Adding 12 volt dc switches in a Scamp 13. - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-19-2021, 05:00 PM   #1
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
California
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Adding 12 volt dc switches in a Scamp 13.

I like to be able to switch off particular segments of the DC power in my 2021 Scamp 13. It has a couple things that draw power, like the back up camera, and others that glow pretty brightly at night (e.g.,the voltmeter). So I sometimes pull fuses to turn those things off. Switches (in series with particular fuses) would be much more convenient. I was hoping to get some advice as to how to approach that. For example, do I have to work behind the panel through the hatch in the rear seat? Or can I unfasten the dc distribution panel and pull it forward to access things? Any advice on how to approach accessing and adding switches to segments of the 12 volt dc system would be most welcome and appreciated.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:15 PM   #2
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Name: zack
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Are these brown things connectors? Is that a possible place to put a switch? Can you take them apart (disconnect the wires) and then use them again? Thanks very much.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:27 PM   #3
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New Hampshire
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Those are splices. They connect 2 wires without having to solder them together. Don't mess with them. If you take them apart, the odds are you won't be able to reuse them. Besides they are designed to only splice a single wire to another. If you want to remove them and hook up the wires, you will have to come up with a different method of splicing the 2 wires to the one.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:51 PM   #4
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
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Looks like taps to me.. they attach the end of one white (ground) wire to a straight run of another white wire. I have reused them many times.. you pry the hinged plastic part open, carefully pull out the metal tap, and remove the wires.
But these are also prone to failure. The way they work is that the metal tab inside has a slot that when pushed over the wire cuts the insulation and then the metal makes contact with the wire inside. If your lucky it only cuts the insulation and not any of the strands of wire. Its a kludgy system but widely used because its so quick. I prefer three way crimp connectors:


As for a switch.. why bother.. cut the wire that controls what you what to control and put the switch inline at a convenient location.
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Old 05-20-2021, 03:32 PM   #5
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
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Originally Posted by gordon2 View Post
Looks like taps to me.. they attach the end of one white (ground) wire to a straight run of another white wire. I have reused them many times.. you pry the hinged plastic part open, carefully pull out the metal tap, and remove the wires.
But these are also prone to failure. The way they work is that the metal tab inside has a slot that when pushed over the wire cuts the insulation and then the metal makes contact with the wire inside. If your lucky it only cuts the insulation and not any of the strands of wire. Its a kludgy system but widely used because its so quick. I prefer three way crimp connectors:


As for a switch.. why bother.. cut the wire that controls what you what to control and put the switch inline at a convenient location.
Thanks a lot. For the rear camera, I am not sure which wires to cut. It is really difficult to tell which wires go to the camera,
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Old 05-20-2021, 04:18 PM   #6
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Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
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if you cant trace the wiring but think one of these go to the camera then it might be a reasonable idea to remove these, one at a time. And then see if the camera is off. Best to use new one to replace the one you remove. Better yet to use a better connection method. With two or more taps so close a buss bar might be better (on the ground side only). If its at the back of the trailer then one or more might well be for the signals or running lights.
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Old 05-20-2021, 04:58 PM   #7
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Thanks Gordon. Are there any particular switches you would recommend? The wire associated with the "rear of trailer" fuse, is a bit heavier gauge than I expected. (And it is a 20 amp fuse.) I think I will just put a switch on the black wire associated with that fuse (which does include the back-up camera). I probably underestimated the power that the lights in the trailer draw? Or maybe they just like large wire gauge for mechanical strength? (The backup camera itself only draws 0.4 amps (but it does that 24/7 as it is now).
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Old 05-20-2021, 04:59 PM   #8
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Name: zack
Trailer: scamp 13
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Originally Posted by Alex Adams View Post
Those are splices. They connect 2 wires without having to solder them together. Don't mess with them. If you take them apart, the odds are you won't be able to reuse them. Besides they are designed to only splice a single wire to another. If you want to remove them and hook up the wires, you will have to come up with a different method of splicing the 2 wires to the one.
Thanks Alex. I won't mess with those.
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Old 05-21-2021, 08:14 PM   #9
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Name: Darrell
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Zack sc
"Scotch loc" connectors should be named short makers due to corrosion down the road. If you haven't already guessed many of us don't like them. I'm a solder and seal once kind of guy vs use of them.... Blasting things I've had to rewire to many things due to them over the years that and someone using dang housing electrical wire nuts on 12 v stuff.��
If it was me I might install a switch panel or just keep pulling certain fuzes as needed
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Old 05-22-2021, 08:25 PM   #10
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Name: zack
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Originally Posted by Darrell in Al View Post
Zack sc
"Scotch loc" connectors should be named short makers due to corrosion down the road. If you haven't already guessed many of us don't like them. I'm a solder and seal once kind of guy vs use of them.... Blasting things I've had to rewire to many things due to them over the years that and someone using dang housing electrical wire nuts on 12 v stuff.��
If it was me I might install a switch panel or just keep pulling certain fuzes as needed
Thanks!
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:05 PM   #11
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrell in Al View Post
Zack sc
"Scotch loc" connectors should be named short makers due to corrosion down the road. If you haven't already guessed many of us don't like them. I'm a solder and seal once kind of guy vs use of them.... Blasting things I've had to rewire to many things due to them over the years that and someone using dang housing electrical wire nuts on 12 v stuff.��
If it was me I might install a switch panel or just keep pulling certain fuzes as needed
Ditto on the solder, do it once, do it right!
I also like the switch panel idea, in a closet, cupboard or inconspicuous place to monitor and control all electrical functions including solar panels, batteries etc.
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Old 05-26-2021, 12:35 PM   #12
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Shopping
Colorado
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Originally Posted by zack sc View Post
I like to be able to switch off particular segments of the DC power in my 2021 Scamp 13. It has a couple things that draw power, like the back up camera, and others that glow pretty brightly at night (e.g.,the voltmeter). So I sometimes pull fuses to turn those things off. Switches (in series with particular fuses) would be much more convenient. I was hoping to get some advice as to how to approach that. For example, do I have to work behind the panel through the hatch in the rear seat? Or can I unfasten the dc distribution panel and pull it forward to access things? Any advice on how to approach accessing and adding switches to segments of the 12 volt dc system would be most welcome and appreciated.
Is there an on/off switch on the rear camera display? If so, would turning it off cut the power use?

Chris
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Old 07-05-2021, 06:02 AM   #13
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Name: Natalie
Trailer: ford
mexico
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I had to replace the Transfer switch in my Motor home and I decided to go with the Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch. It has a lot of pros: ideal for 50-amp RV electrical systems, generator-priority design for better efficiency, Advanced time delay mechanism for improved safety,...
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Old 07-10-2021, 05:21 AM   #14
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Name: Natalie
Trailer: ford
mexico
Posts: 130
I had to replace the Transfer switch in my Motor home and I decided to go with the Progressive Dynamics PD52V Transfer Switch. It has a lot of pros: ideal for 50-amp RV electrical systems, generator-priority design for better efficiency, Advanced time delay mechanism for improved safety,...
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