt a couple of screen door turnbuckles top to bottom to pull it back in place. I know of one Boler owner that did something like this. I fear that letting it rain on the inside of the door will hasten the damage process by getting the inner wood wet in the door.

Thanks for responding! I will look into that fix.

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by mayadrew1

Thanks for responding! I will look into that fix.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...do=file&id=211

[NOD]

Before you mess with the hinges, read this thread. I had what sounds like the same problem you describe on my 1977 13' Scamp and the problem is not the door at all, but the shell and how it is attached to the frame around the door. After doing the repair on the shell, my door fits perfectly.

[JamesML]

G'day: I assume the 77 Scamp was built off Boler moulds, and would therefore have similar problems as my 76 Boler.
Replacing the hinges may solve part of the problem, and at least will cause no harm. During hinge replacement you may find the mounting holes are enlarged, which can be repaired with fibreglass fibres in Bondo. I have also used the turnbuckle approach, which also helped somewhat--from the centre of the door, not the top, so as not to disturb the top curvature if things fit well there.
I also found that some of the problem was also caused by frame sag due to the too-light guage of the original frame design. In my case this was alleviated by the new, heavy duty frame, required by catastrophic frame failure.
Also, if the structures are similar, you may also find that the bottom curvature of the body is partly to blame. The body weight is carried by the flat floor boards being cantilevered beyond the frame rails, allowing the floor to sag at the perimeter, particularly by the door, and the body shell itself to sag due to the unsupported inward curvature at the bottom. The closet walls do not entirely eliminate this problem, particularly on the opposite door jamb, which may also have sagged at the bottom. I solved this on the new frame with extended mounting tabs, which also eliminated the useless sheet-metal screws of the original mounting system. May not completely solve all of the problems, but helps.

[Doc.Kev]

They lose the curve. I've had 3 Scamps, fixed 3 doors. Had a Casita with straight door - no problem. In all my cases, water got inside the door and I had to cut into the door, clean out the soaked OSB, replace with better materials & re-glass the door. IDK if your door has the same problems, but it can be fixed.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Doc.Kev

They lose the curve. I've had 3 Scamps, fixed 3 doors. Had a Casita with straight door - no problem. In all my cases, water got inside the door and I had to cut into the door, clean out the soaked OSB, replace with better materials & re-glass the door. IDK if your door has the same problems, but it can be fixed.

...which points to the prevention.

As soon as you get a Scamp, pull the door window, seal the cut thoroughly, and reinstall the window. Won't help the OP, but it might help someone else avoid this doable but messy repair.

[JamesML]

G'day again. Yes, I agree, the door itself does tend to straighten out over time, particularly at the bottom curve. Cold flow due to weight. My Boler door did not have such water ingress problem, but did have some straightening, corrected by turnbuckle tension wires.

However, in my case, the majority of the problems were caused by the other issues I discussed, all of which contributed--verified by the measurements and results obtained on the frame replacement. Other articles in this thread have also touched on the shell distortion occurring.
When the shell was remounted, I had more than one inch of centre sag, front to rear, on the door side, and close to 1/2 inch sag due to cantilever force. The reinforcement of the hinge side also helped. Still far from perfect but acceptable with some added gasketing.

[mayadrew1]

Great info and thank you for all of the responses. Seems like it could be lots of issues. The hinges are definitely bent so will start there and then look into the more complicated fixes.

[Lydia W]

I have the same issue with my 1975 13 footer. I also ordered new hinges, but after putting them on, the door didn't line up correctly. The new hinges are not the same size as the old (original) hinges, so i put the old ones back on. My door takes in water and that seemed to add to the loss of curve = gap at bottom of door. I drilled a couple of tiny holes in the bottom of the door to let water drain out and the curve seems to be much better = smaller gap. I should reseal the area around the small door window, but haven't had the time to tackle it ... yet! Welcome and enjoy your Scamp!!!

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by mayadrew1

Great info and thank you for all of the responses. Seems like it could be lots of issues. The hinges are definitely bent so will start there and then look into the more complicated fixes.

I'd be surprised if the cast aluminum hinge body could bend. It would break instead. I do have a vague memory that the top and bottom are slightly different. Maybe that's what you're noticing. Maybe they were accidentally reversed at some point.

Definitely pull them and determine whether the holes might be wallowed out.

Definitely replace the "guts" (bolt, ball, spring, and nut, available from Scamp or- better quality- at campingtreasures.com, run by a forum member).

Definitely install the new rib-style door seal.

Definitely punch holes in the bottom of the thick part and investigate the water infiltration problem.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Lydia W

I have the same issue with my 1975 13 footer. I also ordered new hinges, but after putting them on, the door didn't line up correctly. The new hinges are not the same size as the old (original) hinges, so i put the old ones back on.

Here's what the Scamp website says:
"Includes two aluminum hinges.
These replacement hinges can be used for all size trailers from 1971 to 2017. Arm spacing is lengthened allowing for a rubber door seal. Some early trailers had a different hole pattern and new bolt openings may need to be drilled."