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Old 08-05-2014, 09:38 PM   #1
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EggCamper Internal Measurements

Has anyone ever put together a drawing with the internal measurements for the eggcamper?

The ones I'd like to get is the width of the cabinets down both sides. I'd also like to get the height, width and depth of the cabinet the AC is in.

The size of the large closet. I need the depth from the front face to the back at both the deepest part on the left side of the closet and the depth 21" from the left side. Also the height from the bottom to the top of the inside.

The height and depth of the upper cabinets.

Thanks
John
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:37 PM   #2
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John, Not meaning to ignore your request. Happy to help. Just can't get to it until this weekend. Stay tuned....
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Old 08-08-2014, 12:21 AM   #3
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No problem, I figured not much would happen till people had some free weekend time so I thank you for doing it.

Could you also add the distance from the top of the galley to the bottom of the cabinet above it?

Thanks
John
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Old 08-09-2014, 10:32 AM   #4
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John, I have a few measurements for you. I forgot to take a few, so I'll have to go back and get those.

First of all, remember that the outer shell is curved, so measurements from inside flat surfaces can change quickly depending on what part of the curved outer shell you are measuring to.

If one of your interests is upgrading to a larger 29" x 21" x 21" refrigerator, I think you can make it fit two ways - by enlarging the hole where the current fridge is, and by mounting it in the entry closet. The cabinet where the factory fridge is located is 22" deep from backsplash to front, but underneath the cabinet, you get another 2" under the cabinet going all the way to the outer shell. That cabinet is 33" high. The wheel well is not a problem. Even if the fridge went all the way to the floor, there would be about a 1" space between it and the wheel well. The problem is the drain from the sink. It comes down the inside wall of the cabinet to near the floor, does a 90 degree, goes about 6" toward the front of the camper, then does a 90 degree down to the gray water tank. That last 90 degree elbow ends up under the fridge. So you can't go all the way to the floor unless you do something to relocate the sink drain line. Having said that, you can still go about 4.5" further down before hitting the drain piping, and you can go about 1.5" further up (need to re-route an electrical wire, but that shouldn't be a problem at all). So all told, by my measurements, you should be able to just fit a 29" tall fridge in there simply by cutting the current hole a little larger at the top and bottom. Again, the wheel well should not be a problem - just the sink drain down into the holding tank. I hope to get you a picture before the end of the weekend.

As for the entry closet, again the curve of the outer shell is what you have to watch out for. The door opening itself is 18" x 41". It's 6" from the back wall of the shower out to the near edge of the door and so 24" (18+6) to the other door edge. At that first edge, the closet is 24" deep. Coming out 21" from the shower wall, it's 21" deep. And if you go to the far door edge (24"), it's about 20". Again, the curve of the shell starts taking room away from you as you go up or down from center and as you go further away from the shower wall. But if you cut the opening back closer to the shower, and keep it in the center of the curve, it looks like it should fit pretty easily. At worst, you might have to add maybe a 1/2" spacer to keep the back from rubbing against the insulate layer. Oh, and there is an inside vent cap for the shower drain that you'd likely have to shorten about 6" or so, but again, not a big deal.

Finally, as for the overhead cabinets. The bottom of the cabinets are about 12" deep. They are about 12" tall at the cabinet door. But there is a really sharp curvature of the roof from top of the cabinet to back, so you lose a lot of storage space, especially interior height, the further back into the cabinet you go. I hope that makes sense.

I hope that helps. I'll try to get you measurements on the A/C cabinet and some pictures before the end of the weekend.
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:49 PM   #5
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John, More measurements and some photos.

It's 27 3/4" from galley surface up to the bottom of the overhead cabinet.
Where the microwave and bracket are located, they take up 10 3/4" leaving a 17" opening below the microwave to galley surface.

The A/C cabinet is 24 1/2" deep and 23" wide.
The A/C unit itself is only about 12" deep, leaving about a 12" empty space behind the A/C unit. Some owners have converted that space to storage with outside entry.
The A/C unit draws air intake from under the floor of the small closet behind the shower wall on the street side, which in turn draws air through a screened vent in the floor under the closet space.

The entry closet is 55" from false floor (false floor opens to electrical power center) to hanger rail with a few inches above that for using hangers.

I'll try to include 4 pictures with this then send two more in a separate post.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC07496.jpg   DSC07499.jpg  

DSC07500.jpg   DSC07507.jpg  

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Old 08-09-2014, 12:59 PM   #6
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John, I still have to figure out how to put individual captions with each photo, but here's what you're looking at in the four previous photos:
1) Outside of fridge showing how much further down and up you can enlarge the current hole to fit a taller fridge.
2) Behind fridge - again, wheel well is not a problem going further down, sink drain pipe is.
3) A/C unit compartment from outside. Compartment is also a seat for the side dinette.
4) From inside small street side closet, looking down through a gap. On right is intake fins for A/C unit, on left (lighter area) is space between back of A/C and outside vent for heat exhaust (used by some for extra storage). The round thing in the middle is the screened vent for fresh air to come into the A/C air intake area (I think there are actually two of these, but you can only see the second one from under the camper). That closet subfloor area is also where the shore power cord is stored with a small access door for it to the outside.

I hope that all makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions. Two more photos to follow.
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Old 08-09-2014, 01:03 PM   #7
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John,

One of the attached photos shows the entry closet with the vent cap for the shower drain. The other shows the shape of the overhead cabinets - note the curvature of the top as it rounds down to the back.
Attached Thumbnails
DSC07501.jpg   DSC07503.jpg  

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Old 08-09-2014, 01:08 PM   #8
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John, Let me know if something I posted doesn't make sense or if you have any more questions. Bottom line - I think you have two options for putting in a larger refrigerator: 1) enlarging the space where the factory fridge is or 2) putting it in the entry closet. But both will be a close fit, so don't fully trust my measurements. If you get serious about this mod, you really need to get inside an EggCamper and take your own measurements and do your own calculations to be certain. Dale
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Old 08-09-2014, 02:51 PM   #9
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Unless it's been changed back the spare tire is now in the entry closet and not on the back bumper as mine is.
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rgrugg View Post
Unless it's been changed back the spare tire is now in the entry closet and not on the back bumper as mine is.
Ya, and I don't know why they did that. It wastes a lot of nice storage space inside the camper, it seems like it would be hard for a petite lady traveling alone to get it out of there if they had a flat, and it seems like it would add a rubber smell to the inside cabin air every time that closet door is opened. Do you notice the smell in your camper? Anyway, a mounting bracket to put the spare back on the rear bumper (the common 4x4 stinky-slinky storage bumper like on ours) is on sale at Camping World for $19.97. If it were me, unless there is some serious safety issue that has come up that I don't know about, I'd buy the mounting bracket, mount the spare back on the rear bumper again, and free up the closet to be all closet again. Just saying....
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:56 AM   #11
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Thanks Dale, that a hell of a lot of good information.

John
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:11 AM   #12
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Dale, Problems developed over time with the rear bumper location. The square tube bumper starts to rust and the thin walls of the bumper tube is easily crushed and eventually fails. Then, the tire mounting bracket twists the entire length of the square tube bumper down to a 45 degree or greater angle and the tire probably drags on the ground (or the entire bumper et al falls off). I reinforced the rear bumper on my (recently sold, sorely missed) EggCamper to prevent this from happening. I know others that have done the same. I believe that if the bumper is sufficiently reinforced, the problem is avoided and the tire can be safely mounted on the bumper, leaving the closet for storage.

I agree that there's room for a larger fridge. I'd always thought that when the factory installed unit died, that I'd install something larger. But, I really liked the 12 v compressor fridge... very efficient.

Ron
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
John, I still have to figure out how to put individual captions with each photo, ...

Here's one way. Before you type your post, scroll down to "manage attachments." Upload up to 4 images. Then type your caption for the first picture and use the paper clip icon to drag and drop the first picture. Repeat for the remaining pictures, alternating between text and images. At that point I think you may be able to return to "manage attachments" and do 4 more. I've never needed to.


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:02 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Here's one way. Before you type your post, scroll down to "manage attachments." Upload up to 4 images. Then type your caption for the first picture and use the paper clip icon to drag and drop the first picture. Repeat for the remaining pictures, alternating between text and images. At that point I think you may be able to return to "manage attachments" and do 4 more. I've never needed to. Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
Thanks, Jon. I'll give that a try next time.... Dale
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ron F View Post
Dale, Problems developed over time with the rear bumper location. The square tube bumper starts to rust and the thin walls of the bumper tube is easily crushed and eventually fails. Ron
Thanks, Ron. Does the tubular rear bumper seems pretty robust. Does it rust from the inside out due to moisture from the "stinky slinky" and rain splashing through the vent holes in the rubber end caps? I'd be happy to store the slinky elsewhere (the previous owner stored it in a heavy duty plastic bag on the floor of the shower) and plug those end vent holes if that will help preserve the bumper as a location for the spare tire. Dale
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Old 08-16-2014, 03:53 AM   #16
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Dale,
Yeah, it looks beefy, but it's not. It rusts from the inside, then the wall fails. And, if you store your stinky slinky inside the bumper, the rust will chafe the hose and cause it to leak after a while, and then it'll really be stinky and messy. I recommend the PVC storage tube that you can get at most RV places. They're a bit pricey, but you'll forget where the extra $ went long before the stink goes away :-). I installed a piece of 4" PVC pipe to store my slinky, but it was too small for some brands of waste hose. I was lucky to find one that just barely fit.

Don't "cheap out" on this one. Get the bumper reinforced and don't store your hose inside.

Ron
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:31 PM   #17
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John, After a closer look, I'm doubting if you can fit a 29" x 21" x 21" fridge in the entry closet without it sticking out into the entry area 2-3". I was still curious and had a little time this evening, so I took some cardboard and tape and made a little mock-up box that was 30" x 21" x 21", and it did not quite fit back into the closet. So question, when you say the fridge you're looking at is 20.5" deep, is that total depth, with say 2" sticking out the front and 18.5" extending back into the cabinet? If that's the case, then it still might work. But if you need to have 20.5" clearance behind the cabinet wall, then it looks to me like it won't fit. And even if it does fit, it will really compromise your ability to get in behind the fuse/breaker box where all the main wiring is. You'd probably have to remove the fridge to do any serious service to your core electrical system. Dale
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:18 PM   #18
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were dimensions of the bed from wall to isle given? also if from edge of bed to front of a/c,and a/c to fridge be given. I am trying to figure out if I can mod a fold out bed in that space before I make a move on a purchase.....planning a mod before the egg, but this way I am one step ahead on plans
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Old 03-04-2016, 08:41 AM   #19
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Crystal, I'm not sure what you're asking. The A/C and frig are on opposite sides of the center aisle (A/C street side, frig curb side). Please let me know just what it is you're trying to do, and I'll get you some measurements. Dale
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:13 PM   #20
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Crystal, I'm not sure what you're asking. The A/C and frig are on opposite sides of the center aisle (A/C street side, frig curb side). Please let me know just what it is you're trying to do, and I'll get you some measurements. Dale
The "open" floor area. I am trying to see if I can do a mod similar to the drawer under the bed mod. someone did (2 drawers that pull out and have totes under the bed). I want to have one door open for a platform unit that comes out directly alongside the seats that will have drop legs to allow a quick "2nd" bed option for 2 vs having the seats be a singe bed. So very similar mod but with the added extra bed enclosed that can easily push back into the under bed storage. I see things like murphy beds etc that really have me curious about installing something similar. I was thinking depending on the bed depth to wall, there could be a drop down door that hides the cot platfrom which pulls out and then the legs can fold out and lock in place. If you don't need it, it will store inside itself contained. Then I figured having a drawer directly below that will a roll up mat similar to how you would roll a yoga mat to lay out across both to make one bigger bed, somehow connecting it via the table and the cot with a latch or buckle. I realize that the bed will likely cover the a/c unit a bit, so we'll just have to have a fan blowing the cool air from low to high. Most of the time I wouldn't need this, but again, a quick option in a pinch when we need the room.

I know egg owners told me there is lots of room in there and they have put a cot in there, but I wanted to try and build one in if the width is right. I am just trying to research and look for ideas before going forward.
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