My best add-on: Air conditionned in my U-haul CT-13 - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:51 AM   #21
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Name: Dan
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13 1985
Quebec
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I think that the black circle in the middle of the AC mounting plate is the drain.

Yes this is the drain hole. However, I needed to modify the A/C accordingly because these type of cooling units have an internal reservoir that direct the water directly to the condensor (exterior side) fan. When the water hit the fan, the water splashes in the condensor and evaporates. BUT when humidity is high, this system cannot handle the extra water and overflow outside. In a window application, this is not a problem. But with an enclosed application like here, it is. So I modified the inside A/C reservoir in a way that ALL water is directed in a home made drain. And I did a outside drain directly under this homemade drain in the A/C. I give you a picture of this A/C mod. At the same time, I did another modification in the unit. Because these A/C are not designed to support heavy road bumps, I installed a bracket to support the compressor at the top to help reduce the vibrations that would otherwise be warmful for the fragile tubing going to the compressor. I also posted a picture of this compressor bracket.

Hope it help.

Dan
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P1070986.jpg   P1070988.jpg  

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Old 06-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #22
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Great explanation Dan. I didn't realize that they splashed the water onto the evaporator, but this explains some comments that I read in small AC reviews re water spraying out of the units.
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Old 07-03-2013, 10:48 AM   #23
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Did you air duct for the air in/out port on the fiberglass to the a/c unit?
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:59 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by tartosuc View Post
Did you air duct for the air in/out port on the fiberglass to the a/c unit?
I just installed an isolated styrofoam wall between the "IN" and "OUT" ports. In that way, the airflow coming from outside must pass by the A/C before it is exhausted outside by the "OUT" port. Hope it helps...
Dan
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:02 PM   #25
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Very impressive job! I agree I wish the manuf did a similar install of the ac unit.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:35 PM   #26
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Excelent job with alot of fore thought. Nows the time to buy another exact same unit and store it in the garage incase of future failure. With built in units you dont want to redesign in the future and these things are not getting any cheaper. Models are being redesigned every year or so and future changes with Freon/coolant are going to make manditory changes necessary.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:37 PM   #27
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Dan, these are great Mods! I love everything that you did. I am curious about your front dinette table, the leg and mounting. Also am curious about the back over bed wire shelf, it's mounting. I know this thread is about the wonderfully crafted air conditioner fit so ...
And you have made me decide to paint my cabinet doors also.
Thanks!
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #28
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Excelent job with alot of fore thought. Nows the time to buy another exact same unit and store it in the garage incase of future failure. With built in units you dont want to redesign in the future and these things are not getting any cheaper. Models are being redesigned every year or so and future changes with Freon/coolant are going to make manditory changes necessary.
Good idea, It may save a lot of work it it fail later.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:48 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by D Davis View Post
Dan, these are great Mods! I love everything that you did. I am curious about your front dinette table, the leg and mounting. Also am curious about the back over bed wire shelf, it's mounting. I know this thread is about the wonderfully crafted air conditioner fit so ...
And you have made me decide to paint my cabinet doors also.
Thanks!
Hello,

Thanks for your kind comments. The dinette table is attached to the fiberglass wall with a piano hinge screwed with the typical plastic insert on the wall side and normal wood screws on the table side (See pic). The leg is made of a 1" aluminium tubing (sold at any hardware store) and 2 homemade steel brackets (/ pics) (one for the foot and one for the table). I decided to make it inclined to give some freedom to our feet.

I am glad that I convinced you to pain your cabinet doors. I really like the change it made to my interior. The old yellowish original color did not fit with any color.

Dan
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Old 07-05-2013, 10:32 AM   #30
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Florida
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Thanks for the pics and narrative for the mods you have done on your CT-13. They inspired me to install a similar A/C in our CT-13. I bought a Daewoo 6000 btu from the local closeout store for $140 which I intend to start installing this weekend. I've already taken the cage off the unit to locate where I need to install the drain and dam. I hope to cut out the hole for the a/c and 6" vents today

The previous owners did a lot of their own mods which I am reversing due to their careless workmanship. I hope to post my progress.
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:01 PM   #31
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Vertical Deflector

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Originally Posted by Youhauler View Post
I had to make a vertical deflector because the only one on this little Danby unit was for horizontal position.
Great information on the installation of you A/C Unit. I am considering changing-out my 5000 BTU for an 8000 BTU unit.
I like the looks of your vertical deflector. Could you share your construction and materials used?

Thanks
Bob
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:35 AM   #32
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Great information on the installation of you A/C Unit. I am considering changing-out my 5000 BTU for an 8000 BTU unit.
I like the looks of your vertical deflector. Could you share your construction and materials used?

Thanks
Bob
Hi Bob,
the A/C deflector is simply made with a transparent in-wall vacuum tubing with 2 end caps cut to fit the job. It is attached to the A/C with a velcro strip.

Dan
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:27 AM   #33
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I have a 5000 watt but in my ParkLiner and with 98' and humid it doesn't make it super cool but makes it comfortable... maybe 1 day I will swap it for an 8000 but unit
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Old 07-07-2013, 01:56 PM   #34
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looks great love it.
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Old 07-07-2013, 04:06 PM   #35
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Air Deflector

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Originally Posted by Youhauler View Post
The A/C deflector is simply made with a transparent in-wall vacuum tubing with 2 end caps
Hi Dan,

Looks like another trip to Home Depot for endcaps & tubing. I have the velcro. I purchased a Frigidaire 8000 BTU unit today and will start the need modification and installation tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:05 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KossKlan View Post
Hi Dan,

Looks like another trip to Home Depot for endcaps & tubing. I have the velcro. I purchased a Frigidaire 8000 BTU unit today and will start the need modification and installation tomorrow.

Thanks,
Bob
Good move Bob. You wont regret it ...
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:37 AM   #37
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Hello, how do you vent the air conditioner hot air from the back of the unit?
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:46 PM   #38
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Hello, how do you vent the air conditioner hot air from the back of the unit?
Hello, there are two 6 inch holes in the outside wall for INLET and OUTLET. INLET take fresh air in the A/C and OUTLET exhaust hot air fron A/C outside.

Hope it answer your question.

Dan
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:49 AM   #39
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What do you think would happen if the fresh air port was not opened. Would it have a negative effect on the a/c performance? The camper is not entirely air tight and would most likely suck air in from other places. I would think by keeping the hatch closed would allow the camper to get cooler since it's mainly recirculating cool air without having to cool the warmer outside fresh air. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:32 AM   #40
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What do you think would happen if the fresh air port was not opened. Would it have a negative effect on the a/c performance? The camper is not entirely air tight and would most likely suck air in from other places. I would think by keeping the hatch closed would allow the camper to get cooler since it's mainly recirculating cool air without having to cool the warmer outside fresh air. Any thoughts?
Definitely. You need fresh air pulled in from outside and forced over the condenser to get efficient cooling inside. Otherwise, you'd be constantly exhausting cooled air and pulling in hot outside air.

This is how the "portable" roll around, one hose AC units work (and work poorly).
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