Adding a furnace to a Scamp 13 with big bed

[DogHaus]

Hello, I am going to look at a Scamp for sale that appears to have everything I want except for a furnace. My previous Scamp (2005) had a furnace but little else
1. Wondering how complex is adding a furnace after the fact? I’ve been searching the archives and see some have installed a Propex furnace underneath, but I think a regular, noisy camper furnace will be fine for us. Hubby was also wondering if there is any heating system that uses recirculating hot water.
2. How well does the heat strip on an ac work? I’m not sure whether it has one yet. There is a red knob on the ac that implies heat.
Thanks,
Heidi in NH

[Jon in AZ]

Heat strip works fine, but only if you have shore power. In that situation you might find a small ceramic cube heater at floor level is quieter and provides more even heat.

Factory furnace is installed under the sink, so you'll give up most of the under-galley storage in the big bed configuration. That would be the biggest reason in my mind to choose the Propex over the Suburban. Cost is the drawback, of course, and perhaps availability.

I don't know anything about the water-based heating systems other than they are popular in the van community and are usually designed to take advantage of the chassis fuel source. Water adds some winterization complexity. Does the trailer already have a water heater? Layout 1 or 2?

[AC0GV]

Originally Posted by DogHaus

2. How well does the heat strip on an ac work? I’m not sure whether it has one yet. There is a red knob on the ac that implies heat. Thanks,
Heidi in NH

It works great for taking the chill off in the morning, but mine (and most) has no thermostat. It is on until you turn it off.

[Eddie Longest]

For the older Suburban.
1.Add a 12v fuse and run 12V to furnace location.
2. Install thermostat and run 12v from thermostat to the furnace location.
3. Prep. cabinet for install of furnace, the rear usually sits on the wheel well on a 1x2.
4. Make a mock-up out of wood of the furnace bottom and rear. On the rear mark and drill 1/4" pilot holes for you air inlet and exhaust. (Drawings in your furnace manual.)
5. Slide your mock-up in place where you want the furnace to set with the rear against the shell and drill two 1/4" pilot holes in the shell.
6. With a hole saw on the outside drill the holes for the air intake and exhaust.
7. Install and seal the intake/ exhaust fitting to the shell.
8. 4 wires are needed to connect the furnace, (Step 1&2) a 4-pin trailer plug works great for this.
9 Connect to your gas line. Sometimes you can replace a 3-way T with a 4-way fitting and run gas line to front of furnace.
10. slide furnace in cabinet. Connect wires and gas line.
11. Secure furnace and install grille.

[DogHaus]

Thanks for the step by step! We did buy the Scamp. Now for a little work!

[Dan Meyer]

How cold are you planning on being out camping? In all but the coldest weather, a 1500 watt electric heater will take care of your needs.



--Dan Meyer

[DogHaus]

Not past mid November in New England. I agree a small electric heater should be adequate when I have shore power. Ideally and eventually I want to be able to be untethered though.
For now a small electric heater is the plan. I have a dog, so the heater will need to sit on the counter. I have such a tiny amount of floor space.