Ripping Out the Wall Covering on a Scamp 13: What Do I Replace it With?

[Frank R]

NOTE: This is a reply to my post here:https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...amp-98439.html

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

If you gut the trailer, provide temporary support for the shell, or it will sag, bulge at the middle, and the door won’t fit right. A 2x4 wedged between squares of plywood will do.

All of the interior cabinetry serves to stabilize the shell, but the closet next to the door is the most critical. Whatever you do with the interior, you might want to keep that piece.

The walls are not covered in mouse fur. It is more like an automobile leather material, like Naugahyde. It may have been painted white. Right now it is covered in mildew and has to go. I plan on pulling it off; probably held on with rubber cement. I think it is original because I see it on the walls when I open the cabinets. I would prefer not to remove the cabinets; I might be able to trim around them and remove it in pieces.

I saw an article where a guy sprayed the walls with Raptor liner (truck bed liner). Are there downsides to this? My wife does not like the idea of a fabric on the wall because it can easily hold mold and mildew.

What are my other options? Can I just paint the rough fiberglass when I paint the exterior? What about textured rollers and paint? Any fabric coverings that don't hold mildew?

[Jon in AZ]

Truck bed liner provides no thermal insulation, sound deadening, or condensation control. Most have a rough texture that traps dirt. I’ve had trucks with bed liner, and it’s never what you’d call “inside clean,” and it’s really tough on bare skin. I would not recommend it, nor just paint for some of the same reasons.

If your wife prefers a smooth, washable surface, the original Ensolite is irreplaceable, and your best bet is to save it. Many have gotten amazing results with some elbow grease. Scrub, disinfect, reattach any loose sections or bubbles, caulk seams and fill gaps, prime, and paint. Old threads have specific product recommendations. This approach does not require disassembling the interior.

Regarding “rat fur,” the carpet-style marine headliner used in newer Scamps is non-absorbent. It can be vacuumed, spot cleaned with carpet cleaner, or steam cleaned as needed, and it does not hold mildew. You can buy shorter napped versions online. It can go right over the old Ensolite (after you thoroughly clean it of course) instead of paint. That would be my own first choice, but it does require disassembling the interior.

[Frank R]

Thanks Jon; I had not considered that.

So that covering is called Ensolite?

I have two bubbles and one spot that is peeling away.

You recommendations, although a lot of work, would still be easier.

What type of paint is recommended?

Maybe I can put that mildewcide additive that is used in bathroom paint.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Frank R

Thanks Jon; I had not considered that.

So that covering is called Ensolite?

I have two bubbles and one spot that is peeling away.

You recommendations, although a lot of work, would still be easier.

Replacing Ensolite is not a good idea. Ensolite is a closed cell foam that is covered by white vinyl. It is as immortal as fibreglass. No amount of mold is a problem. Take a look at this thread that I posted:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...now-61473.html

The roof of this trailer was collapsed for at least two years. The whole interior was soaked, including several sleeping bags that were on the floor.

After several treatments of 50% bleach and 50% water, (no scrubbing) the mold disappeared. However, the trailer smelled like bleach for about a year. The Ensolite was fine.

[Jon in AZ]

“…as immortal as fiberglass.” What a great turn of phrase!

[Frank R]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

After several treatments of 50% bleach and 50% water, (no scrubbing) the mold disappeared. However, the trailer smelled like bleach for about a year. The Ensolite was fine.

Thanks for the link. I feel much better about my Scamp now.

I saw the post where liquid TSP followed by Conchrobium would work. I already have both. No bleach smell. Nice.

Hmmm... has anyone used a pressure sprayer to clean out the INTERIOR? It would generate a lot of water for sure...., not good for the floor.

[kenbmcg]

Originally Posted by Frank R

Thanks for the link. I feel much better about my Scamp now.

I saw the post where liquid TSP followed by Conchrobium would work. I already have both. No bleach smell. Nice.

Hmmm... has anyone used a pressure sprayer to clean out the INTERIOR? It would generate a lot of water for sure...., not good for the floor.

we have a 1987 Scamp 19. very mildewed. we steam cleaned the Ensolite, thorough wash, and sprayed all over with Concrodium....no mold or mildew returned. hope this helps.

[John in Michigan]

The "two bubbles" in your ensolite could be filled with water caused by current or previous leaks in rivets, etc.

[parmm]

The whole key to preventing mold and mildew is stopping water leaks and keeping the inside of your trailer dry. When sleeping inside a fiberglass trailer, it is next to impossible to keep it dry. You need good ventilation and dry heat. You can not get dry heat out of the propane furnaces supplied by the trailer manufacturers, but there are after market options.

[Jon in AZ]

Not sure what you mean by "dry heat." Modern RV furnaces, whether ducted or direct discharge (like the small Suburban in my Scamp), are forced air units with a sealed combustion chamber. Combustion air is drawn from outside, and all combustion by-products, including water vapor, are exhausted outside. There is no intermingling of cabin air and combustion air.

Condensation can still be an issue due to human respiration, which also emits water vapor as a by-product. Maintaining a small amount of ventilation even on a cold night is enough to prevent it from becoming a problem with four people in our 13' Scamp. We get a little on the windows but none on the rat fur walls or ceiling.